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Projects Late 60's Vintage Modified

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shaun1162, Jun 12, 2012.

  1. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Keep up the great work Shaun!!!

    Not to hijack your thread...but here are my drums....
    Alum finned drum (not sure what brand)
    [​IMG]

    Oem cast iron drum
    [​IMG]

    Here is my toy Shaun (although still not quite done, but the grandson loved it!..heck my son loved it!..heck I love it!!!)
    [​IMG]

    And Marty......That Quickie looks mighty familiar, is that a Kollstedt by chance??? I believe mine is....its one of my prize possesions
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,949

    Marty Strode
    Member

    The quick change in the pic, is a "Bart Bilt" (Hollywood, Ca), and your aluminum hubs are "Safety Racing", I have had a few of those through the years! Are you planning to race that "Super"? I like it!!!
     
  3. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    After a bit of snooping I see you stated in the QC thread that yours is a Bart.
    BTW, I also have a 4C hub...no provisions of any sort for a disk or drum brake (RF hub I would imagine, ran it several years on my dirt car about 13 years ago)

    No on racing the super, purely yard art, its litterally thrown together with stuff I had laying around (including rusty roll bar tubing)...I just love looking at it...
     
  4. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    (view out the kitchen window)
    [​IMG]

    Marty
    Ah ya beat me to verifying its a Bart,
    Thanks for the compliment on the lil Super...:D

    .....and now back to your regularly scheduled program....sorry Shaun

    Here is a link to the lil Super build
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=495831
     
  5. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,949

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Does your 4C hub look like this?
     

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  6. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Yup......sort-of.....it has no drum or fins. Over the weekend I will have to take a pic of the back side. Its a very light casting, somewhat flat, and where the 5 spokes are is hollowed out. (Its actually on the RR of the lil Super as it matched the fronts better than the cast hubs. (I also have a few old disk brake hubs as well, buried in the shed)
    [​IMG]

    OH, and your car is just amazing Marty.

    And this was the car that I built in 1999 to revive an old open wheel class. The hub is on the RF of this car so I had constant 3 wheel brakes.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  7. pljas104
    Joined: Feb 1, 2013
    Posts: 20

    pljas104
    Member

    this looks like a sportsman they use to race at Antioch and this looks like it might be from Merced or Modesto....
     
  8. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Some more progress today...

    Got the torque arm in place and the bracket tacked in on the cage. Suspension still seems to work the same, so I guess I didn't mess it up too badly...

    [​IMG]

    Then started working the panhard mount.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    One thing handy about this rear end is the convenient bolts in the middle of the housing..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully can get the 220 welder out tomorrow and finish welding these pieces. Still need to make an additional guesst going from the other panhard mount to the frame rail/angle iron going across the back).

    Also managed to get an old VW tank from my uncle... But it's the wrong style. Found I need one out of a 50-55 Bug, not something you see in junkyards anymore..

    However, maybe I could make this work tank, just make some new brackets. I would also get a fuel gauge which the other tank didn't have provisions for... Something that can come in handy haha

    Think I might need to find a different seat too... We've got an old aluminum racing seat with no head rest that I could probably get a cover made for, but I'd sort of like to find and old car or truck seat to use. A VW seat would be even better because that's what they ran originally, but I need something that mounts flat to the floor...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Looking awesome Shaun, you work fast! One thing, I know its double work, but if you want to make that torque are a million times stronger, fab another set of those exact brackets and put them on the other side of the heim joints putting the bolt in double shear. Great work, a little black paint and noboby will be the wiser (hell you could say they were original and off a tractor 3-point....lol)

    Good call Peljas104!!! We revived the Sportsman class of the 60s-70s at Merced Speedway in 1999. This was my car I built and raced. (cut down 65 Chevelle body, tube frame using a Camaro front clip, but built to same dimensions as a 55 Chevy frame)

    This has been a blast watching and reading this!!!!
     
  10. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    Looking good Shaun. Rear shock mounts next? What's wrong with that seat ,just give it a quick rub down with lacquer thinner and shoot it with a rattle can of vinyl paint ,color of your choice...... Bill aka Tnomoldw
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  11. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Think I'm going to hold off on shocks for now on the back... There's no real decent place to bolt them now that the rest of the suspension is in place. The coil springs seem to working pretty good though...

    However, I have thought of adding a small set of coil springs on TOP of the crossmember, have spring action going both ways. Might dampen some more shock then, I dunno...

    Already on it ;)

    [​IMG]

    Haven't made one for the rearend side yet, but now that I've found out my plasma cutter will do 1/4" with ease it's a whole lot easier then doing it with a ox/acy torch...

    But anyways, moved some stuff and broke out the 220 Lincoln and finished welding all of these frame brackets in place... Also added a gusset on the frame to the panhard bracket. Definately be rugged now, but it's always better to overbuild then underbuild!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I don't think I'll be winning any welding awards for the torque arm brackets, but then again welding overhead while on a creeper isn't exactly "ideal" for me...

    I am pretty impressed with myself for how the panhard set up came out, I think it looked pretty damn good..

    As for the seat, that one could work, but it would need a TON of work, and then I think it would be still too tall for me (not a lot of head room). I did happen to see this low-back fiberglass seat on Speedway for short money: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sportsman-Economy-Fiberglass-13-Inch-Seat,1511.html

    Might be a tad on the small side though...
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  12. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    Looks real good, Shaun :) I saw this battery box ,got to thinking, you could use a Bread Box , a Tupperware container, Ice chest.picnic basket , what ever .... Nascar cars have the battery tucked behind the right front wheel so it s actually slipped inside on the right side floor be really close to the starter. Something else you prolly should add a relay in your lights hook system, to be gentle on switches. Bill aka Tnomoldw:cool:
     

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  13. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    So over the past week or so I've been thinking pretty hard about the seat for this car...

    Looked at regular racing seats, old fiberglass seats, truck seats, etc, etc.

    Then yesterday, I got the crazy idea... Why not use the seat frame that was in it?? (Don't think it was the first seat it had though)

    Well, it had seen better days to say the least... And yes, the bottom of the frame was welded directly to the floor:

    [​IMG]

    Pretty soon after I got the chassis back from the sandblaster, I cut out the seat and stashed it away, so yesterday I dragged it back out to see what was left of it...

    [​IMG]

    Realized I didn't really need 1/8" plate as a seat back, so cut that out and welded up the holes and some of the bigger rust pits..

    [​IMG]

    Then added a 2" flat piece to the back for some support, and then 1 1/2" pieces on the bottom of the seat, and drilled two holes in each. Later I welded 4 bolts through the holes so I had an easy way to attach it....

    [​IMG]

    I think it'll work out pretty good now... Dropped it off at the local upholstery guy, hopefully he can work his magic on it

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  14. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Hey Bill, thanks for the advice... I've got a bunch of left over angle iron and other misc steel so I was thinking of making my own box, but will add some insulation to it. Always fun seeing creative ideas for battery boxes.. Hadn't seen a cooler yet!


    One thing I need some ideas on is how to make an emergency brake system for this car... Required by the state of NH for a street rod inspection. Has to be on at least two wheels (probably the back would be easiest)...

    Anyone got some thoughts on that??
     
  15. 4444Design
    Joined: Aug 25, 2012
    Posts: 292

    4444Design
    Member

    awesome resto - i like the way that rig is getting back to a racing modus

    subscribed

    looking forward to the updates
     
  16. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,535

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    Hang a rotor off your rear axle pinion and make a bracket to the housing to mount the caliper to. Use a trailer type master under the floor, lever activated. should be able to lock up both rear wheels. Gene
     
  17. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    I had thought about mounting something with the yoke, but unfortunately NH requires "Parking brake operating on at least 2 wheels on the same axle." I've asked a couple guys that build street rods and they've told me it has to go to each wheel on that axle, not a driveshaft/pinion brake, etc.
     
  18. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    There is 50s-60s hydraulic brake lock , they are/were made in MINNESOTA .It was used by trucking fleets for delivery trucks.Times have changed. It a dash mounted lever /valve move the lever to lock position ,push brake pedal.Fluid is pressurized to rear wheel cylinders. Pressure is held till you unlock it via the lever/valve. Ask your Dad he prolly knows about them. http://www.mico.com/products/lever-lock
     
  19. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    I've heard of/seen line lock before, and it is a good idea, but what happens if I DO happen to lose a brake line/hose, etc... Then I'd be pretty much screwed right?
     
  20. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,632

    SimonSez
    Member

    I'm definitely not an expert as I have never even seen one of these rear ends, but I had a search around and found this info on Ford Truck Enthusiasts website ...


    One poster said that:

    1948-51 F-2's had 12" drums all the way around, and the rears had parking brakes.


    Another said that:

    Beginning in mid year 1951 the F-3s got 12" rear drums. The F-2s, as Chuck said above, had 12" drums throughout. At that time the parking brake was moved from the backing plates to the back of the transmission on both the F-2 and F-3 models."


    I read somewhere else that both the F2 and F3's had the 3/4 ton split rear end.

    So if your drums are 12" diameter, maybe you can get the rear brakes from a 48 through mid-51 F2 and use them?


    Here is the complete thread ...

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-swap-an-f2-split-rear-for-a-dana-60-a-2.html
     
  21. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    :)Lightenup I'm trying to help you.
    Pedro was driving down the street in a sweat because he had an important meeting and couldn't find a parking place.
    Looking up toward heaven, he said "Lord, take pity on me. If you find me a parking place I will go to Mass every Sunday for the rest of my
    life and give up tequila."
    Miraculously, a parking place appeared. Pedro looked up again and said "Never mind. I found one!" ;) :)My reference to using the MICRO lock brake system is to aid in passing the inspection to be street/road legal. It adapts to brake line going to the rear wheels.It also has an alarm low pressure light. My point is putting mechanical parking brake parts on that car would major operation.Parking brakes are more likely to fail than the Micro lock brake system.
    Are you using a double reservoir master cylinder? They are a super safety part.:)
     
  22. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member



    I had honestly forgotten all about that change... I had just assumed that they took all the parking brake hardware out when they went out racing... Forgot that the brake was on the back of the transmission. I've got a '48-51' rear end the same style and it still has the parking brake set-up (someone just cut the cables when they pulled it). Not sure, but I think there was at least 1/2" difference in the brake set-up, but I'll have to look into that, thanks. Still not real sure how I'd rig up a handle setup though..

    Sorry, wasn't trying to come across harsh :) I'll call the local guy that inspects street rods and get his take on it. Perhaps a line-lock is acceptable... It would be nice to have a mechanical e-brake set-up though... I lost my brakes twice in a vehicle that was only 10 years old, one time I didn't have enough time to react, and hit a tree. The other time I was able to use my parking brake and avoid going through a red light..
     
  23. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    Shaun,For highway/freeway driving you should do some math ,ratio/rpm/mph/tire diameter check out these tall tires for the rear. :) I notice this cars battery box fastened to the floor next to the seat ,I think ,with rubber motor mounts like used on a furnace (cage blower) fan.
     

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  24. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    The three pictures above with the Firestone tires is named The Chemical City Coupe.It will be a the Detroit Autorama show .It was built in the Joe Kerr shop.It has full sprint car style torsion suspension.The olive car is an Ohio car as is The Chemical City Coupe. I'm guessing it will be at the Detroit Show also.note the big rear tires. Reminisent of a drylake racers, it looks cool and it would help your gear ratio. :D Bill aka Tnomoldw You can be proud of your car's heritage it was a real track racer. Do you have a tach yet ???? I saw an outrageously cool tach installation on a dutch guys truck, tack was mounted on the hood on a small flip over panel operated by a choke cable. :eek:
     

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  25. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    My upholstery guy called up yesterday so I went and picked up the seat... $80. Might have him cut down the padding an inch on the back and bottom though... The pedals are a little too close.

    [​IMG]

    Also managed to build a couple small brackets and mount my fuse panel..

    [​IMG]

    Got kinda discouraged with things today for some reason... Think it's somewhat due to finding parts. Having no luck finding a pair of tires, a gas tank out of 52-55 VW Beetle, or a set of headlights (would like a set of the Guide ones with the turn signals on top). The stuffs out there, but I can't shell it out for everything right now... $300 for new tires, $200-$300 for a USED gas tank, and about $260 for a pair of new headlights (no luck finding any used ones). But hopefully things will turn around soon... Those are the last few big parts I've gotta buy.

    Also took a look at the 48-52 F2 Timken rearend I have... They've got the emergency brake still in place, and the brakes really didn't look too bad, drums didn't even have ridges. Might be able to get away with cleaning them up and new wheel cylinders.. Also found a parking brake lever in a pile of parts that should work perfect if I go that route. Hate to take off brakes I redid on the back, but it'll probably be the easiest way to get an emergency/parking brake set-up.
     
  26. USA Tires Sign Joe
    Joined: Aug 13, 2006
    Posts: 1,072

    USA Tires Sign Joe
    Member
    from Western NJ

    Looks like the old stuff they raced at Flemington, NJ
     
  27. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 848

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Would love to find a decent pair of 7.50-16's for the rear.... If I had those, and switch to 4.86 gears, I'd be doing a little over 2600 RPM at 50 MPH. Definately not made for the interstate, but that I think that'd be a fairly decent cruising speed/RPM for this car..
     
  28. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Looking really really good Shaun!!!
     
  29. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    :)So you had parts to get the parking brake installed , that's cool.:cool: Check your rear bolt pattern, may be wheels off a motor home /milk truck might fit. I wouldn't rule out 17 inch.Bill aka Tnomoldw.................................................................................................. Patience Young Man.......... Good Hunting,:)
     
  30. worken2much
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 67

    worken2much
    Member

    I've been checking in on your project off & on since it started. Looking good. You are almost there. I have a 33 Ford coupe racecar w/ 300 six power. Old racecar from middle sixties.

    Our cars, (33-34 coupe) get tight down at the pedals. I went with a hand lever / hydraulic clutch to gain some foot room. Obviously, not a great choice for a street driven car. Do what you can...gain a 1/2" here & there. Don't wear your clumsy boots. Wear tennies or racing shoes. Most of the time your trips will likely be short duration.

    Check out your local racer swap meets for a fuel cell in a steel can. I was struggling for room too. Used a 8 gallon can & it is enough fuel for a night of racing. We typically use about 3 - 4 gallons a night.

    Hang in there. It'll be worth it when you are done. Worked on mine for 4 years before I could drive it. Seemed sometimes that it would never get done.

    Have fun,
    Worken2much
     

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