I'm prepping to pull the body on my 1935 5W ford coupe so I can mount my rear axle brake/fuel lines & exhaust with less issues. Any good pics of the exhaust installed in the frame and what kind of mufflers used? Need to get an idea of bends to buy. Thanks Leon
On my 36, I ran fender well headers ( SBC) and ran the exhaust under the running boards and turned them out right before the wheel well. I wrapped the pipes and mufflers with that HEAT wrap stuff to keep HEAT damage to a minimum, worked out nice. Sorry no pics at this moment... Mitch.
I've got mine half way done. I'll post pics this weekend. Deciding whether to go over or under the Jag IRS.
This local 36 PU from 1979 had an OEM frame with a Jag IRS and blown SBC however I can't locate any photos without the body. He ran his control arms up to intersect on inner axis of lower swing arms, not sure how yours was done however I replicated OEM lower paddles arms and geometry with OEM bushing, no binding. I run the pipes under the centre of the bottom bash plate on my 35 Chebby supported by 1" rubber isolators if that helps, been on over 15yrs now. Not a lot of room there with coilovers, discs and calipers, pinion strut rods and lower control arms and then you have limitations with frame and X-member as well. It can be done
I've no idea what this frame is under however it appears mid to late 30s and as you see, the pipes go over the 1/2 shafts, all good if you have sufficient space and clearance?
I wouldn't route your exhaust under a jag irs. This is the voice of experience! Just not enough clearance to keep the pipes off the road surface. Chris
Just came in from the garage. I decided to go under the axle. I've seen a lot of rods this way and will joint the ranks. I'll be running tall tires and a decent ride height. NYC roads are too bad for a low stance, for me at least. Pipes my look too close in some pics but that's because it's still loose. Next I'll make the brackets to hold it all in place then weld it up. I used a 2 1/4" Speedway mandrel tube kit. Plan to come up behind the axle to exit the exhaust down into the rear of the fender but be almost out of sight. That's the plan at least. I'll know for sure once the body is back on.
My 2 1/2" pipes are tucked up close to bash plate and above the scrub line with 235:75:15s on the rear. Make sure that you don't forget bump stops above the hubs. This is my roller without body, eventually with weight it settled down with the pipes just above the 'V' of the scrub line. That's the bump stop circled up the top left.
What springs are you using? I've been looking for reasonably priced priced spring info/supplier and yet to find anything I can use. The donor car is almost 1000 pounds heavier so I know those springs are wrong. I was thinking four 100# spings might work as I was told the stock were 200#. Right now I'm only running springs on the rear shocks.
They're the original 420 Jag springs, I upgraded to new shocks because with passengers in back seat, car would bottom out on bump stops. Rides perfect probably because springs are old originals, car isn't that heavy by comparison to Jag. I believe OEM springs are rated at 200lb. Sent from my SM-T355Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I went the fenderwell route, which run under the runningboard for a bit, before going under the chassis rails, and then running through the K members, into the center of the chassis to avoid the trailing arms, over the axle, then out at about 45degrees to go around the tank, and then exit at the tail of the rear fenders. I was originally going to run through the chassis from the engine, but steering box and pedal assembly make t really tight, especially the pedals, so I went this route. Hope the pictures show you enough.
That OEM cage does definately restrict what you can do in the limited space you have available. I don't know if you'd prefer to eliminate it entirely and fabricate another more simple mounting member. It'd certainly free up some necessary space. I originally used thick wall 3" RHS with a top mounting plate for pumpkin and two (2) outer shock mounts. I wanted the car lower as it sat too high in the rear so I swapped that out and used double row tube in lieu. Sits nice now with a slight rake as I recessed IFS into frame. I didn't see those other pictures until now, damn getting older and need new glasses . Sent from my SM-G950F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was going to buy the Snow White crossmember. I called twice and each time was promised a return call. It never happened so I used what I had. I'm after a comfortable ride more than handling. Once I get the body back on and the car on the ground the rest of the story will write itself.
Hey Do it Over, Did you change the track width for that Jag rear end? What size wheels are you running? Did you pump out the rear guards? Cheers
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