Technical Little tips and tricks for garage hobbyists.

Yes he uses them for the backup power plants at all the properties he purchased for lower prices because he said they would be under water by now.

 

I learned this tip from a GM Tech. When charging a side terminal battery use bolts screwed in where the cables go to hold the charger clamps. DO NOT screw the bolts all the way in. Put nuts on the bolts and use the nuts to tighten against the terminals.

 

Bump to top.

 

You can buy non-CA spouts on that auction site, in both gas and diesel sizes.

 

https://gasspouts.com/collections/all

 

Here, in Wisconsin, our local auto parts stores sell “replacement” spout kits. They’re intended for the old cans, but I’ll be damned if they don’t screw right onto the new cans, too. The kit even comes with the breather button for the can.


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Yeah I know, I have 4-5 of those plastic jugs and every one has a different thread! Only you don't find out until you try to pour and gas is running down your leg. Bad as lug nuts. At least there is no reverse threads.

 

Shhh don't give the EPA any ideas.

 

If you need something bigger than those 4”/5” magnetic dishes to hold parts and bolts from rolling on the floor , grab a steel hub cap and stick a magnet on the bottom and load it up . Metal baking pans work as well .

 

Yeh, those magnetic parts trays: Puting it all back together and can't find the last small nut anywhere! Stuck on the bottom of the tray, shit! This is simple. All my flat ratchet combination wrenches. Paint one side red, to tell back off nuts, saves time flipping back and forth.

 

Use Cerama Bryte cooktop cleaner to polish exhast tips, even works on T2 tips! 31 5w

 

Just used your last Mig tip and have no more in the drawer..........
Remove the tip and put it in your hand drill. Turn the belt sander on and pull the trigger on the drill so the tip is rotating while touched against the sanding belt. Move the whole thing in a semi-circle and renew the end of the tip. The wire is still in it so the hole looks plugged. Push the little wire at the opposite end or tap the wire on a table and as it pushes out the front of the tip it clears the hole. Now you can start welding anew.......

 

This thread should be a video.

 

I didn't mind the hose coupler banging into my heap when it was primer. After I painted it I slid some heater hose over it. Now it just makes dents, no scratches.. A nice side benefit is how easy it is to pull back the sleeve. Yeah I know the good ones already have it.

Mr. HF

 

The best thing I have found for sealing caulking tubes is Tyco Adhesives Nashua tape. It is foil faced but
has a very sticky adhesive. Much thicker that typical foil tape. I use about an inch and a half piece and press it on the cut tip and fold the rest down and roll it on the bench. I don't know how long it will keep the silicone, caulk , etc, from hardening up but several weeks for sure. Mine has a light grey adhesive.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...ulti-Purpose-HVAC-Foil-Tape-1207792/100030120

 

best deal i've found for sealing caulking tubes is a large wire nut...generally red or blue are for larger gauge electrical wire and will thread right on to an opened caulking tube....seals t tight and can be used over and over.

 

I save the cut off tip from the caulking tube and insert it back into the end to make a perfect seal. It keeps the caulk from drying out. Sometimes I need a pliers to get it loose.

 

This isn't necessarily a shop tip but something I learned by chance. I bought a new 2018 GMC in March of 2019 to replace my old and ailing 2006 GMC. So, being it was the first new truck I ever owned, and I am 69, I decided to buy all new accessories for it. One of them was a new trailer hitch ball mount and ball. When I got the ball mount it was wrapped in plastic so I put it under the back seat until I needed to use it. When that time came I slid the wrapped ball mount into the receiver, inserted the hitch pin and off I went. When I took the ball mount out I noticed that the plastic wrap was undamaged so I left it on. That has been over a year ago now and the plastic is still there. But, I don't have any rust on the ball mount or in the receiver. The plastic even acts a little bit like a noise muffler in that I don't hear it clanking around. But, that could be attributed to my lack of hearing!

 

Travis, Been using 3/8 bolts for years on those things. The soft plastic junk on the eyelet holds in the corrosion. Cut it away, toss the 5/16 head deal, and then add bolt and nut, and a bit of light grease. It'll stay clean for years.

 

(Above are posts 583 & 584 from December 2019)

Here we are 6 months later and I just remembered something a friend told me about 30 years ago. Brake fluid will do about the same thing. Only trouble is that brake fluid and nice paint don't play well together, so it is sort of an emergency measure if you're using it for window rubber; and probably best as a temporary deal before the car/truck goes to the paint shop..

 

Here's a copy of a post I made on the Garage Journal a while back:

show your hydraulic jack valve release handles
… here's one I made for my cheap swap meet press today.

1. I took the original release valve screw (that you turn with the jack handle) completely out of the jack body. It just unscrewed all the way out.

2. I drove the pin out of the release valve screw.

3. I cut the heads and threads off of two bolts, a 1/4" and a 3/16"

4. I rounded and smoothed the two ends of the 1/4" rod; formerly bolt.

5. I rounded one end of the 3/8" rod and chamfered the other end.

6. I drilled a 1/4" hole through one end of the 3/8" rod.

7. I welded the chamfered end of the 3/8" rod to the end of the release valve screw.

8. I ground the weld. Not perfect but good enough for the girls I go with. I chucked up the 3/8" rod in a drill press, turned it on, and used a 4.5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to dress the weld. I was REALLY careful to stay out of the threads with the grinder.

9. I drove the 1/4" rod into the 1/4" hole. It was a very tight fit and is secure enough that I don't believe it will ever move or come out.

10. I screwed the former release valve screw; now the release valve handle back into the jack.

11. Voila!!! No more having to use the jack handle to turn the release valve.

notes:

12. I should have cut the 3/8" bolt shorter as it sticks out a tad far, but I won't change it.

13. I'll be making one for the jack in my engine hoist next.

14. The hole you see just above the threads is where the original pin used to be (see #2 above).

15. The divots just above the hole (see #14) are where my welds didn't completely fill up the chamfer, but I'm not going to go back and fill them.







EDIT: the pix have gone away so here they are again...

 

@atch above post reminded me of the "tune-up I did on my press. It was always a hassle to pump the jack with the loose handle and then have to release it with the other end.
I took a short piece of DOM tube and drilled it and notched it to fit over the release. I welded a short length of rod with large wingnut in the tube and added a set screw to keep it all in place. Next I welded a larger piece of tube to a piece of an old Ford tie rod and slipped it over the press lever and secured it with the tie rod clamp. I also added a '40 brake pedal spring to hold it up when released.

 

I gotta 'nuther'n!
I bought a few of those really strong(but small) magnets from The Depot....drilled/countersunk some holes along the top edge of my work bench. Now when I'm taking stuff apart I pile the screws/bolts/washers on top of a magnet......instead of crawling around on the filthy floor with a flash light looking for them.
Sometimes I use a metal tray but this is easier!
6sally6

 

When straightening those pesky bent fins on your radiator, forget the normal tiny flathead screwdrivers and that screwy radiator comb thingamajig.



And get your secret weapon out, the plastic cable tie......insert it from the opposite side of the radiator and it'll push those pesky bent fins sttraight... but wait there's more...you can also work it like a sawing motion towards the tubes to get right in those places you can't reach !

 

What a GREAT finger saving tip.

 

Setting Stromberg fuel height or float setting.

Scribe a line on the inside of the bowl 15/16 from the top edge. It’s always there when you need to check or reset it even on the side of the road.


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Here's one I saw on another web site. I haven't tried it so I can't vouch for it.

 

Making an odd shaped piece of transmission tunnel and I had no poster board to make a pattern with...
So I outlined the shape with tig rod. Then traced it out while rolling it over a piece of flat sheet. Cut it out and bent it to match the wire form. It fit perfect, the first try.

 

Great tips here. Anyone else have any tip to add? A simply trick may be a huge tip for someone.

 

Jack stand condoms, made from radiator hose. Portable air, made from an old propane tank.
I attached an old Harley rotor to one of my floor jacks. Makes a nice platform.