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Lakster or Dirt Track ???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by exStreamliner, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,531

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I like the headers so far. I don't like any of the photoshopped pictures, they all look too fake and somehow off to me.

    I'm looking forward to see what you do for the noise factor. I'm still a fan of routing the exhaust out to the back myself :) .

    Carry on and don't get too caught up in getting the "correct era" look.

    What you have done so far is great and who says you would have done it differently if this was 1949 instead of 2013.
     
  2. Kona Cruisers
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,074

    Kona Cruisers
    Member

    Goin to say 2 is the best option , but still not perfect.


    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  3. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Sound? I'm not sure what impact I will have... but, this is the plan... I contacted an Alliance Vendor - Cone Engineering and ordered 4 sections of 12" louver cores 1 3/4" and they custom lazer cut baffel rings for the driveshaft ID... they didn't recommend the way I'm utilizing thier components (they felt that the 12" louver core was sufficient) but Carey cut down the non louvered sections and welded two together for an extended length... the rings will be tack welded through the inlet port openings prior the welding the individual tubes to the collector... A to B will not have any packing.. B to C will have the top section cut out... C to D will be wrapped/packed with steel wool...

    [​IMG]

    Carey checking maximum length an baffel ring locations...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Section removed from B to C

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Joy550
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 9

    Joy550
    Member
    from usa

    I can't keep my mouth shut. That is gonna be one bitching ride.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  5. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

  6. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Shorty headers weren't as common... but, they were present
     
  7. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    The ruler placement shows the hood location... the Whippet shell tapers in so it doesn't match the frame rail

    [​IMG]
     
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,528

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pics of some vintage elbow burners.


    .
     

    Attached Files:

  9. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,995

    silent rick
    Member

    i'm debating how to mount my cowl steering.
    how's the steering work for you? i noticed it's only mounted to the body and from what i got from the thread, there are only 4 body mounts.
    does the body move at all when you steer? seems like over time, some flex would occur
     
  10. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    The body has a band between the front of the cowl & the firewall... The firewall has been extended down... the original sub rails are intact... the rear cowl has a tube across the top and another along the lower edge of the dash... there are two tubes around the parimeter (welded full length -top & bottom) that tie into the firewall.. vertical tubes that tie into the rear back panel support...rear seat pan ties into both sides of that subrail and has a support panel under it... the door frame are intact door skins welded in... And there is bracing and support plates for the steering on both sides... Nothing flexes...

    Question is would anyone ever go to this much trouble to support the steering today... I would think not! I'm amazed at the hours spent and wouldn't even consider it... 70 years ago they most have had a lot more time plus the heat caused damage to the sheet metal that took hours to hammer out...

    If I was building one without having the race prepped body... The steering would be frame supported... I seen frames that had more flex than this body but I wouldn't duplicate it! Remember they didn't run roll are back then and the body was the drivers only protection...
     
  11. vinnymac44
    Joined: May 16, 2008
    Posts: 142

    vinnymac44
    Member
    from W. Oregon

  12. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Thanks for the link - I'll enjoy going through it... the body mods would have made mine non-competitive after 1947... and I haven't seen many roll bars before then... late forties early fifties - yes... required by mid-late fifties... bottom line - I wasn't there and I'm no authority... I was just making a point that whoever prepped my body for lakes or track sure planned on it providing some protection...
     
  13. coneeng
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 19

    coneeng
    Member

    It wasn't so much we disagreed with what you were trying, it was more that we hadn't seen it tried before so we couldn't really give an answer how well it would work.

    Generally on these style of headers you want the muffling device to start after the last primary tube has come into the cone so that it is working with equal force on each of the primary tubes. Again, that is strictly based on standard practices and doesn't mean another way might not be better. So much in the exhaust world is trial and error that you can't really know for sure what is going to work until you try it.

    It is even more difficult when you cross over from performance into sound quality. What sounds great to one person might sound awful to the next. It's almost as bad as telling someone what the best color would be to paint their car.

    I'm really anxious to hear how this turns out! It's definitely unique!

    Rich for Cone Engineering


     
  14. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Would you wrap between A & B ?

    Any concerns with welding it in ? I'm concerned with how well the stainless steel wool will hold up over time

    Any recommendations or thoughts on additional modification?

    Side note: These guys have a quality product and even with the custom lazer rings the delivery was fast... I guess thats why we rely on Alliance Members!
     
  15. coneeng
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 19

    coneeng
    Member

    Stainless steel wool is almost as indestructible as the stainless itself. It takes a lot to destroy it. As opposed to mild steel wool that can become flammable once it starts rusting.

    But again that is based on the way we normally position the cores where the material is being subjected to outward exhaust pressure and return pressure. I don't know that it would make much difference overall but when in doubt I would wrap.

    If you can avoid welding it in until tested, I would probably wait. Once you find you like it then would go ahead and weld in place.
     
  16. Busted Flush
    Joined: May 25, 2010
    Posts: 2

    Busted Flush
    Member
    from KC MO

  17. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    If I could have built it without being mid 50's I would have dropped all the individual tubes down to the frame then into the collector then extending back and exiting under the side kick bars... I love that look of long flowing pipes - it just wouldn't be right for the this build... The correct thing to do would be to loose the 312... but, Steve, you remember how much fun the wagon was and think of loosing 2,800 lbs and taller gears... maybe when you visit and take a ride this year you can test my theory of when she's wide open - you won't even be thinking of db levels...
     
  18. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    That would have been my recommendation: long primaries sweeping down to the frame, with a collector at the bottom... T bucket style.


    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  19. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Exactly... Mid 50's... Unfortunately when you go for a period build you end up making sacrifices... The intent is to build a pre 48 ride that was modified with the second gen V8... When I was building my 33 in the 70's period cars were just old hot rods or they were upgraded over the years with a mix of parts... I started with a body only (seems like that's all I can ever afford) and when it got close to being done I had a pre 48 style with a SB Chevy... Friends convinced me since I was so close to a period build that I should picks year... I was amazed how many parts had to be replaced (some of which I liked better)... But, it turned out to be the smartest move I ever made... I learned a valuable lesson - set a build parameter from the beginning and don't deviate... Rework is counter productive and more expensive
     
  20. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    I totally understand. Period perfect has got to be the most difficult type of build there is. I don't have the kind of patience required to build something so specific, you have my respect and admiration!

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  21. Spudly V
    Joined: Jun 12, 2010
    Posts: 7

    Spudly V
    Member
    from Cut Bank

    I am building a steel 20 T r/p (real , hack box and all ) staying away from traditional and bucket but Hot ROD! This thing does what it should. SpV
     
  22. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Tube & baffles completed... stainless steel wool will be wrapped full length except for blocked section for forth port

    [​IMG]
     
  23. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    I'm a firm believer that a camera is your best friend in a build... It sees things your to close to see... It confirms proportions... and, if it looks good from all angles in the camera - it will look good in person... However, every time I set in front of the computer I doubt my choice on the exhaust... Every time I walk around in the shop I find faults with my other options... the shorties don't distract from the lines and look better in person than they do in pictures... I've been riding the fence until I recieved a PM from a builder/artist that agrees it fits the spirt of this ride... I'm going with the shorties
     
  24. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    I can't help myself... I love to watching welding... Carey & Josh the Brown Dog are my hero's

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  25. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,735

    langy
    Member Emeritus


    i tried the very same method about 12 years ago, It didn't make much difference to be honest, its my opinion that they are so close to the primaries that the gases don't get a chance to lose some of the velocity.
     
  26. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,735

    langy
    Member Emeritus



    You would find that job much easier with 1mm tungsten & 1mm filler wire, the beads won't be so big then and you can keep the heat down. hope this helps ya
     
  27. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,531

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I think the baffling ends up being too close to the source of the sound you are trying to mute somewhat.

    Part of an exhaust systems efficiency in silencing some of the sound comes from the length of the pipes, location and type of mufflers etc.
     
  28. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Foremost I want to thank everyone for thier input and I certianly don't want to come off as defensive... however, cone engineering was straight up front that my design was not optimum for a street driven car... if you have been following this build then you are aware that the plans for this car was one level above a cackel fest car that I plan to trailer to most events and will sneak out on the highway occasionally... as I get closer to finishing it I have had made concessions to make it more street legal - a windshield and a hand brake... but, I still don't envision it getting much street time... my plan has always pretty much included a trailer being pulled by a 57 Ford... either my wagon or the Ranchero that I've been messing with... but thats me... this project seems to have a following that will really benifit by your experience since they are most likely building projects to drive... additionally, I've PM'd Tim "mctim64" to ask about his input since his FED has straight tubes and he would be the most knowledgeable sourse I can think of on Y-Block db levels...
     
  29. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

  30. I think what you have there will be bearable although not on a long trip. ;) I don't think it will be any louder than the cars with "Lakes" style headers. I drove around in Derrek Bolings A pickup with no baffles and it was not bad. My wife didn't like it too much.

    The "Zoomies" on my dragster will crack you ear drums if you are close when you crack the throttle but a little length of pipe will deaden it quite a bit.

    The work looks very good as well as the style, I like it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013

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