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look at my new flattie...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 58apache, Jul 29, 2007.

  1. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    This will be my first flattie project so PLEASE any input would be appreciated....

    I found this short block for sale and brought it home yesterday. It was built 25 years ago and the guy had it wraped and sealed up and in his house the whole time. I do not know the entire specs but it is .030 over. appears new pistons. adjustable lifters. isky 3/4 (?) cam. new springs. block was checked and dipped. no visable threads stripped or frigged up. stamped 1BA in a few places. this is going in my 52 f1. and he said that is what it came out of. I have read around a little on the hardened seat thing and this will be a weekend driver so from what I've read unless you are doing a radical build or really work the engine the hardened seats are not required. also someone told me to add a little (100 to 1 or so) ATF to the gas for the cushioning.

    any thig jump out from these pics that dosnt look right or anything I should check for sure? It spins over. no visibale marks in cylinders. cam seem to have some assembly lube on it still. a little crap in the water jackets but not much. inside of oil pan is clean etc...

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  2. Degreaser
    Joined: Nov 9, 2006
    Posts: 935

    Degreaser
    Member

    Looks nice to me.
     
  3. flathead4d
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 884

    flathead4d
    Member

    I noticed that the isky lifters are the type that were used with the Isky
    404-A cam. That is, they do not rotate and have a groove which keeps them in a permanent position in the lifter bore. I don't know if this type of lifter was used with any other Isky cam so you might have one of Isky finest and most radical. Also noticed the the front of the crank shaft, where the seal is and the spiral groove, looks a bit rough so you might want to take a closer look at that. Otherwise it looks like you scored a great find. Let us know how it comes out.
     
  4. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    what exactly should i be checking for on the grove?
     
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  5. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    it was full of grease i cleaned it out with a toothpick is this what it should look like?

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  6. Mooney
    Joined: Sep 7, 2005
    Posts: 21

    Mooney
    Member

    I haven't been around for a long time but it looks like the person who rebuilt the engine reused the connecting rod nuts. I alway thought that was a no-no.
     
  7. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,426

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    flathead con rod bolts are integral with the beam, so you don't have a choice! make sure the threads of rod adn nut are super clean, wiping out a thread with grit will ruin your day.
     
  8. HUGHES AUTOMOTIVE
    Joined: Jun 22, 2006
    Posts: 70

    HUGHES AUTOMOTIVE
    Member

    I believe only mercury pistons have that notch on top. I would suspect 4 inch stroke crankshaft. Looks like find.
     
  9. DUB
    Joined: Jul 28, 2007
    Posts: 28

    DUB
    Member

    Hello there,

    Neat find, but since your asking, and it is looking new, you don't know who built it. Finish tearing it apart and inspect every thing. Then you know for a fact it is right. That means magna fluxing, a extra few bucks investment, because if it's not, you'll turn that little jewel in to swap meet material.

    Second, I'm not to fond of the little stamped lock nuts on the conecting rods, harmonics in the engine might vibrate enought to make one fly off, and where it might go? So new modern rod nut/bolts might be on your shopping list, also, not being a Flat Head expert, did they make forged cranks for those raskles?

    3/4 cams don't mean anything, look at the specs, re-cam to your liking if needed.

    Good Luck

    DUB

    PS, I have a soft spot in my heart for 58-59 Chevys, photo was taken about 1974

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    By DieselBiker
     
  10. Aman
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,522

    Aman
    Member
    from Texas

    Looks good. Keep it up and keep us posted. Good job.
     
  11. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    the guy didnt know anything about the crank the pan was on it when I got it and he never took it off. I paid 2650 and drove 16 hours round trip to Hotlanta to get it.
     
  12. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

  13. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,796

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    Nope. you should send that Fenton intake to me as it will match my heads. :D

    Nice find. Good luck with the motor.
     
  14. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member


    I do some offroad trail riding around here so I built a rig to suit my needs.... far from traditional with this one!!! I will redeam myself with this F1

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  15. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member


    got a butt load of pm's on both heads and intake but I love the old performance parts and would like to use them. the intake seems to be ok I am concerned about the pitting on the heads
     
  16. DUB
    Joined: Jul 28, 2007
    Posts: 28

    DUB
    Member

    The heads and intake look a little scarry, they would look good on a mock up or display piece.

    DUB
    Neat ride
     
  17. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    I thought so also.. I have a new offy intake, heads and 2-2's for it and I am pretty set on using the new stuff now that I have looked at the stuff that came with the engine. I had hoped the old stuff was in better shape. thanks for the comment on the 58 I figured I would get a bunch of shit for it. espically in a flattie thread!!!
     
  18. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,796

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    That intake looks fine, but the heads look a little rough and would take a lot of work to make them usable. I don't have alot of cash, but if you wanna get rid of the intake, PM me. I like the look when the heads and intake match on a flatty.
     
  19. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,514

    Digger_Dave
    Member

    The lifters are located by the "pin" sticking up from the side of the lifter bore. So I think flathead4d is correct.
    In addition to the "keyed" lifters; the picture shows DUAL VALVE SPRINGS.

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    So this would mean a fairly radical cam.

    As far as the rod nut "keepers"; Ford and Merc used them quite successfully.
    A possible "upgrade" would be to use ARP ROD NUTS.

    It looks like most of the broken fins on the head(s) are adjacent to head stud / bolt holes; so maybe "blending" the rough areas like the ends of the other fins would be all you need. However the pitting shown in the head pictures, might make them unusable.
     
  20. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    think i will run the offy stuff... what is the deal with the spiral grove in the crank? what is it for?
     
  21. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,796

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    Oil control, "screws" oil back into crankcase.
     
  22. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,514

    Digger_Dave
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Not necessarily. After market pistons are often marked with a "notch" or an "arrow head" to indicate the position the piston should face. (forward)

    A quick way to determine if you have a Merc crank - 4" stroke - is to measure ACROSS the width of one of the LARGE crank counter weights at the FLATS - at RIGHT ANGELES to the axis of the crank.

    If the width is OVER 6" - 6 1/8 approx. - THEN it's a Merc 4" stroke crank.
    If the width is UNDER 6" - 5 7/8" approx. - THEN it's a FORD 3 3/4" stroke crank.
     
  23. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    stamped 1BA on the crank so I assume it is a ford crank also has 16 stamped in another weight
     
  24. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

    I believe the marks are to mark front of piston
     
  25. 58apache
    Joined: Oct 28, 2006
    Posts: 127

    58apache
    Member

  26. Murdock
    Joined: Nov 26, 2008
    Posts: 10

    Murdock
    Member

    All merc cranks have a thumb nail size casting indent on the front side of the front counter weight.
     
  27. greasy50chevy
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 547

    greasy50chevy
    Member

  28. mr.smith
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 203

    mr.smith
    Member

  29. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,407

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Noticed the keyed lifters and double springs straight away. But also look at the shape of the face of the lifter in the pic showing the cam. Is that a big groove worn right down the center of the lifter?
     
  30. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 844

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    Me too,but the lifter should be OK if that is the cam it belongs to and it looks like a trick of the light. I can see no real reason to pull it down,it's a flattie, not some SBC grenade! put the heads on and light her up!.

    The Spiral groove on the crank should be filled with vaseline or assembly lube if you are not going to start the engine is a hurry. the oil pan should not be allowed to run dry on it.
     

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