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looking for an oil pan that'll clear my drag link

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cktasto, Apr 14, 2013.

  1. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 312

    cktasto
    Member

    Hey guys I've been assuming I'd have to do some major surgery to my oil pan to get clearance from my drag link but when I got everything mocked up this afternoon I'm pretty darn close to having enough clearnance...close but not enough. Anyone have any suggestions for an off the shelf oil pan that'll do the trick for me? I attached a couple of pics of my clearances. I also attached a couple drawings of an oil pan I'm considering.
    The geometry in the photo of the gold milodon pan looks interesting but they dont provide dimensions.
    appreciate the help.

    Charlie
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Looks like oilpan is loose with no gasket to me....You can extend pitman arm or modify existing pan,move steering box, or space pitman arm down...
     
  3. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 312

    cktasto
    Member

    thanks I hadnt thought about using a spacer to move the pitman arm down. I'm going to go out to the garage and look at that.
    the motor could be moved up with spacers or shims as well.
    Moving hte steering box would be my last option...but it is an option.
    modifying the pan is what I've assumed I'd be doing all along but I didnt expect the clearance to be as good as it is with the stock pan. that still may be the way I go ulitmately.
    your right, the oil pan is installed without a gasket.
     
  4. Instead of buying a new pan,moving the engine,or a steering box re-locate- just drop the link a few inches downward. It's only side to side movement. Guys have been doing it for years sticking stuff where it never came from the factory. PM for details.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2013

  5. Hotrodbuilderny
    Joined: Mar 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,646

    Hotrodbuilderny
    Member

    I don't know if it's the pictures but it sure looks like the pitman arm and steering link are going to crash into the leaf spring.
     
  6. Hotrodbuilderny
    Joined: Mar 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,646

    Hotrodbuilderny
    Member

    I would put the draglink on top of the pitman arm and outer steering arm and use a Moroso style Chevy 11 oil pan
     
  7. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 4,001

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    I vote for moving the steering box , best overall solution !

    dave
     
  8. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 312

    cktasto
    Member


    Good eye! Your right I just went out and looked at it and the bolt head will collide with the leaf spring. I'm going to move the drag link to the top of the steering arm and pitman arm instead of the bottom as it is now.

    Looks like I'll be doing some modifications to the oil pan as I'd originally planned.
     
  9. To quote my Dad
    " your best bet is to keep it stock, it almost always works. But if you can't, and I know you won't - you better be good at making parts and figuring this shit out"
     
  10. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,400

    MP&C
    Member

  11. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,522

    George
    Member

    Read years ago about a Mopar that they drilled big holes through the side of the oil pan & welded tubing into it and ran the link through the tubing.
     
  12. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,281

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    This a Gasser project right!

    Then move the engine back a little which surely goes with the principles of gasser design and move the steering box forward a little if needed.

    However my first option is to suggest you go to push/pull style steering and then you will avoid forever the possibility of the front coming down hard and the spring fouling with the pitman arm for whatever reason.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  13. Chevy55
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 409

    Chevy55
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Here is a pic of my 56 with Chevy 2 oil pan and chevy 2 pitman arm. It gets close at lock on either side but it works.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Mac_55
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 688

    Mac_55
    Member

    Charlie , i was having the same problem . i just went with the Milodon 30970 pan . The only time it gets close is at full left turn , I know its an expensive pan but man it sure saves on alot of headaches .

    Summit has them for 275 or so . However if you call summit and tell them about this ad on Amazon , then they will beat the amazon price by a dollar with free shipping .
    Here is the link to the amazon sale . I just went with summit because of thier easy going return policy just incase i had to return it .
    http://www.amazon.com/Milodon-30970-Steel-Plated-Street/dp/B000CON53S
     
  15. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 312

    cktasto
    Member

    hey mac!
    I was looking at that pan but i thought the dimensions were so close to the stock diimensions I didnt think it was worth the expense. I'm going to take another look at it, but at this point I'm making plans to buy a new stock pan for 35.00 from summit and modifying it. that post by MP&C has got me thinking!!

    Is your motor in the stock position? I think my issue is my motor is moved forward about an inch.
     
  16. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 312

    cktasto
    Member


    thanks Dwight...see your PM
     
  17. Mac_55
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 688

    Mac_55
    Member

    Mine is forward 3/4 of an inch . I was looking at the pictures and noticed the location of the front of the sump in refrence to the dipstick tube and thought it looked like it would allow enough clearance , when the wheels are straight ahead i am a little over an inch away from the pan , turning right gives more clearance and at full left turn i get really really close . Im going to go with a longer drag link , clock the steering arm a bit and all will be right with the world.
     

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