leaky 9inch axle ends?

I currently rebuilt the 9inch and put all new bearings and seals in it. When I drive down the road gear oil is working it's way out and spraying all over the side of the car. I pulled the axles out and I see nothing that is wrong. I put ultra black silicone around the outside of the seal and in between the retaining flange to maybe help it. It worked for a little while but it comes out of the end of the retaining flange on the axle. It looked like the seal set ok because when I pulled it out it wasn't all mangled up it was straight.
I'm not sure if It's coming out of the outer part of the seal or the inner part of the seal where the axle sits and spins?
What do you all think and recommend? and it's both sides. big bearing 31spline 68inches wide

 

Sue you didn't put too much gear oil in there?

 

I filled it up to the fill plug

 

Mine does the same, just enough to keep the backplates greasy, the brakes are ok though. I heard its pretty common and live with it, but interested to hear what others say.

L.P.

 

Is your vent plugged? Housing bent? When you rebuilt it did you change the inner seals and bearing gaskets? Live with it??? Um... It shouldn't do that!

 

I second checking to make sure the vent isn't plugged.

 

If your rear is out of a Ford truck check the inner diameter of the seal,where it rides on the axle.There are two different sizes depending on duty rating of the suspension.To look at them its kinda hard to tell but its enough to cause your problem.Went through this with the guy down at the parts store awhile back.

 

If the axle shafts are old, the seal rubbing area may be worn. It can be repaired with a speedi-sleeve.

 

The vent isn't plugged, the axle shafts are older and I did try to clean up around where the seal seats.

I am curious about a speedi-sleeve????

I don't remember what the inner diameter of the seal was but I think i checked it with calipers and was a little smaller than where it sits on the axle shaft.
the bearing all comes as one, seal-bearing-race-retaining donut, other than that its a bare housing no other seals

If I have to get the bearing and donut off, whats the best way? I have a press to put them on but don't know how to get them off

 

It is a thin metal sleeve used to repair shafts. The 9" Set 20 bearing seal is 1.875" dia.



Here is an install article. It's written for a full floating axle spindle, but the basics are the same;
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/SpeediSleeve/index.html

 

i read this on a racing forum somewhere,i think.but the seal has a small spring inside of it. the poster said take a spring out of another seal and put it in the seal that you are using.thus having 2 springs in the seal. don't know if it works. said it was a old racer trick.

 

I know that some bearings are available with an o-ring around the outside . . . wondering if they might help? I don't know enough about 9" rears, options, years, etc -- to be of help.

Here is a link to a site I saw recently that has a LOT of 9" info -- covers most of the years and variations . . . might be worth a read.

http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

 

G'day, Some Ford rear axles used a gasket on each end of the housing between the axle flange and the bearing retention plate. Not using the gasket will cause the issue you are having.

 

Exactly. You will also notice the paper gasket which you purchase or make will have five holes instead of four. The bottom hole, if you have a bad bearing, will allow the gear oil to leak past the bearing into the unused hole on the bottom of the axle flange. The gear oil will leak to the outside of your backing plate, instead of leaking directly inside of your drum / inside of the backing plate.

 

Mine ruined brakes a couple times. Is there inner axle seals in the tubes?

 

Those look just like the bearings in my racer which cross to a 78 F150. Moser ends/axles. I installed a C/R 15141 INNER seal, had to turn some off the lock. Pack the bearing with grease.

NAPA carries the OEM replacement seal but you have to press the bearing off.

 

I don't have inner axle seals, but if I get the C/R 15141 INNER seal, I can pack the bearings I have?

I did just find out my vent tube was completely shut. I drilled it out and put a 8inch piece of tube off of it, hopefully that helps

 

It's worth a shot!
Pick up a pair of seals, see if they're snug around the axle and will drive in the ends.
If you can run the inner seals you have to turn about .300" off the press on locks.

Although first I would see if opening up the breather will stop the problem.

For what it's worth-I never fill a 9" until it runs out. I fill them until my pinky finger just touches the lube, probably 3/4" to 1" lower than the bottom of the fill bung.

 

Howdy everyone I’m working on my 1959 f100 it has a 9inch an my wheel seals are leaking I was wondering if there was a way to tell what bearings that axle took so I could order them I’m not to familiar with this half ton stuff just 3/4ton an bigger

 

I realize how confusing the above post was lol I’m searching for information on the ford 9inch axle in a 1959 f100 I’m trying to find the correct wheel bearing an wheel seals an races?

 

The tapered roller bearing style like that uses the gear oil for lubrication and cooling. There is no inner seal and IIRC, there is no machined surface inside the tube for a seal.

What usually happened was that the bearing would get sloppy and the sealing surface on the axle gets scarred up by the metal part of the old seal. You may be able to find a sleeve for the surface but if it is out of round from the rubbing you will need to replace the axle.

By the way, I have never been able to successfully remove one of those bearings to change the seal without destroying the bearing.

 

If your axle is original to the truck, it has a ball bearing, not a roller style. It is a totally different set up.

 

If it's the original rear axle, it's a big bearing. Ford 9" bearing sizes explained....
https://www.currieenterprises.com/9-inch-housing-ends-explained
Your truck should have 28 spline axles if it hasn't been modified. These are one-piece sealed ball-type bearings and need to be pressed off/on the axles and and retained by a press-on sleeve. They are NOT lubricated by the gear lube in the housing.
The seal installs inboard of the bearing in the axle housing.

A few things to note. If a bearing has failed, check to make sure it hasn't spun on the axle. If it has and the axle has anything more than very light galling where the bearing presses on, you need a new axle. Also check the axle seal surface for scarring. If it is scarred, there is a repair sleeve available for that, although generally if that surface is that bad there's other issues that will require a new axle. New axles are available from multiple sources if you can't find good used ones.

 

Thanks one trick pony as far as I know it is the original axle everything on this old truck that I’ve replace was original.. I understand about not being able to replace the seal without tearing up the bearing I was just gonna cut my bearings off via grinder an cutting blade an install new seal an bearings .. so it seems I need to take it apart to what I need for sure?

 

Thanks crazy Steve the bearings them selfs are good just the seals went bad the truck sat for 30years an I knew I could change the seal without tearing up the bearings so I was just gonna cut the bearings off an install new seal an bearings

 

Just be very careful when cutting the old bearings off. If you damage the area where the bearing presses on, the axles have been known to develop cracks and the axle can break. If you don't have a press to install the new bearings, I'd recommend taking the axles somewhere to have the bearings removed/installed. Don't try to hammer them on....

 

If the bearings are good, I wouldn't replace them, as they are probably better quality than what you will buy today. Replace the seals in the housing and run it. BTW be sure to make sure the vent is not plugged.

 

Thanks fellas I’ll get it tore apart tomorrow an get some parts ordered if I find anything odd or neat and cool I’ll post it

 

Thanks Marty and while I agree the bearings are probably better quality than I could by today I’m also under the impression that I cannot just change the seal cause I’m the process of getting to the seal you have to remove the wedding band and the bearing wich usually leave them useless but I’ll sure give it a try I’m all about keeping everything original as I can just replaced the clutch master cylinder hose last week it has been on there since probably factory lol

 

Not true. The axle seal is independent of the axle/bearing. Unbolt the axle retainer, pull the axle, and look in the housing; that's where the seal is.

The bearing is sealed, so it doesn't leak....