Projects Lead Free Solder

I have looked through various threads and have not found any to answer my question. I was wondering when using lead free solder is there a drastic difference in color between the solder and bare metal

 

From pictures I have seen of guys using it the difference is about the same as with the regular lead/tin varieties.

 

No.
The aerospace industry has used lead free solder now for some time. It is the same when viewed with the naked eye.
It is though a little different when viewed using a 5x or higher magnifying glass.
It also "grows" with age (microscopically) so the board designers need to design around this.

Mike

 

I have not used it but have heard that it is a little more difficult to flow and work than traditional lead.

 

Fortunately I've never had to use the stuff. Some of my guitar amp building buddies in countries where leaded solder is prohibited, or who sell products to those countries, have plenty of horror stories regarding lead free solder, namely poor joint integrity, ugly joints and "whiskers" that cause short circuits and inductive distortion. To answer the question, from my understanding lead free solder joints tend to be dull grey, not shiny, and not smooth like leaded solder, the appearance is like a cold solder joint.

http://documents.rs-components.com/EITC/UK/generalFiles/soldering_and_RoHS.pdf

https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-disadvantages-of-lead-free-solder-vs-lead-solder

http://aaq.auburn.edu/node/88

 

You can still get lead solder at stained glass shops. Pricey, though. And, it is occasionally on sale. You ned to use a compatible flux. There is also a very slight difference among the lead solders-50/50 v slightly different from 60-40 but you probably won't be able to tell.

 

http://www.warner-criv.com/
Here you go-and on sale now!

 

What are you using this for that it needs match bare metal? Panel replacement? Filling holes?

 

I am assuming he means body solder not solder for doing wiring when he is concerned with it matching metal.

 

Yep, threw me off, I've been reading threads on body solder technique since I posted. I'll get with it here pretty soon.

Now that I see it, I need to learn it, couple places this could have saved me some trouble.

 

Yes body solder sorry guys

 

I use Eastwood lead free and it does fine and you can grind it not like the other solder.Price is a little higher but what isn't

 

http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/leading-body-solder.html?SRCCODE=MN030110

I've used both lead/tin and lead free solder for plumbing and stained glass work. While I have not done lead body work, in my opinion, lead works better, flows better, seals better than the LF. It is definitely less safe and you need good ventilation/respirator if you are working it. I would never use anything but LF on drinking water plumbing.

 

I also use their nozzle for the oxy/ac tip it just uses no oxy just acelene softer flame works great