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Looking to buy a truck, but really need help/advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dragonashes, May 12, 2010.

  1. Leadsled RnR
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 273

    Leadsled RnR
    from CO

    Always avoid dealers...especially for older cars. Honestly, Ebay is pretty good to compare what people are willing to pay also, however, thats a national average rather than regional. Depending on when you have time, a buddy and myself may be able to show you around, and give you an idea of things to look for. PM if your interested.
  2. squigy
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 3,915

    from SO.FLO.

    Stay away from those rat rod hack up vehicles.
  3. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,844

    from trevose pa

  4. OldSub
    Joined: Aug 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,064

    Member Emeritus

    I've not kept receipts or really any total at all, its just a guess at the total I've spent including purchase.

    Too much really, but if you fix and upgrade as you go you'll end up spending money over time. Also mine is a rarer body style being a Suburban.

    It is also NOT for sale at twice that amount.

    It is daily driver capable and an example of one that satisfies what I understand your needs to be. I think your budget may be optimistic, at least if you expect to limit your cost over the long term.

    There is a '54 Chevy 3100 for sale in my neighborhood that I would buy if I needed another. I think it could be bought for less than $1000 and then another $1000 would get it on the road. This one is someone else's abandoned project and something like it is probably the cheapest way to get into a truck with some of the mods you really want in a driver. But you'd spend some time just making it road worthy.....

    I'd expect to spend more like $3000 or $4000 for one ready to drive every day and still expect to spend a little more to keep it that way.
  5. davidwilson
    Joined: Oct 8, 2008
    Posts: 595

    from Tennessee

    i know i'm going to get flamed for this, but think outside the box -get a late model S-10 pickup - lower it - strip the complete front end off (hood, fenders, splash panels, radiator support, bumper) install a '32 shell & grill, '65 mustang radiator & '32 headlights - strip the bed & bumper off & build a small bed the width of the frame rails - run big & little tires on steelies - drive the crap out of it every day! - sell the parts you took off the S-10
  6. That seems like an awful lot of.. modding? for a first timer lol. Not that it doesn't sound fun and seem like the end result would be fantastic. I just don't think I'd be capable of it at this point! Maybe in the future :)

  7. Don't worry, I'm not lookin to take away anyone else's baby ;)

    $5000 is more like my initial put into the car- purchase price. I understand I'll probably spend more in the long run-that's cool. You would with pretty much any car, new or old.I have on mine right now. Initially bought it for 4k and its had about 2k worth of work on it in the 4 years I've had it. Of course it was already 6 years old when I bought it and not well taken care of.
    But I'm excited for what you're telling me. I would be happy to spend 3-4k on one already ready to drive- if I can find one.
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  8. Have I been looking at any? Like I said, I'm still learning, so if I've picked out a bad vehicle (from what can be told from the ads) I'd like to know so I know what to stay away from.
  9. 50stude p/u
    Joined: Jul 14, 2009
    Posts: 169

    50stude p/u

    The popular trucks (chevys and fords) will be more expensive to start out with for a similar condition, but are easier to get parts for. I looked at chevys in similar price range that were crap before finding mine. Studebakers arnt that hard to get stuff for once you find the sources and they are cheap to get initially because they are unpopular. Studebaker used the same basic truck body stlye from 49-61, and the flathead 6 in them was put in everything. Besides, your profile pic is a 54-56 stude lol.

    As far as general things, truck drivetrains are fairly bulletproof as they were designed to haul things for indefinate periods of time. The bodys will be dented an rusty because they have been hauling things for an indefinate period of time.

    And yes they can be a pain in the ass to drive. Ive had to shift, steer around a corner, signal with my arm, and put on the brakes at the same time. Im not that coordinated.
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  10. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,538


  11. Yea, it is, but its actually just one of my shirts that I've done. I'm thinking more I'll go with a GMC or Chevy since they are apparently easier to find parts for, and this will be my first project.
  12. little skeet
    Joined: Jan 27, 2008
    Posts: 302

    little skeet
    from huston

    I think only one is a flatbed. If I remember correctly, it is a 1938 Ford. As for getting it to run. All I can tell you is they have been sitting there a long time. I bought the 1952 Nash Farina out of the row of cars that are there. The mice have ate the spark plug wires up and built nests in all of the vehicles. But remember these are getting very hard to find!
  13. I would say that the '53-'56 Ford F-100s might be worthy of your consideration as can buy virtually any part, including cabs and frames, doors and hoods, brand new. Almost any sheet metal piece is readily available; it's pretty easy to add power brakes to an existing truck; engine parts for both the flathead ('53) and Y-block ('54-'56) V8s are pretty easy to get, even from NAPA, and the six-cylinder as well; and, if you want to convert one to a more modern drivetrain, it's incredibly easy to do. There are a great many parts trucks out there as well.

    My understanding is that it's not quite as good parts-wise for the Chevrolets, but fairly close. Really depends on what kind of styling ya want.

    I would recommend that for your first truck you stay away from 3/4 ton and larger, for a couple of reasons- parts availability for one, bed length for another; there's a lot of subtle differences. For example, Fords of that vintage all use the same cab, F-100 to heavy truck; but the front fenders are different. F-100 fenders: easy to find. Large truck fenders: not so much. Given that you only have about 6-7 months, you don't want to be chasing unobtanium all that time. :)
  14. Yea, I was leaning more towards the 1/2 ton. And, yea, the least amount of unotanium chasing I have to do the better, lol :)
  15. Maybe if I had more time and resources to put into one, I'd get one of those. Thanks though

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