Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Here it's getting close.

I really went a little to far with the shrinker dies. It was a good thing because I was able to wheel out most of the marking. I really like this wheel. I built it really stiff, so with high pressure the wheels stay in alignment.

 

Looking good Jeff

Great post.Looks like it will be in one piece.Keep the pictures coming.

You don't have a source on 4140 tubbing do you?I know you have a golden dumpster

 

No 4140 tubing I'm afraid. Are you planning a frame for the kids new ride? You should form up a set of 32 rails.

Yep, one peice. Looks like the crank might hit the fender when I put the crease in though. I'm going to make a rubber top wheel and a tipping wheel for the cradle. You know flip them around.....

 

Hey Keith, Those Maxwell fenders have come a long way since I last seen them! Your work is tops ! Bill Harrison

 

Thanks Bill,

Your turn to post your sheet metal tricks.

 

Well it fits the pattern now. I know it dosn't look much like the 36 fender yet, but an hour with the rubber upper wheel it will.

I trimmed it down a bit too. I'm making a seperate patch for the cracked bead. Here is my helve hammer. I put a few miles on it with this project. I need to make some feet for it that keep it from moving around. I hits like a 20lb sledge hammer. I use rubber bump stops on the top (from HAMB member Brickster).
Sorry about the dark picture

I have to trim the edge to a good fender yet. Then I can start getting the fender formed into the correct arrangment.

 

I made some progress. I finished the lip around the edge today. I didn't have my camera though. Here are some pictures of the tools I had to make up. Vice grips for bending the lip.


This was for marking the edge. I used a nice painted fender to mark my pattern so I glued some fabric to the face.

And I made up a dolly with the shape of the lip to planish it out.

I just have to make a jig to clamp the fender to and I'll be ready to cut and weld.

 

I might as well post a happy ending. I welded the peice in today and it went ok. I still need to add the crease in the top and do a little more finishing.

 

All I have to say is.........Badd Ass! http://www.docsmachine.com/rage/index.html

 

I've been a car guy for 30 years and all the talent in this thread is friggin' AWESOME. Thanks for the inspiration, everyone!

-90% Jimmy

 

Hi,

Here i am giving the demo for common metal forming.

1. Completely spun - Ends formed using this technique are spun over a tool, which has both the spherical and the knuckle radii. This allows the end to be formed entirely on one spinning machine.

2. Press and Flanging - A contract specific spherical radius is formed using specialist hydraulic Boldrini presses. Following this the required knuckle radius is spun using Boldrini flanging units.

3.Spin and flanging - Unlike pressing, the spherical radius is formed by spinning the plate blank against a fixed forming tool. Forming of the knuckle radius is made in the same way as pressed ends.



http://purdie.co.uk/

 

Strange metal forming. Ever seen this before?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxysBla3NyI[/URL]

 

Some of the talent by you guys is unreal. Thanks for sharing.

Ed

 

I've already posted this on another thread but here are some pics

 

Got a question....

second picture down on the left. How do you put that edge (or lip) on the side like that? Is that a cut and weld, or a special tool?

 

I built a power beadroller and some half round dies, you roll half the radius on one piece and roll half the radius on another and weld it down the center then metal finish it .
Now a question for you how much for the power hammer ? Pat

 

Here's one without the top parts welded on you can see the half radius.Pat

 

Pat,

The Baileigh Power hammer is built right here in Wisconsin and is $20,595. It comes with an English wheel attachment. We offer tons of tooling for it. It will work as an English Wheel as well. You can dead blow like a Pullmax, if your not in the mood for that just flip a lever and you have leaf spring action like a Yoder. It will accept Pullmax and Yoder tooling.

 

It's been a while since I last posted.

There hasn't been no free time for me to spend in the shop lately.I was able to get one day in this weekend.Well actually two days but the first day was clean up and replacing light bulbs but Sunday was all mine.

Sure felt good to put on some good tunes and getting back at it.Summer sure slows progress down.Kinda of looking forward to winter.

I was able to get my fender well welded in.Sure looks better on the car then on my bench.It sat on the bench long enough.Going to take a flex pattern off of this one and shape the other side starting next weekend.

 

Nice work

 

This thread is inspirational!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brian

 

Some of my work. JW

 

Pullmax work. JW

 

Pullmax photos. JW

 

Amazing! This is a great thread! Metalmeet.Com is a pretty cool site, but no site is executed as well as the HAMB for following tech stories.

I remember back in '89 watching some older guy on a sidewalk in Shanghai work with nothing more than a hammer and an iron stump (maybe made out of an old indistrial wheel cart or small train car?) pound round disks made of old street signs into woks. Amazingly smooth work. They had almost an "engine turned" look to them because of the consistent spacing of the hammer blows. I bought a dozen of them and tipped him because I enjoyed watching the process. At that time tips were not culturally accepted (almost like a bribe) -- oops!

 

Got a little practice in yesterday.I thought I would share my results.

I sheared 4 pieces 5'' by 3'.Two of the pieces to be welded by just skipping around and cooling between each series of weld.The other two pieces to be welded as I have been welding lately.

I am trying to show the advantages of welding sheet metal,the way I was taught.

I am still learning myself,it's one of the reasons for the practice today.Plus I wanted to see the difference for myself.The first set is how I was welding before I found Metal Meet.

Here goes...With out metal finishing the weld.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



I tacked the panel in inch increments.




What I noticed was even with just the tacks,the panel has already started warping.





Next I started filling in between each tack.Skipping around and cooling the weld completely every inch of welding.

What I noticed here,without re-stretching the haz,the panel is getting worse with every new section of weld.




After I finished welding the panel,it was sure apparent this panel was in pretty bad shape.




Sure glad that's not welded to my car.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Metal finishing the weld.

I started off by tacking it the same way as I did the other panel.Except I ground down the proud of the weld of the tacks,flipped the panel over and re-stretched the haz of the weld on each tack.









Now I filled in between each tack.Starting from the center and alternating sides until I reached the end of the panel.




I finished each inch of weld the same as I finished the tacks.

After getting the panel welded you sure can tell the difference between the two of them.



I know it sounds like a lot more work,well thats because it is.

 

This from awhile ago.........

Top for a 34 Cabriolet












Tim