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Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jhnarial, Sep 16, 2008.

  1. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,396

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Leaving the edge big like that is a great tip! I've had trouble just as you said, not any more I hope!

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    RidgeRunner and loudbang like this.
  2. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

  3. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,982

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
    rockable and loudbang like this.
  4. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    Haha. Trade secret. I did that on a hand brake in the 80's. When I look at it I wonder how I did it.
     
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  5. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,982

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    I am looking at my brake and wondering as well....How the...
     
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  6. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,107

    pitman

    The end Tip knows...upon closer exam.:p ("Observe Watson, observation!")
    Doubling layer too. ;)
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
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  7. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    Actually I hesitated before posting that. After seeing all the work that I consider "real" sheet metal work (stretching/shrinking/ complex/compound curves) I figured you all would just do an eye-roll and hit <.
     
  8. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    Starting on the other end of the hood brace, this one not as rotted as the other but has issues just the same. One of those "while we're here" things....
    The ribs are trimmed and ends rounded.. A piece of flat 16 gauge is trimmed to fit..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    tacked together....

    [​IMG]

    ….then the photographer went on strike until we got to this...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We'll get this trimmed and installed tomorrow..
     
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  9. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    Found a shelf casualty on the new winch we bought for the car trailer, appears the box was dropped at some point or this controller connector is just garbage.

    [​IMG]

    Being a Sunday with little open to fix this, lets see what we can do.. Measurements....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Trying out some plastic fusion welding using a soldering iron... we better hide that...

    [​IMG]

    Used socket as a dowel pin, hammer form plates cut out of 10 gauge steel scraps.. Our cover will be made out of polished stainless for resistance to the elements.

    [​IMG]

    Just resting here for the picture, but one "tab" was clamped in the vise, vise grips clamped the open side, and the flange hammered over. Pulled out, rotate, repeat. About 5 minutes later and we are done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Installed...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That should hold us..

    .
     
  10. ^^^Problem solved, better than when new^^:)
     
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  11. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    that's classy.
     
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  12. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,275

    mickeyc
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just recently learned of this Ram Board material being
    used for templates and patterns. I checked around and found it available at the Lowes store here locally. They
    carry one thickness only. I saw that there is a commercial grade that is thicker. I would like to know
    if the thinner material is suitable for templates or is
    the commercial grade necessary for better results. The
    lighter material is available on the shelf. The commercial grade is special order and more expensive.
    Opinion anyone?
     
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  13. what type of panel holders do you use for butt welding panels together that vice grips cannot reach? i have a firewall section im working on

    magnets?
    the harbor frieght butt clamps?

    something better please.

    i am gas welding in place. no mig or tig.
     
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  14. A 2 B
    Joined: Dec 2, 2015
    Posts: 187

    A 2 B

    Home Depot has a similar but thicker product called X-Board you might want to look at.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. Look at this post.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...c-sheet-metal-butt-welding-clamp-v2-2.480336/

    I also made mine...with a tube,spring,washers and some springy pallet strapping strap..
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/butt-welding-clamp-2-0.1173156/#post-13323318

    These guys will have better options tho.
     
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  16. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member


    I've used rare earth magnets to hold the part, just have to stay far away enough to get the tacking in place done without overheating them.


    [​IMG]
     
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  17. 123pugsy
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 46

    123pugsy
    Member

    Yep, rare earth magnets. The damn things kept pulling my rod when trying to lay the first tack, ha....



    IMG_0993.jpg IMG_0994.jpg IMG_0998.jpg IMG_1002.jpg
     
  18. chrisp
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 868

    chrisp
    Member

    Didn't have the problem of the arc being pulled away too?
     
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  19. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I have.

    Where you have the room try using offset barbs with Clecos...

    Buck headrest 15.jpg

    Buck headrest 16.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
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  20. 123pugsy
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 46

    123pugsy
    Member

    It does go squirrely if too close. If kept far enough away, a quick tack and take the magnets away.
     
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  21. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,275

    mickeyc
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I use magnets similar to the ones MP&C shows.
    Mine are two inches in diameter and quite strong.
    Putting a handle on them was necessary to facilitate
    removal. As previously stated they will disrupt a mig
    weld puddle if it gets close to the magnet.
     
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  22. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    More progress on the hood, here is the other end of the hood brace.


    [​IMG]


    Looking at the back side, you can see where a few holes were welded closed the last time it was painted, and the severe pitting and new holes that we have. A testament to the fact that what shows is always the tip of the iceberg. Although better than the passenger side, this is definitely one of those "while we are here" things. Do it right, do it once. (grinder marks were mine)


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    With our new replacement all one piece, the next step is to bend the flange that spot welds to the hood skin. A tipping wheel in the Fasti-werks bead roller makes quick work of it. The bend line was transposed from the original and an initial pass under the tipping die marks the crease line a bit better, Then successive passes are made, lifting slightly with each pass. This is done until the beads interfere with the tipping die.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Then the partial bent flange is clamped in the magnetic brake for the remainder of the fold. This brake allows us to use a die on either side of the bead details, where a full die may inadvertently push in on the beads.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    End gets cut to length and marked for initial trimming


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Looks like we may have enough bead stock left for another couple of ends.


    [​IMG]



    That's where we left off yesterday, we'll see about welding the new end on today..



    .
     
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  23. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    Our last end for the hood brace. Off with the old.....

    [​IMG]

    Then it gets trimmed to our scribe line and the end media blasted in prep for welding. Our new end is test fit and trimmed until we get the right distance to our reference marks. The "batwings" give us a heat sink at the edge for less chance of burning back the edge at the weld.

    [​IMG]

    The center rib is aligned both on the sides and the face, and tacked in position using the TIG.

    [​IMG]

    The pieces are aligned as we work outward, tacking as we go. A "corking tool" is used as a dolly where any bumping may be needed for alignment.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tacked...

    [​IMG]

    Welded....

    [​IMG]

    Welds cleaned up and end angles compared..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now we can get back to straightening sheet metal..
     
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  24. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Awesome attention to detail that'll never be noticed by the casual observer! Many thanks
     
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  25. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 986

    33Doll

    I use those earth magnets, but the mig welder hates them, splatter and pop, I just use it for a real weak tack, then get them off, and then do a real tack.
    Same with copper backing plate, my welder hates that too. Splatter plop-fizzzle... IMG_9322.JPG
     
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  26. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    We have a few more spots to fix from cracking and fatigue, namely the holes on the underside for the rubber hood bumpers. We've already repaired three, and from the looks of it, need to take care of the remaining three..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    18 Gauge x 1/4" plugs were TIG welded in to fill the existing holes, and a copper backer gives us a bit of a heat sink so the cracks/fatigued areas don't blow a big hole on us..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Welds were dressed on both sides of the sheet metal, and new holes drilled slightly in farther from the edge to help slow down the reappearance of cracks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next, I'm sure everyone has seen how these hoods can oil can, show low spots, and try to flop around while driving down the road. Part of that is abuse over the years, fatigue, etc. Any low spots invariably result in a loss of support of the hood and will show oil cans or loose areas.

    [​IMG]

    A good tool to check the crown of the hood is a long straight edge in the form of a 36" rule. If you don't have one, most hardware stores sell aluminum flat bar for a few dollars that will make a good profile template. For this style hood, lows are bad, straight is better, and a slight crown in the center crease along the entire length of the "flat" area of the hood is optimal.. This gives the support to help eliminate those oil cans and floppy hoods.

    When we started there was an obvious area about 12" forward of the rear edge, dead center, that appears low, and was easily pushed downward. In order to better define the center crease and provide the support needed, we will use a sand bag (a rather large one) and lightly hammer from the bottom side into said bag with a purpose built "punch".

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In order to keep the back portion of the hood down against the bag for support, we used our latest "metalshaping" tool to hold the front of the hood up, an engine hoist..

    [​IMG]

    A reference mark is used on the inside, measured and centered...

    [​IMG]

    The crease was checked for low spots prior, and the bottom marked. The "punch" is dragged along the centerline and tapped as you go. Flip the hood over, check crown, remark as needed, repeat. We got to a good straight/slight crown and the oil can disappeared. Pushing along the entire center crease was a nice tight support now..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So if you are having issue with your hood, I would suggest first checking your center crease.
     
  27. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I LOVE your attention to detail, like the bumper hole repairs.


    I was fortunate to acquire a set of sweeps at an auction. These were once used by auto companies in their drafting rooms to lay out body lines on full size drawings. (Fun Fact: There are very few "flat" surfaces in an auto design. Virtually all panels have a crown to them.) Now all the companies use CAD technology so these are "obsolete" in the auto design business and as such sometimes come up for sale at auctions and on line. They are sometimes referred to as "mold sweeps". Mine are stamped with the radius in inches. I just want to give everyone a "heads up" that they exist and are useful for car building.

    I used one to replace the wooden roof support in an Anglia with a metal one.


    sweeps 01.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
  28. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,378

    MP&C
    Member

    Nice score!
     
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  29. choppednslammed
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 149

    choppednslammed
    Member

    My latest work for my 1964 Comet 1/4 panel lowers .. unable to buy reproductions so I had to make them. Not the easiest to replicate that’s for sure!

    IMG_2079.JPG IMG_2090.JPG IMG_2094.JPG IMG_2092.JPG IMG_2093.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  30. 123pugsy
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 46

    123pugsy
    Member

    Very nice panels.
     
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