Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Leaks, rattles and vibrations

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Darin Younce, May 13, 2019.

  1. Been working on all sorts of areas on car. Tightened up some exaust leaks, added a couple hangers after changing out old glass packs to some walker mufflers , tweaked the pipes a bit where they were touching frame. Notices the top of trans was touching the floor and fixed that . Replaced control arm bushings and strut rod bushings . Replaced front shocks , noticed last installer left off lower shock rubber bushing and washer, shock was loose. Replaces u joints on driveshaft and noticed there was no Balancer weight .Could it be he never balanced drive shaft? Not sure but I don't recall ever seeing a drive shaft without a weight, have removed many but in all honesty probably didn't look too close at all of them. Still hage some minor viberations . Think I will get driveshaft checked .
  2. Why not confine your posts to one thread so we can follow along instead of randomly posting a new thread each time that you do something to your car? Carpet dye, vibrations, etc. You're all over the map. Folks may read your post and not even know what car you are referring to. Just a thought.
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  3. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
    Posts: 4,485

    Staff Member


    Darin - just keep updates on your car to this post instead of starting a new post for each step of working on the same car.

    OLSKOOL57 and lothiandon1940 like this.

  4. Well, I haven't kept track of how many threads I have posted but since you apparently have and want to offer your opinion on thread usage rather than some useful info on my many threads which btw totals 4. My 1st thread was on projects , being my very first post I assumed this was appropriate. My 2nd thread was on rust converter and I posted it under Technical , 3rd was projects ( Carpet dye) and finally under hotrods ( Leaks rattle ) I posted some of these from a smart phone and thought I was posting under Hokey Ass message board , didn't realize until I clicked to post that I had to include a prefix and I actually forgot the previous prefix and was not going to back up and search . So now I get a snarky response and even a Moderator agreeing and I gotta say I find it interesting that neither one of you have commented with positive or useful responses on ANY OTHER post or thread I have posted . So in the future , I will be careful and not overload this site with more threads than necessary IF I continue to post .
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. Nothing snarky at all about my thoughts or those of Cob.
  6. OLSKOOL57
    Joined: Feb 14, 2019
    Posts: 174


    Very well said, respectfull and to the point.
  7. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 240


    Darin, you are new here and are getting help from these guys on how to best post on this site. Chill out and go with the flow brother. We are all here to help one another and not looking for opportunities to jump in someone's shit.

    If you are getting vibrations while driving your car, it could be any number of things causing it. One thing to check would be the trans. tail shaft angle in relation to the rear end pinion angle...they should be very close to the same angle (tail shaft down, pinion up) or vibrations will occur. As you noted, an unbalanced driveshaft would also be a cause of vibration while driving. Worn u-joint/s, unbalanced or bent wheel/s, unbalanced brake drum/s are just some of the more common things to look at to track down vibrations. Good luck!
  8. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 2,158

    from Oregon

    Snarky would be ; maybe they are good vibrations ? :D
    Chili Phil and lothiandon1940 like this.
  9. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 21,730

    Jalopy Joker

    at what speed does vibration occur?
  10. Folks, I'm not making an excuse or anything but most of my post are random ( he got that part right) I am usually standing in my shop with grease all over my hands trying to type what ever I wanna say. When I post a new thread , it is usually because to post on a old thread I have started , I have to search a bit on a tiny phone and as you know when you first open the page , there it is right in front of you ( POST NEW THREAD) so to me it is much easier. Another reason is on most forums I have been on , they have asked on occasions to start a thread on the subject if the issue is different .For instance ,a vibration issue is different than a carpet dye issue. So , having said that I feel that the post I referred to as being snarky was in my opinion a bit condescending .Seems to me he put in some effort to point out faults when all I was seeking an opinion on a driveshaft that has no balance weight. On other forums where I have gotten advise on posting , I have either gotten a private message or on the public post , I was given a suggestion but don't recall ever getting a message like "Carpet dye, vibrations, etc. You're all over the map" . I promise you fella's I am not a trouble maker, I am extremely nice to folks in general and am not thin skinned but I am pretty tired of folks either pointing out errors in grammar post structure or whatever but ignoring the subject at hand which is exactly what happened in this case.
  11. Generally all speeds . I understand all the things that could cause vibration but my question is has anyone ever had a driveshaft that had no balance weight welded somewhere? Like I said I have removed countless driveshafts and dont recall seeing a drive shaft without a weight . The reason I ask is I am thinking I should at least have it checked.
  12. Moon50F3
    Joined: Sep 18, 2014
    Posts: 119


    It’s ok man, let’s move on. If it were me, I’d just take the shaft to a driveshaft shop and have them check it. I thought they usually have a weight on them. If you have it checked, at least you’d either know it’s good or have the problem fixed.
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 1,660


    Is this a custom shaft or one that’s used out of an oem application?

    I would first look at collapsed engine, tranny, body mounts
    Exhaust hitting
    Also exhaust to tight , needs to wiggle and dlec
    Steering hitting
    Drive shaft phase
    And trans and diff angles
    All this is free before you spend money to get the shaft inspected

    Tires and wheels good?
    Bent hubs

    Anyways it’s nice posting to one thread
    Consider it a build thread
    Then you and us can see and appreciate your advances
    Pics are nice
    Have fun

    Last edited: May 14, 2019
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  14. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,587


    Yes, I have seen many driveshafts without a balancing weight on them.

    You say the car vibrates at all speeds. Does it also vibrate in neutral (rolling or sitting still)? That will tell us if it's in the engine/trans/clutch, or the driveline, or maybe just wheels/suspension.
    gimpyshotrods and jimgoetz like this.
  15. Thanks , exactly what I wanted to know.
  16. Could be any # of things I am sure , just wanted to know if anyone had experience with a driveshaft that had no balance weight.I probably have seen one but really cant recall and thought it might be an obvious place to start. The vibration is not terrible but enough to get your attention .
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  17. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 1,936


    Like Alchemy said, try to narrow down the vibration to either suspension, or to driveline. To do so, get the car up to speed to where it is vibrating, the put it into neutral. If it still vibrates, then it is probably front or rear suspension, if it stops, then it is probably engine, transmission, or driveshaft. It'll help to point you in the right direction.

    FWIW, (this isn't to try to hijack your thread, but to help guide you by telling my process in trying to find my problem), I'm still chasing a really bad wobble on my '49 F1. Mine is wobbling about 20+ MPH and continues to wobble after dropping into neutral. So far, I've changed out all 4 wheels and tires to ones that are good and balanced. I rebuilt the rear end (it needed it as the pinion seal was leaking and one of the hub bearing seals was leaking) so I went ahead and changed out the 3rd member to a closed diff and changed both axles and bearings in the rear. I changed the drive shaft while I was at it from a 2 piece to a 1 piece (it needed changed). I had both front rotors turned and replaced both front wheel bearings. I replaced the Idler Arm just last week and its still wobbling. All of my control arm bushings and the steering link (its in IFS) are good and nothing shakes or wobbles when I lift it and shake on them. So I'm now to the point that I am taking it to the alignment shop to try to figure it out.

    Good luck on yours and if you figure it out, make sure you post a follow-up for those of us that are following the tread so maybe we can learn what caused your problem.
  18. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,572


    Yeah get the driveshaft balanced, who knows where it actually came from or how it ended up in your vehicle. Its a good idea anytime. Find a large truck or driveline shop near you. Shouldnt have to ship it anywhere.

    Give some details, what Dirk35 mentioned and we can help narrow it down.
    Chili Phil likes this.
  19. harpo1313
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,574

    from wareham,ma

    Try reversing the driveshaft 180 degrees , first thing I would try.
  20. indyjps is correct. Take the driveshaft to a big rig driveshaft shop. It'll be a lot cheaper than a franchise style shop. Good luck.
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 1,660


    Should have been clear in my first post.
    YES I have seen factory oem driveshaft with no weights on them

    You can try rephasing the driveshaft ( unbolt and turn it 180*)

    I have done it in the past to help diagnose drive shaft vibe is either the hose clamp trick or wheel sticky weights
    If you use the sticky weights go 1/8th oz at a time
    Does not take a lot of weight to significantly change tjings
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  22. Been busy but I have a slightly bent axle and a bearing that is questionable so I have taken rear completely apart and will install all new bearings , seals , straighten. Also the trans makes a click every half turn at about where the speed odometer cable goes in side , thinking plastic gears might be bad.
  23. Failed to mention a few things, but when drained the fluid what I got was mucky oil that looked like Mississippi mud. The tubes were full of all sorts of crap , rust whatnot, the ring gear had some pits on several teeth . After further clean up , I noticed the bottom of the right rear drum backing plate was pitted but painted over so I think way back when this was put together by my dad's friend , he must have gotten this drive shaft out of a junk yard and it was sitting on ground where it was exposed to water . I know there can be condensation but this was a lot of rust and the fact the wheel back plate was rusted on lower side . I have since replaced both rear seals and bearings, got another 3rd member ( complete 9" new or like new for $400.00 ) about got it together will see how it does on a few hours. Had work stuff today or else I would be out in shop now finishing up. btw I bought a dash from a fellow on here ( 396skip) really pleased with the dash , good price . I am going to put an adapter on the speedo cable and looked around on the net a bit and found one on speedway( I think) they have this cut to fit type and said I need a 3/4 20 thread connection on trans , I think mine has 5/8 -18 thread seems years ago I would use a stock speedo cable and an adapter not this cut to fit thing , what do yall think, or anyone here know a place to get what I need. I have a 2 speed powerglide . Thanks
  24. Motor mounts are pretty bad. Has a universal type that has a rubber bushing sorta like a shock bushing . The rubber is pretty much gone . Could not find correct size bushing so I bought very strong heater hose the fit perfect where the old bushing was and cut to fit . Big difference . Was metal to metal contact before on motor mount bolt/ frame bracket. Am pleased but would like to change this whole set up to a better m otor mount. Something with more rubber to dampen vibes. Pic shows old crappy bushing, btw underneath chassis needs a total redo as far as cleaning and paint. Will be doing this after all work is done . 20190527_201134.jpg
  25. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,587


    A lot of those type of mounts use a urethane bushing. Same kind as they use in the end of a four-bar link. But if you are trying to fight vibrations, a urethane bushing is rather stiff too.
  26. Yep , stiff does better for control or handling in certain suspension applications but not good in a motor mount . Changed out to rubber and much better. All my vibes are gone.
  27. Anyone here with a mustang 2 setup in older fords (40-48) used an air ride set up vs springs? Curious if the ride is worth price.
  28. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,631

    from omaha ne.

    Glad to see you are making progress Darin!
    Darin Younce likes this.
  29. I sorta took a hiatus from working on the ole cars , did almost daily till 15 or so years ago. A lot more fun than these new cars .
    Frankie47 likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.