So I'm down to this for shock mounting on my pickup project. I have too narrow axle to use any bolt ons, wont fit to hairpins, tie rod too close for a shackle mount and so on. Now I've seen a few cars set up like these two and I know the geometry isnt perfect, BUT will it work ok? This would ease my pain if they function decent Thanks <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
anyone run theirs this way? Any help would be appreciated <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
could you mount the shocks to the top of the hairpin mount? I don't remember seeing it done but I don't know why it wouldn't work. baring that friction shocks would be the way to go
friction shocks are out for me. dont like em. The way the t buckes in the pics have them is the only way i'll be happy with. just wondering if anyone else has seen these or ran them this way. obviously not as laid back as the one is, but is there enough articulation to these chassis to pose a BIG problem by running the eyelets and mounts this way? <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Rule of thumb...........don't lean a shock over more than 20 degrees. After that you alter the effective dampening action. Frank
My daily driver truck has the back shocks mounted at 32 degrees and rides well. Both mounted straight back off the u-bolt brackets, factory.
I know about the proper angle and degrees, but my question is, is it alright to mount the shocks and eyelets parallel with the frame rails instead of horizontal (triangulated)? <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Mock up your choices and you will be able to decide, or find someone who has done it the way you have shown and ask them. The bronze T doesn't look as if it has much shock left till it bottoms out from the picture.
Oh...I see what your getting at! With a round tube axle and radius rods to the outside of the frame your leaning in turns etc is limited by the natural binding of the axle assembly. I can't see any reason why the lean would exceed the flex of the shock bushings. Put a long bolt in a vise, slip the shock onto it and see how much side deflection is available. Judge accordingly! I'd rather see the shock axle mounts as close as possible to the kingpins to help resist bouncing etc, but with your alternative to this style mounting being friction shocks, that in most cases would pivot from the same axle location, your really no worse off anyway.
Contact this man (Ron Pope). He's a hot rodder and has some setups that will get you straight. Call him and send him pics of what you need and want. He does his own work and can even manufacture what you need. http://www.eztbucket.com/ Tell him Fred in Houston, TX sent ya.
no no no... they will just blow out... try like this...http://hotrodace.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/photo1475.jpg?w=510
Works fine. Over a year driving on them[about 800miles+] I made all the brackits my self,top is 1/2 alum plate and bolt on bottom is G8 with SS spacers & washers/polish all parts. Did this for Rosh's 23T
Hello Guys. Is there a good intrenet translator for translating this forum in Swedish? I would show It to some people which don't speak english.
For those shocks to work the axle would have to move BACK AND FORTH. The axle instead moves UP AND DOWN, those shocks will pivot up and down with little to no compression.
Yes. Shocks mounted on an inboard/outboard angle provide some minor roll resistance, which you'll loose when they're mounted parallel to the frame rails, but they'll still provide damping in the up/down mode. Nearly any hydraulic shock mounting within reason will provide better performance than friction shocks which aren't very effective. Bob
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