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Lifting car onto jackstands

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by monkeyodoom, Aug 15, 2013.

  1. monkeyodoom
    Joined: Jun 10, 2013
    Posts: 54

    monkeyodoom
    Member
    from Arkansas

    I know this is a probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway.:D

    I have a 41 Ford Deluxe that I am going to replace the rear end and rear suspension on but I am not sure of the safest/best way to put the car on jack stands to do this. I'm also not sure as to where i should place the stands on the frame to avoid damage. Does anyone have any advice on how to properly lift it and where to place the stands?

    I'm assuming lifting all four tires off the ground would be safer than just lifting the back. Due to the possibility of the car rolling forward off the stands. Plus I'm debating on replacing the springs and shocks on the front of the car also.
     
  2. Use cinder blocks and a small piece of lumber under the frame rail near the rear end on each side. Then there is no chance of rolling. Just or safe measure keep the jack under the car. My .02. Good luck.
     
  3. monkeyodoom
    Joined: Jun 10, 2013
    Posts: 54

    monkeyodoom
    Member
    from Arkansas

    I thought about cinder blocks but my brother said they would bust under the weight of the car. I know I've seen plenty of cars on blocks before though. They would probably be cheaper than going and buying 4-6 jack stands also.
     
  4. ^^^^.02 cents is more that that advise is worth. If you are interested in a closed casket funeral, go ahead and use them Cinder blocks are for building walls, they are not an automotive tool.
    I prefer to keep the front wheels on the ground. Chock them with some hunks of 4X4 or dedicated wheel chocks, if you have them. Jack the rear up and put your jackstands under the frame before the kickup. Be sure everything is solid. Rock the car back and forth to be sure. Keep the jack under the third member for extra security, especially when you have to get under the car
     
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  5. DD COOPMAN
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,121

    DD COOPMAN
    Member

    DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS!!!!!!

    You can friggen' DIE! DD
     
  6. jw johnston
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 106

    jw johnston
    Member

    If its a stock rear end with transverse spring your gonna have to get the ass pretty high in the air and pull the rear wheels off to get it out. I don't recommend cinder blocks. Your better off with blocks if wood or real tall jack stands.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. No cinder blocks for jack stands, people die that way. Your frame is similar to my '35. Jack up the center of the rear axle and place jack stands under the frame, just forward of the wheel opening. Car shouldn't roll off of jack stands, gravity is holding it down, but chock the front wheels for safety. Also do not use the off shore jackstands that are just pressed, not welded together. Can then use the jack to lower the rear end.
    RB
     
  8. bill s preston esq
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 315

    bill s preston esq
    Member

    i have the front of my wagon sitting on 2 large tree trunk sections right now.
     
  9. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    I've seen cinder blocks crack and crush under weight...not too safe.

    I did this same swap on my '56 (my avatar). If you were just adjusting rear brakes or lubing zircs then lifting the rear only and chocking the front tires would be fine, but since you are going to be muscling the rear end around, banging and pounding to get those leafs out, you will be causing a lot of weight shifting and creating movement...wheel chocks can slip, so NOT a good idea under these conditions UNLESS you can get them really tight under the tires and and KNOW they won't slip.

    I put the front axle on two jackstands...one left and one right, as close the the wheels as possible to gain stability. As for the rear, I put the jackstands under the frame on each side, left and right, right next to or close to the rear leaf spring hanger/shackle....that is already a place on the frame proven to be able to take the weight of the vehicle. Of course, if the axle cannot come out from the side and needs to come out from the back, you'll need the jackstands in FRONT of the axle. If you do put the jackstands in front of the axle/wheel well, USE a large tree trunk round/section to put under the rear bumper or rear frame crossmember while working (something that sits an inch or two below the frame and can be moved as needed) as security in case the weight shifts...it'll catch the car before your head does. SAFE is the most important thing in these situations....you want to be around to enjoy the car. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
  10. X2- get a set of truck or taller jack stands and place them on the frame rails
     
  11. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,953

    silent rick
    Member

    wow
     
  12. Play it safe and get 4 good jack stands,,as long as the weight is distributed equally you wont have any problems.

    I've used concrete blocks in the past and got away with it,,but it is not safe,,spend a few bucks and do it right. HRP
     
  13. chubbie
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,276

    chubbie
    Member

    You need 4 jack stands. If you have a 41 ford my guess is you can jack almost anywhere with out damage. I have an asortment of wood blocks, 6x6, 4x4, 2x8 ect, I use them all the time. You should have a floor jack. Floor jacks are available most anywhere. Go buy one!!!!!!!

    I look the job over and some times i jack part way and block it, go to the otherside jack part way block it and then jack the rest of the way useing jack stands. does it look safe?? are the stands all strait?? shake the car... does it move??? Make sure before you get under it. Does anyone know you are under the car?? let someone know..
     
  14. monkeyodoom
    Joined: Jun 10, 2013
    Posts: 54

    monkeyodoom
    Member
    from Arkansas

    Its parallel leafsprings which i will be replacing with a chassis engineering rear suspension kit. The previous owner had changed them to parallel leafsprings but didn't do a very good job of changing it over. I'll also be removing the rear end completely and replacing it with one out of an explorer. The current one is too long so the wheels don't fit under the fenders and its lower geared than i care for 3.92. Once it's done it should have a better stance. In my opinion the rear is just too high. As someone put it in an other thread it's got a stinkbug stance to it.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
  15. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    EVERYONE forgets this, but it is about as important as not using cinder blocks.
     
  16. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,501

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Listen to the guy's that say to use jackstands, they are giving you the right info. I know it's over kill but when ever I work under my car I keep a fifth jackstand handy and move it to where I am working, just in case.
     
  17. 51custom
    Joined: Feb 15, 2011
    Posts: 102

    51custom
    Member

    Just a quick story...My friend and his buddy worked the midnight shift. His buddy went home to do the brakes on his car, one morning. He and his wife passed each other on the way.
    When his wife got home a 4:30 PM she found her husband dead under the car after the cinder block collapsed... True story!! USE PROPPER JACK STANDS...PLEASE.
    I use HD jack stands 4 of 'em.
    Jim
     
  18. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,894

    chopped
    Member

    Curious, has anyone ever seen a concrete block that was set correctly crush?
     
  19. DD COOPMAN
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,121

    DD COOPMAN
    Member

    Read POST #17 above! Maybe you could even ask the dead guy's wife IF he "set" the blocks correctly! One in every crowd. DD
     
  20. oldsjoe
    Joined: May 2, 2011
    Posts: 2,513

    oldsjoe
    Member

    When your talking about your SAFETY!!! CHEAP is not the way to go! Purchase some GOOD QUALITY JACK STANDS and put them under the frame chock the front wheels if you need to raise the front put 2 more jack stands under the frame in front. Never scrimp on the quality of the equipment that you are going to put your a$$ under! That's my opinion anyway.
     
  21. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,894

    chopped
    Member

    Got nothing to do with him, blocks set on the side crush, set upright I don't know. Just asking. But you feel free to jump to any conclusion you like.
     
  22. I always put the tires that I take off stacked under the car as well, just a bit of extra insurance.
     
  23. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    When I read "Use cinder blocks" I cringed. Yes, I have seen them crack under the weight of a car regardless of how they were placed. In my young and dumb days I used them and had a car come down when they failed. Luckily, I was not under it at the time.

    Use proper jackstands on a solid concrete surface, and if you have to do it on gravel or dirt maybe put some pieces of plywood down first. That is not the best way to do it, but better than just putting the jackstands down on bare dirt.

    Don
     
  24. monkeyodoom
    Joined: Jun 10, 2013
    Posts: 54

    monkeyodoom
    Member
    from Arkansas

    Well I've got a hold of a few friends and I'm gonna have plenty of jackstands to work with so I'll go that route. I'm guessing the best place to put the stands will be where the x member meets the frame rails? The frame on my car is not boxed so i'm afraid of the frame bending and causing the stands to slip.
     
  25. DD COOPMAN
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,121

    DD COOPMAN
    Member

    That '41 frame is plenty strong at the "X" intersections. Glad to see you going the jackstand route. DD
     
  26. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    I do this too. you only die once....
     
  27. 3quarter32
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 293

    3quarter32
    Member

    There is a huge difference between a concrete block and and cinder block. I would not use either. I did once back in the 60s. Came out the next morning and the car was sitting on the ground. Blocks crushed overnight. Whewww.
     
  28. harley rider
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 527

    harley rider
    Member

    I was told when I was a kid to always use large wood blocks or something else some where under the car that is thicker than you are ,so if for some reason it comes off the stands it wont smash you. and I was also told Never use cement blocks!
     
  29. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

  30. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,278

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    I had to change a tire on my tractor two weeks ago out in the field. Only thing around was cinder blocks. I positioned them what I thought was strongest, holes up like you were building a wall. Lasted about 5 minutes while I prepped the tire and crunch, smashed to bits. Of course I knew better than to be under it.
     

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