Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Found it. Awesome build you got going on there.

 

Here is a Canadian kid, well compared to me he is a kid. Does some kool how to videos on all kinds of shaping.

 

Yes, I watch his videos, good explanations too.

 

Same, he presents the info in an easy for me to consume way!

 

I hate that stupid turned up bill hat he has as his signature piece.

 

^^^^ Me too, but he's got talent and what I see of the car isn't all bad either

 

I don't care if he wears a dress and a garter belt. I'd like to get to know him.

 

Here's a little job I just did for a group of brass era restorers. Moderators, feel free to delete it if it is too far OT to be traditional.

A friend needed an oil can caddy for his 1904 Rambler running board. I made him one. Then he said :"Fine, can you make six more?"
I didn't even know seven 1904 Ramblers existed but he said, "They do, and every one of them needs this part."

While it was not an extremely difficult part to make, what I learned is making multiple exact copies of the same part is more challenging than I thought. It required making jigs and fixtures that took almost as much time as hammering out the part itself.
Enjoy

 

Does stainless count?
59Dodge

 

This is the kind of content the HAMB needs more of

 

Wow, great skills and effort saving those pieces!

 

Since my search for someone to cut up and sell me this piece of an "A " Coupe qtr. has been fruitless , I'm gonna try and make it myself..Never done anything like it and I have nothing but hand tools..So , I guess its patterns/buck/hammerform/Google/YouTube time ..This piece has more curves than Betty Page !!! Any suggestions/hints appreciated..practicing up on my language skills also..
This is the side I need to make:


This side is for reference ..measurements ,patterns ,etc

 

First tip: Move your tape to only a couple inches each side of the damaged area. Make as small a piece as possible.

 

Pugsy : I'm only concentrating on the body bead profile and making a 21" x 2 1/2" piece.. to replace just the damaged area...

 

I’ll be interested in this also, most model A trunk lid openings seem to sweep in towards the lid between the top and bottom edges of the lid. You don’t often see parallel gaps between the 2. Most of the qtrs I look at are like this.
Is the side you are using for reference straight or curved also?

 

View attachment 5259052

Barrel : Th edge towards the decklid opening seems to be straight.. The outside edge of the bead on the top of the quarter tapers (widthwise ) gradually in a gentle arc towards the bottom of the opening.. Its much narrower at that lower point. I've bent a 90degree 5/8" leg x 2 1/2" width on a piece 21" long..then I shrunk the 5/8" leg to the contour of the trunklid opening My plan is to then make a hammerform for the body bead that arcs the same . Using the hammerform , I'll form the bead. Then I'll then trim to about 3/8" past the outside edge of the body bead and weld that in... My thought is to make just enough panel to replace the damaged area

 

Turbo, that metal looks solid, why cut it out and do all that welding that will shrink, warp and cause all those problems that will have to be ground and planished? With the exception of the flange that backs up the drain channel you can access the back of the bead and with a dolly shaped to match the bead you can planish that area. Get a slide puller with a c-shaped finger to pull the flange closer to the deck lid. Remember, you are smarter than the metal and with the effort you have put into solving the problem by cutting, shaping and welding, you can convince the metal to return to it's original shape. For a small project like this you can hand make and shape a mild steel dolly with a handle to fit inside the bead.

 

Redo : Thanks for the advice..The damaged metal was way overworked by the PO to the point of less than paper thin and stretched , with many pinholes...The bead is not only crushed flat ,but it has a great bow to the outside.. As far as a dolly ,I've tried that...I also tried pulling the the bow into the opening with a C shaped puller ..That bead width tapers from the top to the bottom of the opening ...The outside edge is a gentle ,but inconsistent curve
When I got the body it had no trunklid and looked as if something had fallen on top of the lt trunk opening...
Thanks again for the advice
Stan

 

I would totally fix that spot.

 

ok so what is this little swaging guy for? I got some gear from a chemical manufacturing company. They did all their own plumbing and metal fab of what ever was needed

 

I've seen a similar roller to seal tin can lids.

 

Bubble flare a large tube?

 

Could be as it has a similar depth to a crox tool for flaring small tube.

 

Just got done repairing some cracks and 85 years of dings and dents on this 36 Chevy fender.

 

That's some nice metal finishing there.

 

Nice work! A couple of questions...

Did you cut out and replace a longer piece of wire on the lip?
Why is there a “flap”on the leading edge?

 

Nice result, but before and after doesn't tell much of the story, where are all the progress pictures?

 

Looks better than new! Nice work on the fender @66gmc !

 

Thanks, and sorry I forgot to take any pictures along the way, but I made a few videos detailing how I did the repairs.

 

Thanks, I ended up being able to save most of the original wire, I replaced about a 1" section. The flap was part of an old modification from when this truck was going to be put on a newer frame, but it's back on the original frame now.