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Lets see how it fits AV8

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by telecustom, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    Well I got to get my engine running it's been sitting for to long and just begging to be started. I'll be keeping it simple till the cash flow is going better. So far I have a mild stroker 59a flathead, L100 cam, Denver heads, Edmunds 2x2. Also 1930 model A coupe starts and stops. The guy I bought it from bought it at an estate sale so the price was right for a coupe that nice.

    This what I'm looking to do with It... I'll be using both model a banjo and I beam with model a brakes. I know I know Not looking good at all. I have a '36 V8 banjo and front juice brakes so far and want to do a proper and safer build but with money tight I just want to get the engine running. This set up is not going to be how my build will stay, only for the summer come fall I'll be tearing it apart to do it right.

    The frame will be un-boxed. I'm not quite happy with it both front and rear cross members have been changed, and just behind where the banger engine mounts on the rails are cracked and have been repaired improperly. I'll be keeping my eyes open for a better frame.

    Now so far with the K-member at what I believe is at 47'' from spring perch to wishbone ball looks as if the engine is to far forward. Also banjo bell looks not close to the trans. I believe I have to go back about 3/4'' to 1 1/2''. The only parts I'm missing are the bells for the trans. If I had the parts could I size it up from the back of the trans for front mounts and wishbones? I'll be out there tomorrow to re-measure and try again.

    All in all here is some inspiration...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. garth slater
    Joined: Apr 17, 2008
    Posts: 263

    garth slater
    Member
    from Melbourne

    Do you think that amybe you should look at fitting juice brakes? I know you said moneys tight, why not drive it with the banger in it until you can afford some more safety features.... funerals are expensive :)
     
  3. coupster
    Joined: May 9, 2006
    Posts: 860

    coupster
    Member
    from Oscoda Mi

    Looks good to me For me Hot rodding is all about doing with what you have avaliable, you can always upgrade later. Just keep in mind the limits of mechanical brakes when your out driving around.
     
  4. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,008

    FiddyFour
    Member

    not for the guy in the box

    if all you want to do is "get it fired" and hear it run... put it on a test stand

    dont make the mistake of "i'll just run it like it is" just for the sake of running it, and skip important shit...shake it off an keep building.
     

  5. trickassfoo
    Joined: Mar 10, 2011
    Posts: 1

    trickassfoo
    Member

    Mechanical brakes eh.., we don't wanna see any smushed yavin's. keep it simple and get it driving, that's the best motivation for a project when you have no monetary funds.
     
  6. Capitan Insano
    Joined: Apr 29, 2007
    Posts: 289

    Capitan Insano
    Member

    So you are running a single groove pulley and electric fan.
     
  7. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    Mechanical brakes are deadly if your upping the horsepower ante that's for sure. My steering box needs some fine tuning so death trap all around. As for the fan I know a guy who has '33-35 fan mounted generators, for starts I was thinking 6 volts but talking to him, he can have it changed to an alternator in the generator case with a better bearing. I'm trying to keep it late '40's trad rod, with out cutting the fire wall.
     
  8. blindowl
    Joined: Nov 2, 2008
    Posts: 693

    blindowl
    BANNED
    from MASS

    Run the mechanical brakes !!!!! Turn the drums down , re-arch the shoes to match the drums and get a flathead ted float kit and you will stop just as good as juice brakes . check his site or typr in flathead ted on you tube . He locks up a 33 ford with mechanical brakes , mine work just as good . model a frame , T roadster body and 49 flatty
     
  9. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    Nice I've heard about the flathead ted set up on Banger monthly. For the last week I've been working on balancing the mech brakes with the banger in. But if I do a full over hall of the mech brakes I'll look into a set, also link on new cast iron drums. > http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...highlight=cast . This is a link on putting juice cylinders in a model baking plate another good option. > http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...backing+plates

    This is what I have found with the banjo/trans bells all hooked up. As I posted earlier this is with the model banjo, and with just the trans in she sits like this, from trans input shaft to rear of front stock cross member 25 1/2''. With the flathead in, front mount to rad mount is 6 1/4''. And wishbones are 40 1/4''. thous the model A banjo is too short by 1 1/4'', the engine is right on the fire wall, the body can still be mounted up but the engine doesn't look right that far back. Maybe in a 28,29 body with the different fire wall. This is probably why early hot rods had split model A wishbones.

    So for now the Banger will get this frame and I'll start looking for another Model A frame, then I can get the 37 banjo in place, Lincoln brakes with 2'' dropped model I beam, box rear section of the frame and get that flathead sitting right with un-split wishbones.
     
  10. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    Oh man old thread, it fits like this...
    [​IMG]
     

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