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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tribalmonkey, Dec 14, 2020.

  1. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    Sound like one of those old planes getting really to take off and go shoot down the evil Red Baron. :rolleyes:
     
    31hotrodguy and Tribalmonkey like this.
  2. sounds cool.
    buy a new air hose.
     
  3. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Haha! Yes, it is about time for a new air hose. On the list.
     
  4. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    All the windshield parts are ready for primer but it has been too cold lately to mess with paint. My wife and friends keep telling me to wait until it warms up and not to rush it. Without their pressure to wait it would probably be all back together with orange peel, finger prints,... ugh! IMG_5595.JPG
    Oh... and notice the new air hose.



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  5. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    All back together. Having a blast driving all over. IMG_5639.JPG IMG_5638.JPG IMG_5634.JPG IMG_5632.JPG


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  6. That car has a perfect late '40s look!
    Love it!
     
    Stogy, F-ONE, loudbang and 3 others like this.
  7. The cat seems to like it as well.:D
     
  8. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Yeah. Pete has to check everything out.


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  9. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 2,698

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    Times 2!!!


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  10. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Quick question. My rear driver side brake is starting to squeak pretty bad. I pulled the hub and checked everything out. Brake pads seem ok. I don’t see any rivets showing. I don’t see anything that is showing wear or metal on metal contact. Any ideas? Will new pads fix this?


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    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  11. I had a model A in my shop a couple years back that had a squeaky rear brake. the brake linings were about a month old. we had disconnected the rods one at a time to isolate the noise. then I started rebuilding every piece of that brake including all new bushings. we changed the drums over to the new cast[?] style . I would sand linings and it would be quiet but would start to squeak by the end of a test run. I even tried a spray on the linings that did work for a month or so. I think the new linings are just noisy.
     
  12. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    tb33anda3rd- Thanks. I just read through the thread. I’ll try some of the remedies. Sanding, chamfering, spraying... The brake that is squeaking is the one that was probably not really working when I got the car. Now that it’s been working awhile it has started squeaking. Sounds like metal to metal. Definitely takes some of the cool out of an old traditional style hot rod.


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  13. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    On a different note. My 17 year old boy learned to drive a manual transmission today using the model a. Spent some yard time going around the house and then out on the back roads. Lots of laughs and progress. We both had a blast. Certainly a day we will both remember.


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  14. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,330

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Look at the drum side of the brake shoes, on the edge. The noise might be a clearance issue between the shoe and the drum especially if the shoes lean out towards the drum on a break application.
    The other thing to check is the emergency brake shoes
    Looks like you are having fun and that's what it is all about!
     
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  15. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Thanks winduptoy. I’ll check for shoe clearance. I hope that is all it is.


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  16. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Quick question- new camshaft. If I were to replace the cam with something a little warmer (B cam?) what else do I need to do other than upgrade the cam gear? Will I have to do a valve adjustment?


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  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    New lifters should go on the cam. And for sure you will need to adjust the valves. Do they make adjustable lifters for A's, or would you need to grind the valve stems?
     
  18. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Thanks alchemy. I’ve never replaced a cam. Would like a warmer cam but not if it is above my skill level. Grinding valve stems seems like we’re at my limit.


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  19. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    http://www.handhantique.com/parts/parts.html

    These guys have a valve kit with adjustable lifters. They also sell cams. So it is kinda easy, but still requires general mechanical knowledge and accuracy. Not a weekend job unless you are really lucky and experienced.
     
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  20. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,330

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Snyders, Berts all sell adjustable lifters, springs and cams too. Yes, you want adjustable lifters. With a flatty banger, the cam is about the first thing to go in the engine after the lifters. The lifters are removed out the 'bottom' of the engine.
    So, you are looking at a project and one that isn't done so easily in the car. You have caught the banger fever and there is nothing wrong with that but a drug habit is more curable....
    Being that is the case, start looking for a second engine that you are going to hot rod so you can still get your 'fix' with the one that drives. Do the upgrades on the second engine and then swap it out....faster than knocking the one you want to be driving in the head...
    Post a 'what do I look for' in a used banger engine? question over on the monthly banger meet to get some guidance along with you might consider a local Model A club as a source for a spare engine lead...just be prepared, they are more 'purists' than hot rodders...you might catch grief for your 'messing up a perfectly good car' I know, you want to drive it, they just want to look at theirs and freak out at the mention of a dirt road....
     
  21. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Haha! Great words. I’ll start looking for a second Banger to ‘build’. I’m gonna need to sell some stuff soon my shop is getting full.


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  22. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    I’m also interested in finding a 39 transmission. I’ve gotten pretty good at the double clutching while downshifting but if I am going to start a second power train build I should add that to the list.
     
  23. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,330

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you find a B block to build, you have the option of going with later gears, synchro 2nd and 3rd in the 32 case.
    I have one that I just took out for a TK5 install that has an OD and an extra gear...it's a never ending quest for fast...and trying to beat the V8 flatheads


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  24. you might check with @manyolcars as I believe he runs a later transmission conversion that he has been known to rave about:)
     
    Tim, chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  25. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    This should keep me busy for awhile :)

    IMG_5685.JPG


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  26. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    With the new drop axle I think I am going to have to come up with a different shock mount solution. I’ve read and seen a lot of different configurations. What do you guys think is the best option? IMG_5689.JPG


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  27. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Moved my license plate up and as a byproduct covered up my old spare tire bracket holes. I used the existing holes. No drilling. IMG_5704.JPG IMG_5702.JPG


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  28. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 919

    Tribalmonkey
    Member

    Quick question - Mitchell Overdrive. If I installed one could I still use it if I decide later on down the road to go with a 39 trans or a flathead v8? Would I want to use it with a 39 trans or flathead? Trying to make decisions that are flexible and somewhat enduring.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2021
    31hotrodguy and chryslerfan55 like this.

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