Lets see your scratch built floor pans

After reading Da Tinman's post about floor pans, I decided to have a go at it myself. I will be replacing the whole floor rather than just patches. I have the back half of my cab to use as a pattern for the beads, but the front half is a patchwork of Shi**y scraps welded over the original floors that I did years ago. It is now time to rip it all out and start from scratch. So that brings me to this post. Let's see some pics of floor pans, patch or complete, that you did yourself. I have a bead roller, a 4' by 8' piece of 20 ga, and enough bits to fill any voids I may have. While we're on the subject, what's the best way to attach the new floor to the cab? Should I leave a one inch lip of the old floor all the way around and spot/full weld to that, or bend a 90 degree lip on the edge of the pan and weld to the inside walls of the cab? Thanks, John

 

Bump

 

make your beads on come up into the cab, not out. That way if you have some water or fluids that spill, they won't settle in the beads and rust them out!

 

For my 36 Dodge I had to replace the entire bottom 6" of the body, so I made all my floor out of 14 gauge. The sills are also 14, the rockers and quarter panel patches I made from 18, and the wheel wells I made from 16. I initially made the pieces for the floors with beads, but they warped on me so I made them a second time (sound familiar?). Bob

 

Rolled them in the english wheel first in the opposite direction of the bead so when the bead was put in it would straiten the pannel. When the reat of the work is finished we will spray the floor with bedliner to preserve and keep the sound down.

 

Here's the Floor for the 31 Ford Cabriolet.

 

doing this in a 36 chey pu.



johnny

 

Here is my 39..she was missing most of the good stuff.


The new floor is a mix of 14 and 16ga, depending on the panel and 18 for the driveshaft tunnel.


Good luck, -Abone.

 

Not the best but better than nothin.

 

heres some ive built

 

heres mine

 

I cheated... we attached the floor to the frame and mounted the body above it... and it bolts in
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=431579

 

I smell soke is that rivetted together?? It's a great look

 

I did this for a Model a tudor.


Lance helped too.

 

Here is a pic going in the car. I screwed it down with oval head stainless screws. Flaired the washer heads into the sheetmetal with the pullmax, but you can do it with a rivit gun or a air hammer and a backup.

 

50 F-1, in (slow) progress. 12 ga, no beads, 1/2" sq. tube reinforcement

 

Speaking of DaTinman... he did these for me.

 

Heres mine, 1/8th inch diamond plate.

 

These pics are from 2 different Model A's I did.

 

Here are a couple from my sedan I'm currently doing.

 

Model T Coupe.

 

Here is a full Merc floor and firewall I did for Mercury Charlie. My first floor, a bit intimidating, but turned out nice. now all the new floors are based off this design.

 

Some I did on my truck

 

'32 Coupe.

 

Excellent thread guys.
Very timely.
Just pondering about how to do mine.




.

 

heres a section I made with my pullmax for my 34 ford 3 window project. It has some beading facing down and some beading coming off the original floor facing up.

 

Thanks for this thread...I need to do the floor of the falcon...sheesh...

 

low buck cut from a mid 80s chevy pickup hood..not pretty but beats dragging your feet on the ground. I need to buy a bead roller!

before



after

 

Step down Hudson (48-54).

 

'40-'47 Hudson, but custom design.