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Technical Long Block Cleaning

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by whemming, Jun 16, 2015.

  1. whemming
    Joined: Jun 16, 2015
    Posts: 5

    whemming

    All,

    I have acquired a rebuilt long block 350. The long block has sat for a couple months since being built. It was wd-40'ed well and wrapped in plastic.

    I'm just now getting around to installing the rest of the components, however I have noticed a fine grit dirt has developed. I assume this is from dust etc getting stuck to the wd-40 over the last few months (even though it was wrapped, I guess not well enough).

    My question is, what is the best way to clean out this dirt/grit that has developed in the intake and bottom end. You can't see it, but you can feel it.

    Thanks,

    William
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,712

    squirrel
    Member

    Take it all apart and start over...
     
    saltflats and luckythirteenagogo like this.
  3. whemming
    Joined: Jun 16, 2015
    Posts: 5

    whemming

    This is what I'm trying to avoid :)
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,712

    squirrel
    Member

    The dirt on the cam is what would worry me the most.
     

  5. whemming
    Joined: Jun 16, 2015
    Posts: 5

    whemming

    I don't think any of the dirt got to the cam. The engine is complete minus the intake manifold and oil pan. So the dust has just settled on the crank and intake.

    Willaim
     
  6. mjlangley
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 170

    mjlangley
    Member
    from SE MI

    Relatively speaking, a gasket set, rags and cleaner plus some elbow grease now is cheaper than a new cam replacement in the car later.

    Plus some piece of mind that it's as clean as it needs to be....
     
  7. whemming
    Joined: Jun 16, 2015
    Posts: 5

    whemming

    Yes good point, I was just hoping I could avoid it. But your correct, It would worry me to death if I didn't

    William
     
    saltflats likes this.
  8. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,758

    JOECOOL
    Member

    I agree ,its hard enough to get one clean in a clean shop with it all apart,let alone in a place that has already deposited grit all over it.IN MY OPINION ,if you do not take it all apart you will regret it.
     
  9. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    anyone that doesn't heed Jim's advice is foolish
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  10. X2!:eek:
     
  11. whemming
    Joined: Jun 16, 2015
    Posts: 5

    whemming

    Thanks for the advice, I guess I will be ordering a gasket kit.
     
  12. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,616

    noboD
    Member

    It amazes me when they doubt Squirrel
     
  13. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    do it like the furry critter says , as its like starting it up with a pan of blasting sand in it .. dirt is thy enemy . next time bag it up in a trash bag or engine bag and seal it .
     
  14. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Yep, that is the best advice. I had one in our shop that was rebuilt and I wrapped it in layers of plastic bags and oiled the hell out of it. A few years later I thought I would pull the pan to make sure it was clean inside, and somehow grinding dust had infiltrated the block and the pan had this layer of grit inside.

    Tear it down, and scrub it well. You will be happy you spent the extra time.

    Don
     
  15. My brother did a Chevy 327 short block in high school, did a real nice job on it. Had the pistons knurled, crank cut, rods checked, new cam bearings, the works.

    He put an oil pan on it, cardboard and tape over anything else that was open. Then double-bagged it using 2 black trash bags. He opened it up 6 years later and there was not even a speck of dust on anything. It went right on my engine stand for final assembly.
     
  16. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,312

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Did it happen to be stored in a commercial body shop?

    Seems like ALL my half dozen mechanical dealings with a few of those guys so far have been VERY disappointing even when the paint is a good color match and smooth and shiny.

    - Leave the aircleaner off for extended periods so when the entire engine gets covered with shop sanding dust the engine gets a nice mouth full.
    - Attaching new OEM plastic fender liners such that before traveling 100 miles the fasteners pop out on the highway and the the liners rub and large sections melt right thru.
    - Charge several hundreds of dollars to replace mechanisms inside a door whose window glass tips forward about an inch when raising. "I know exactly what it is. Done lots of those before. " When the car comes home the window tips and jams just like before.
    - As a courtesy pulls a large shallow dent out of a door. The first time that door is opened, the side trim snags the body, bends and rips off.
    - Attaching body panels with 4 or 5 mongrel screws and bolts using all of the dozens of the factory mount points.
    - Assembling a radiator support with a couple of 10-32 machine bolts instead of the proper number of full sized fasteners.
    - Says the car has to have the battery disconnected since it drains while sitting as there is something wrong with the electric clock. The real problem is the wiper motor brushes have welded together, possibly from being jammed and unable to return to the parked position.
     

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