There are a number of companies manufacturing lake headers out there and I'm certain they're all top notch. But they all cost more that I wanted to spend because I'm not sure whether I'm going to run them or a set of stock ram's horn manifolds in the end. This post is specifically for a small block Chevy, but the process would be basically the same for any make of engine. Anyway, HAMBer old bone asked me to do a tech thread to document the headers I built, so here goes. First of all, I started with the Speedway four inch cone kit. For $164, it comes with everything you see here: I bought a pair of 4 inch turn outs from Jeg's for $40, like these but in raw steel, not polished stainless: I picked up four round junction box covers at the hardware store for about $10. I brought the cones from the header kit with me to pick the best two sizes to slide into the cones – two 4 inch diameter and two smaller – a bit over 2 inches. And finally, I ordered two louvered tubes from Cone Engineering at $26 for the pair: Building the headers is pretty straight forward. With the engine installed in the car, I bolted the flange onto the head and started fitting the front bend. When I was satisfied with the angles, I cut the first bend to length. From the side, I ran the cone parallel with the angle of the head and the inside edge of the cone runs parallel with the cowl when viewed from the top. Then I welded the front bend to the cone. I didn't weld the front bend to the flange at this point to maintain adjustability up and down from the side when fitting the other primary tubes. Next I started fitting the back tube. I wanted the primary tubes to curve smoothly into the cones so I aligned, measured, looked at it from every angle and then committed to the cuts. With a cut off wheel on an angle grinder, I cut the bend first so that it fit snugly onto the cone. I fine tuned the shape of the the tube with a flapper wheel and various files. Then I traced around the bend onto the cone to mark where the hole would go. Then with a cut off wheel, flapper wheel and various files, I cut and shaped the hole in the cone, then tacked the tube to the cone. I followed the same process for the two middle tubes, but because they're close together, the cuts for the tube second from the front would be a little different. Starting with the tube third from the front, to maintain the sweeping curve into the cone, I repeated the procedure I used for the rear tube. Once that tube was fitted, I taped it in place so I could fit the last tube for that side. Because it runs close to the third tube, the shape of the end and the opening in the cone would be different. Next, I taped the two center tubes together and then welded them together on the inside where they touch as they enter the cone. If this isn't welded before you weld the tubes onto the cone, you won't be able to access it later for final welding. Sorry, no pic. Then, I welded the attached center tubes onto the cone. After all the primary tubes were welded to the cones, I removed the primary/cone assembly and unbolted the flange from the head. Then, with the primary tubes positioned squarely into the flanges, I welded the tubes to the flange from the inside. I ground the flange welds and then filed them flat. I followed basically the same procedure for the other side. For the baffles, I started by grinding off the galvanized coating on the junction box covers and then welding up all the holes and perforations. Then I marked the centers and cut a hole in each of the four for the perforated/louvered baffle tubes. I drilled a series of holes around the larger center holes to allow the exhaust to flow in and out. I then welded the tubes to the junction box covers – a big one and little one on each. Next, I cut down the length of the turn outs and recut the outlet closer to the turn. Then I butt welded the turnouts to the big end of the baffle. The baffles are held in place with a bolt and lock nut at the bottom. Sorry, no fab pictures, just the finished product. The last thing I did was finish the welds to prep them for coating. This was done as much as I could with a small angle grinder, but mostly with various files and a lot of hand sanding. Hope this helps someone.