Here's the deal I am looking to do a QE rear end on my RPU. I have a boxed A frame, a 48 ford rear end with split wishbones and I am using an open drive So any pics or suggestions on how do get `er done would just be fabulous.
I'm running Posie's quarter elliptical setup on my '34 truck. I'm using hairpins on it, and the ride is really good. The parts are excellent quality and the ride height is adjustable which makes it nice. The whole package is pretty thin profiled, so it leaves quite a bit of room under the bed.
I like!!!! I have built 3 1/4 ellip's on my rockcrawlers, but never on a rod. I was looking at doing this on the front. It seems to work pretty well. The only question is why the panhard? Why not the inverted 4 link? dima
here's a bunch more I have found on here using the search button, though only a few as nice as yours.
What springs are you guys using for this? Are there specific 1/4 lipstick springs? I am liking this idea more and more. Dima
some guys use the Posies Springs which are purpose built and some guys use trailer springs and others just cut buggy springs in half... there are a ton of posts on here with guys using them up front but not too many about them being used in the rear...
I ran a panhard to eliminate the chance of side travel since the rearend is just located with hairpins. You could make some brackets for the rear, but for the money, I just bought speedway's brackets for putting a transverse spring on top of the rearend. The radius on their brackets fits a 3" tube, so I just turned the bracket to face the spring. I used the actual mounting end of the bracket for the link to my friction shock.
TudorChevy, I like the set up and dig how you are using the Speedway brackets as the friction shock mounts as well...
Dave Gail, was the king of quarter eliptic spring setups, both front and rear. RIP. I have a pair running transversely under my Phaeton in the rear over the quickchange. From the back it just looks like a standard transverse buggy spring setup.
I did mine the cheapass way. 57 chevy rear springs cut in half. Stiff part to the front because of weight,other part to the rear. I did not use a shackle as I use the spring as a lower link with a tubing link up on the top for a leaf link rather than a four link. Angle the top link and you don't have to have a panard bar. May not be perfect but the price is right and it rides well .
My first was a set of springs made from a 40 Ford front. Used the springs on top and a bars on the bottom. Worked great, I see the car every year at the LARS with over a 100K on the speedo and still going strong. I have built several deuce chassis using the Posie spring kit with shackles and P&J ladder bars on the rear. They work and ride great!
I also used '57 Chevy wagon leaves cut in half. CE coilover brackets on the axle. It's not as clean as some here, but ride height is adjustable, as is the upper bar. I drove it for the first time at HCPU on Saturday, but it seems like it worked well. This picture is from initial mock up.... not completed, but you get the idea. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133842
I found this old thread doing a search and was wondering if anybody besides Posies is offering Quarter Elliptical Spring Kits? I have been giving it some thought for my 29 rpu
Made mine with everything I needed from Big R (Tractor Supply Co. is the same). All trailer springs, ended up only needing a couple brackets from Speedway. The trailer springs are the same rating and 1 3/4" wide w/3/4" eye just like the ones speed shops sell. Ended up doing the front and rear of my bucket for under 100 bucks!
When some guys back in the 70s were working with the 1/4 elliptic idea they used cut Pinto/Bobcat rear springs. Very cheap and spring rate was good for light roadsters and coupes.
I really like how 51gringo did it heres a link http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626876
It should be noted that if using a four bar or hairpin for locating the axle, the spring MUST have a movable shackle on one end. Otherwise, something will eventually break. When the spring deflects, it also straightens putting a bind in the suspension. Also, when using a spring as a suspension link with only one trailing arm on each side, pinion angle will change on bumps. Will it work? Yeah, but why not do it correctly and use 2 arms per side and a shackle on the spring?
can anyone help with the calculations of the top bars? I'm wanting to run the 1/4 ellipticals in the rear on triangulated 4 link. these are the specs on the spring. I'm also wanting to run the bars from center to th outside of the rear. does this create too much binding? 1-3/4" wide 17-3/4" overall length 15-5/8" eye to spring end
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