The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Apr 22, 2017.
Before and after in my '50 shoebox. I'm certainly no craftsman, but I like how it turned out.
Nothing flash, my 35 Chevy Standard with a 35 Master gauge insert
Mine got some paint on it finally, I'll put it together next week and give you an updated photo. It'll get some pin-striping to separate the colors later.
This is my '40 dash in my T coupe. Been narrowed about 3". The radio speaker grille is a shortened one from a '41 after the '40 one became a melted blob when I tried welding it. Instrument cluster is from information I gleaned from mj40's tech week post.
Hey Slim, what speedo was used here?
1931 Pontiac dash.
A BIG Thanks goes out to fleetside66! He hooked me up with the beginnings of my dash last week.
After great lengths of searching I finally id'd the gauge panel I got from him.
It appears to be a 25' - 26' studebaker cluster. What makes it hard to id is it has 4 small gauge holes vs the common studebaker small 3 hole cluster.
I found only 2 pics of a stude 4 hole cluster after many many hours of searching the web. It seems to be only on the special 6 model and then only on very few of those so I'm guessing there was a option for a 4th gauge but only on the "Special 6" model.
The 2 pics are really bad so I couldn't blow them up to try and id the gauges BUT anyway its perfect for my desires!
I'm thinking it would be perfect set into a 35 to 39 ford dash, with a center waterfall and painted cool vanilla to match the firewall with wood grain behind the cluster and the glove box area. I'm leaving the cluster just as it is, it's to damn perfect to change!!
Now I just need to find a dash to cut and fit in my 31 tudor!
Here's a pic with my autometer gauges that are close to my cool vanilla color! Just need to order the tach now! Drill a hole in the front glass to allow the trip odometer knob to stick thru and the gauge cluster is ready !!
Thanks again to fleetside66 !!
Here's a picture of one of the two 4 hole panels that are on a local auction. Can see a few of the original gauges and panel orientation.
I'm so happy that the panel met your requirements. I'm stunned the way your gauges fit those holes. I knew the small ones would fit, but didn't realize how at home the big ones would look. It's very unusual for a 1920's gauge panel to have the specs to house modern sized gauges, without a lot of tweaking of the holes. With that one, you couldn't do a lot of alteration without ruining that amazing factory scrollwork (pinstriping?). You seem to have the one panel that lent itself to proper customization without ruining the original intent of the gauge panel. Sweet! I believe the hump was meant to go on the top, but having it on the bottom might even look better. You da man!
In my Avatar
Don't think I've posted any of these photos before. This is the dash on our roadster.
And this is the gauge cluster I made for the '62 Falcon that we no longer have.
Don't know why those last two pictures don't show up. They are there on my edit screen. Let's try again.
Falcon gauge cluster:
They're here now. I'm confused.
Bumping up with my WIP dash.
1938 dash in my 31 Tudor. Pain in the butt, as I didn't use the original dash rail. Built the top and side extensions from scratch.
My 41 PU after getting yet another coat of pink primer this weekend. It is a stock dash that I took liberties with, rounding the bottom all the way across, moved all of the switches, including ignition, to the left side with indicator lights and a raised middle section that will house some non hamb friendly stuff behind a drop down door. Glove box door has a 41 merc clock in it and spring latches in the corners. The upper valance is also block sanded, both are just about ready for some shiny black paint.
This old photo is about as close to the dash of our own 1940 Willys Coupe that we built for the B/Gas Class and then in the 2nd edition a 671 blower on an 292 c.i. SBC for the C/Gas Class. Welded in steel plates to give the frame some rigidity and support. Not bolted in, but welded as per drag racing rules for body modifications as per the tech committee. If the steel plates were bolted in, B/Gas. Since they were welded in strategic locations over the rear axle, C/Gas as it increased the overall weight.
This Willys dash had most of what we had, including red primer paint on the dash and whole interior bare metal. Our dash had a big chrome Sun Tachometer in front of the driver. A 4 spoke steering wheel and a Moon Foot Pedal without the strap over the toe. In the passenger seat footwell, a Moon Aluminum Gas Tank and Pump was bolted to the floor.
We kept our dash simple and all of the dash lights worked as the headlights, taillights and brake lights had to work for the rules of a street legal Gas Coupe competition. The firewall was set back the legal 10% distance as per class rules.
The last look of our 40 Willys Coupe was in a scrapyard with the whole interior no longer a Red Primer. It was a basic burnt out Black, with White extinguisher spray all over everything. The only thing left was similar to the photo as the steering wheel was all metal with no rubber coating, the tach was melted and gone, while the foot pedal was also missing due to the extreme heat from a gasoline fire. The missing Moon Tank left some bolts through the floorboard. All gauges were now missing from the extreme heat.
Add all of the missing or melted pieces and add in several chunks of the clutch, flywheel and scattershield embedded into the dash and door sills. It was not a nice way to remember the end…
I’ll throw my hat in the ring, 1952 Buick Special coupe. A work in progress.
My 35 Olds and my 57 F100
Installed our dash Friday and hooked up most of the wires. Now I need to find the new speedometer along with the rest of the little parts.
Did my 32’ a few weeks ago. Pulled out my old aircraft sheet metal tools and away I went!
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