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lets see your budget built small block chevy 350's

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lorodz, Nov 6, 2010.

  1. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,728

    lorodz
    Member

    im trying to get an idea of what kind of power i can make on a budget with a small block ...by swapping maybe just heads and cam?
     
  2. 6t5frlane
    Joined: Dec 8, 2004
    Posts: 2,382

    6t5frlane
    Member
    from New York

    I would look at some POP Hot Rodding,Hot Rod, Car Craft and just about any other car mag for ideas. Of all the engines out there the SBC has been covered to death. Cam and heads are always a good startying point.
     
  3. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,460

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    What do you have in the pantry and frig ?. Or do still need to go to the market ?.
     
  4. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,728

    lorodz
    Member

    i giot some fullie heads ...thats pretty much it...still thinking about a cam and what else could i use ?
     

  5. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,460

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Is it a stock shortblock ? Or I should ask, cast pistons or forged, compression ect ect.
     
  6. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    I started out with a free 350 block,cast crank 2 bolt main. Put in a set of truck rods with ARP bolts, installed 7 used forged 11/1 pistions and one new one,total cost 120.00. Picked up a used cam for $60.00 solid lift.Can`t remember the specs but it was the biggest one I could find!! New timing chain and oil pump $50.00. With a rebuild kit including bearings $100.00. Paid $200 for a set of Used 1968 194 Fullie head. All I did with the head was gasket match the intake and exhaust and raised the roof on the intake side and some mild pocket porting. Install a new set of heavy springs $70.00,agian can`t remember the specs. Ran stock rockers.Intake was a torker single plane $100.with a HEI with 20 degrees welded into it and light springs. topped it off with a reworked 750 Double pumper Holley carb.Carb and kit cost $120.00 No machine work to any of the engine.All was done with a major budget in mind. I put it in a 2600 pound car with a T350 with a vega converter and 411 Gears out back and ran 11.60 at 118 MPH in the 1/4. Total investment in the whole car,Not just the engine was $2450.00 Canadian. This at a time when the dollar was shit. At the time I think it was the mags Hot Rod that came out with a article on running 11`s for $2500. There car ran 11.80 and that was $2500 US. At the time that was close to 4 grand Canadian. Both their car and mine were Chevettes!!
     
  7. 42hotrod
    Joined: Nov 3, 2005
    Posts: 811

    42hotrod
    Member
    from S.E. Idaho

    I would think 400 horsepower wouldn't be totally out of the question on a budget.
     
  8. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,728

    lorodz
    Member

    stock bottom end ..
     
  9. When I did my 350, I got the full rebuild kit (300 bucks I think). My Dad got a set of Flo-Tek alum heads for me with 64cc chambers, I bought a Torker 2 intake, used stock rods, punched it .40, and with a good sized Comp cam. If I were to count the cost of heads and machine work, It would be in the area of 1400 dollars. I would have to guess its 350-375 horse, and a load of torque...Hope this helps a little. This is with the stock bottom end also...The heads I got from speedway, and they were about 650.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2010
  10. Malpass
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 492

    Malpass
    Member

    Traditional or not, you can't beat vortec heads for the money, and you can get adapters to run early valve covers so everyone doesn't get their undies in a bunch.
     
  11. devilleish
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 254

    devilleish
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I'm gettin ready to attempt the same. Free 4-bolt main '77 short block. Plans are to re-ring it, new bearings, oil pump, timing set, cam and a thorough cleaning along with some marine heads I snagged from a neighbor who wanted 'em out of his way. Vortec heads are still a dead giveaway with their intake bolt pattern, even with the valve cover adapters to make them look like older heads. Gonna look into drilling and tapping some spacers to fit my staggered bolt pattern Corvette valve covers, too.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2010
  12. SmokinBill
    Joined: Sep 18, 2009
    Posts: 773

    SmokinBill
    Member

  13. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    Amen to that. Only thing is everything you know about Building a Fully head engine throw it out the window with a vortec setup.

    The right roller block with Vortec head and a duel intake and carb can make 400 HP and with stock bottom end. Pistons and all!
     
  14. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    SmokinBill coll ride.sound cool. what is in the engine for pistions?? What is you valve size on the heads?
     
  15. 1nos487
    Joined: Aug 4, 2010
    Posts: 26

    1nos487
    Member
    from east TN

    Is there a certain casting number for vortec heads making one better than other? I read somewhere you are limited with cam without some mods to springs?
     
  16. zach from ny
    Joined: Jan 2, 2010
    Posts: 65

    zach from ny
    Member
    from New York.

  17. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,988

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    flat top or dished pistons? The available compression is going to determine cam selection. A stock 68 4 bbl 350 was rated at 275 hp. It might have been really 300-325 and if you add a cam maybe 350hp. This was a flattop piston motor.
     
  18. MikeRose
    Joined: Oct 7, 2004
    Posts: 1,577

    MikeRose
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    A decent set of heads will make all the difference. Most aftermarket heads will outflow even the best early chevy heads. Not that there aren't stock heads that can fit the bill. A 2 bolt block and cast rods and crank should be fine to keep costs down, especially if your aiming at say 400hp or less. Keep compression around 9:1 for iron heads, and 10:1 for aluminum, and you should be fine on pump gas. Don't buy "racey" parts if you don't need em. The trick is to match parts based on reality, budget, and what you are wanting out of the engine. Throwing a set of big tube race headers on a stock engine will kill low end torque. Same thing with a giant single plane intake etc.
     
  19. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    My budget "350" build may have to be a 327, because I just bought a '68 Camaro 327 for <$50 at a garage sale. I got six Haynes and GM service manuals and two NOS GM Performance valve cover breathers in the deal as well. Wish I had taken more than $46 dollars with me! The engine has a really fresh-looking set of mid-70's 882 heads on it. I can't wait to crack it open tomorrow to see if I got something useful or a boat anchor.
     
  20. fatstax
    Joined: Sep 15, 2010
    Posts: 52

    fatstax
    Member
    from cobourg

    how solid is your foundation, asked the tower builder, in other words, i can go as high as you want as long as the foundation can support me. if you want a budget bomber, build a stout bottom and it will take care of you. 4 bolt main, high volume pump. cam and some intake work. get the fuel to it, i prefer trubo power myself. crank the boost to awesome and its party time. lose the timing chain and run gears. i run a built 383 stroker bottom end, forged everything. it revs to 8000rpm all day long. as long as you have enough inches in the basement, you can do pretty much what you want on the upper floors
     
  21. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    I know this is a couple months old, but for posterity:

    It all depends on what you consider budget. Mine is a $600 longblock rebuilder especiale

    Sounds like you already have a running motor so that saves lots

    here's what I'm doing:

    I'm doing a valve job (I have the equipment) on a set of used vortec heads I picked up for $100 with rocker arms.

    I paid $100 for a vortec airgap edelbrock intake

    I got a holley 600 cfm for free, paid $7 for vortec centerbolt valve covers, and $25 for a carb kit.

    I think my engine has a small cam in it, I'm going to check, but if not I'll buy this
    <table class="table" width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="1"><tbody><tr><td colspan="4" class="alternate">
    </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="60%"> Melling SB Chevy Torque Cam Lift .420/.443 Duration @ .050" 204¯/214¯ </td> <td align="right">MTC1</td> <td align="right">$35.87</td> <td align="center"> [​IMG]</td></tr></tbody></table>
    for a whopping $35

    That cam should be fine for stock vortecs but I'll check for problems and if so handle it. You don't have to go crazy at the machine shop to use higher lift, you can do the infamous 'ghetto grind' and grind the retainers 3/32" ish and run up to .530"-540" safely, says the deffinitive vortec guide

    there's other ways too but this is budget

    So there you go, that's my budget build.

    Desktop Dyno says 306 HP at 4500 RPM and 427 #feet at 2500 RPM

    the magazines run a holley 750 with a stout cam, but I have a 600 for free so I'm using that.

    So there you go, no high HP glory but a heckuva lot of torque down low where I actually drive, and a pretty smooth idle for good vacuum.

    In a normal driving I hardly exceed 3500 rpm anyhow, so who cares if my engine is all done by 5000 rpm? stock cast bottom end should be fine, I'm never revving the thing anyhow.

    So that's my budget build, stock shortblock with $235 worth of heads, carb, and intake, plus gaskets. I didn't check on springs, but I'd bet I'd still be around $300 if I have to buy new.
     

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