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"Let's light this fuze" the July 2012 Banger Meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Jul 1, 2012.

  1. Thanks Sturgis !:)
    Ron
     
  2. Dustyp489
    Joined: Feb 1, 2008
    Posts: 223

    Dustyp489
    Member

    STURGIS

    Thanks for the info, saw kits for 3 carbs but nothing for 2. Now I will see if I can get a setup to work
    Thanks again
    Skip
     

  3. You can use parts of the three carb progressive linkage. I have taken some pictures this morning. I tried to find the box of parts that I made that worked kind of. The ones I made took a hack saw and an electric drill to fabricate. I filed the edges and they looked almost like store bought. I had fun making the parts and playing with the jets and trying different combinations. It is running good right now but every time I show boat something stops working.

    The gas station is my friends. The picture of the yellow fan was with the engine running. I does not show useful information. I just went back to the two blade from a four blade. I think they look neat.

    The catalog pictures are from Sacramento Vintage Ford and Secretes of Speed Magazine. The SoS does not advertise their progressive linkage kit so you may have to e-mail them. He is closed during the week for one day and I do not remember which day he is closed. Charlie Yapp is his name. Speedy Bill sells some parts too but they are not shown in the recent catalogs.
     

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  4. Fly'n Kolors
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 407

    Fly'n Kolors
    Member

    Hey Sturgis39 that is good info I can use. I dig your Riley RPU. I have a pick between a Zepher and Thomas 2 deuce for my '28 RPU with a B diamond engine. Current setup is Thomas A head, Burns downdraft/ single 97, Mallory duel point and header. I want a ride in yours when I'm in Sturgis working the rally July 30 to Aug. 12, if you have time.
     
  5. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    Hope you have picked up on the new banger block in the works on the main thread
     
  6. So I paid off my debts and I am back collecting much needed parts for a 3 port topped '25 Chev 4 that will be going into a new '25 Chev roadster.

    First piece off the list, not a Jewett but very close, any guesses? :D I need to or have fabricated a new blank end plate and have the body drilled and tapped where the part number is. Next item on the list is a B counter balanced crank or a Model A Mallory ignition.

    [​IMG]

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    Also I bought these

    [​IMG]

    I couldn't pass them up for $10 + P&H will post more pics when they arrive.
     
  7. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Good to see you back, Jimmy!

    Any story come with the rods?

    How long are they?

    Herb
     
  8. Model B distributor,

    Bought a pair of weights and springs from FS. Supposedly will give 29 degrees. I didn't ask but was probably told it would be all in by 2,000 RPM's probably quicker. I did call and was told that, yes, you get a full 29 degrees advance. I will time to TDC and advance from there. Might time at 5 or so depends on where the zero (TDC) ends up

    Bought a B distributor point cam from one of the "big" suppliers. It has tool marks, looks like it was cut with an end mill on a CNC. Bought a couple from Renner"s, he says made by Specialty Cams (Bill Stipe). Looking at them, the one from Renner's much better finish. Totally looks better. Had 3 shafts replaced by Renner's they press off the plate then tack weld plate on to a new shaft. I replaced the bearings in one so far, drilled 5/32 oil hole and pressed in place. Out of the three I'm messing with 2 had no oil holes, the other had the bearing pressed in below the oil hole. Been told by an expert that the only way to do this right is to full the original oiler out and drill hole and replace oiler you destroyed pulling it out. The new oilers are nickel plated so might look better if you replace it.

    Picked up a pair of NOS round caps slightly less than current price and I'm sure good quality.
     
  9. NICE finds, Jimmy! So what's the info on the pump and rods :D???
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012
  10. [​IMG]

    hello everyone, im new to the HAMB, but iwe read all the banger treads back from 07.. im about to start a model a for my own and i love the photos here, thx for the inspiration.. also, im sorry for my typos..
    Have a nice day :)
     
  11. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Welcome, Kjell!

    I see that you have a frame--be sure to check that it does not have a "sag" in the middle- about where the rear of the engine sits. Most frames are bent to some extent in that area, but it isn't a hard job to straighten them with a jack and a steel beam, or large piece of timber.

    And don't worry about your English--we will be able to figure out what you mean.
    As the saying goes--"Your English is a lot better than my Norwegian"


    Herb
     
  12. TBone69
    Joined: Aug 21, 2007
    Posts: 833

    TBone69
    Member
    from NJ

    Hey Folks,

    I plan on pulling the motor and trans from my chassis this weekend. Problem is the head is off the motor and only a stud or two in the block. Figure I would get a lenght of chain and some bolts and washers to attach to the deck.

    Question is what size bolts would I need and is there a better attachment point I should use.

    Thanks
    TBone
     
  13. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I use the furthest front intake hold down stud and one of the bolts that holds the starter in.

    The head stud holes are 7/16-14 and can be used also.

    .
     
  14. TBone69
    Joined: Aug 21, 2007
    Posts: 833

    TBone69
    Member
    from NJ

    Thanks CrazyDaddyO, intake and starter off it as well head stud holes it is.
     
  15. Thanks Herb!

    Not sure what they are out of, I saw them while searching ebay and remembered the discussion about tubular rods on the '28 Chev thread so I bid. The listing said 11" centre to centre.



    Thanks! You don't want to guess? It is out of early 30s Continental straight 8 produced for Graham-Paige.
     
  16. VERY cool- I need to keep my eyes out for things like that!

    Hey, if anyone's interested, I have a box of NOS Firestone SH 140 Polonium plugs on espay right now (they fit Model A). Selling them to help my folks out, but if anyone objects to the post, I'll be happy to delete it :)
     
  17. Thx, the frame looks okey, and the banger for it will hopefully arive in a few monts.. a model b (not running tho...) now i just need some springs and some wheels.. the body will be a ''half'T'', a model A cowl with a model t turing back(doors welded) and a turtledeck :)

    ps; i do belive you about the Norwegian... :)

    Kjell Elias (17 years old btw) :)
     
  18. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    Good work Kjell watching your project from the other end of the world.
     
  19. Thx, i will hopfully get to start when the motor is in the garage :) looking for springs :) im hoping the wheels come with the engine (19'')
     
  20. Another method, angle iron has holes to adjust for angle/weight. Nylon strap tied with square knpt
     

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  21. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I picked up the last major piece for the Rajo T engine :

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    [​IMG]
     
  22. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,461

    noboD
    Member

    CDO, can you exlain how this works? Do the dual points act normal{ offset by 2 or 3 degrees} and fire both caps at one time? Or does one set of points fire one cap and the other fire the second cap? Two coils?
     
  23. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Two Coils. Two separate ignitions.

    With centrifugal advance and manual advance.


    .
     
  24. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    thats a rare find and in incredable condition it should really make that twin plug head perform this will be a nice period motor all the good stuff
     
  25. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    my buddy put his speedster up for sale on E-Bay HERE
    I wish I had a place to put it. It's a lot of fun to drive.
     
  26. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    ^^^^^^
     

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  27. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    Not as cool as yours. But I made it myself for my Plymouth banger. Made the head too. Used Pinto distributors
     

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  28. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Help!!!

    Yesterday I hoped on the freeway to my sons house 16 miles, then up San Gabriel Blvd. to the mountains in Altadena, Eaton Cyn. for a hike. Jumped on the 210 to the 605 then pulled off the freeway before the 10. That's when it started started sputtering. I'd floor it & it would sputter home, like it was running out of gas. However it did sputter me home, real sorry, no power at all, even on the slightest incline. When I let the clutch out no power, when I push it in it kind of idel up. It Had proper fuel pressure, I pulled the line hit the switch & fuel was fine.

    Last night I did a quick rebuilt (carb seemed clean, so just a new kit.) & the same thing, it'll start but I have to hold the gas pedal down. Carb right? I took it back apart & have it soaking now. But now I wondering if it's the points? Will it still run if the point went bad? Since the 12v conversion on Monday it's been driving great everyday, all week. I hesitant on the 12v conversion cause I heard it burns points??? Im really not too familiar with points.
     
  29. TV
    Joined: Aug 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,451

    TV
    Member

    If it were me I'd pull the plugs and have a look. Run a compression test. If that looks good check the distb. By then you should know what the problem is. Don't over think these engines . --TV
     
  30. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    #1 & #2 looked blask powdery, #3 & #4 looked a little more wet, gas smelly but .40 gap which I put to .35 like #1& #2.
     

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