The most recent issue of Engine Builder magazine showed up at work today. In it is an article about modified stovebolt rear main seals. At the end of the article the author, Doc Frohmader, mentions a web site with more stovebolt tech. So, I checked out the site and found all kinds of useful information including a series of articles on building a 235 stroker. I appologize for plugging another site, but www.webrodder.com is worth checking out. Here is the link to the Engine Builder article on the rear main seal conversion. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/dptbnr.htm Reading through these articles has really got me thinking. I hope you guys find these sites as useful as I have.
Sorry about that, the Engine Builder link didn't work. Just go to www.enginebuildermag.com. Then click on the "Old Iron" link under the "December Columns & Departments" heading.
Cool. I just saw a block on the Bay for cheap but couldn't think of what I'd do with it. I still want to get the one in my car moving a little stronger.
Nothing replacing cubic inches, so if you have the $ and the means to get the 261, go for it!! The WebRodder series is a very informative series. a lot can also be done to the head to get it to flow better, so by combining a stroker bottom end and a modified top end, you'd have a (dare I say) flathead killer
This is an exelent repair for the 235-261 Chevy block. The other way to do it if you don't have a mill that will mount the block, is to turn down the crank flange sealing surface on a lathe to fit the next size lip seal. I did one for a shop some time ago and wrote it up for the 12 Port News. I think I remover .062 from the diameter. The shop owner told me that the lip seal he was using would fit in the rope seal groove with minor die grinder touch up. Not to sure what he ment about that. I saw some of his die grinder work on some rocker arms and would not let him in the building with a die grinder in hand. Still you might want to look into both methods.