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<><>Ladder Bar Picture Thread<><>

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BloodyKnuckles, Mar 15, 2009.


  1. We had a few setbacks like our wedding, having to move out of our shop, my daily driver work truck broke so I had to fix that and work on it's replacement '63 Interational.

    But I have been gathering parts. I picked up a tube front axle for hairpins and a transverse spring and a set of fresh heads for the 401 that have larger valves. So very soon I'll start back on it.



    Thanks guys for keeping this thread going. I know there are alot of examples out there.




    BloodyKnuckles
     
  2. Cool Thread! I've been contemplating on what to do on my 51.Ladder bars or Traction Bars. I still would like to keep the car low and with the leaf spring. How do you determine the length of the ladder bars?Mounting points from rear end to frame.
     
  3. 5w32
    Joined: Jan 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,062

    5w32
    Member

    my old school 40 stude coupe gasser setup
     

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  4. Heres what I'm thinking about for the Falcon, C10 trailing arms refabbed.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. I like the last post idea of using the C-10 trailing arms as it is similar to a drilled I beam axle but the rear mounting would have to be, uh, a little different, but good idea using those drilled.
     
  6. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,757

    JOECOOL
    Member

    I don't want to be a smart-ass but you guys should know that when you install ladders the rear end has to float in order for them to work. A lot of the pic's show the front shackels in a normal hanger ,THIS WILL NOT WORK!!..All this will do is rip the weakest part of the system in half.
     
    turboroadster likes this.
  7. Butch M
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,569

    Butch M
    Member

    hear's are floaters.
     

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  8. chris55
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 1,085

    chris55
    Member

    Heres mine. Not quite finished yet.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 555

    GuyW
    Member


    ...or the front of the bar has to be non-constrained with rubber bumpers...
    .
     
  10. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,023

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    wouldnt those be slapper bars then?

    What if you use them as trailing arms?
     
  11. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,354

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    ....or shackle the front part like in the picture I posted earlier... :)
     
  12. claymore
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 896

    claymore
    BANNED

    If you have anything beyond a stock mouse engine these are going to bend in no time. Tubing is always a better choice than bar stock as it has more strenght in the plains the bars will be working in.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. goon56
    Joined: May 31, 2008
    Posts: 232

    goon56
    Member
    from new jersey

    front shackles. and if u have a front heim on the ladder bars, you can get some roll out of them if u are cornering, instead of the car goin on three wheels
     
  14. heatmiser
    Joined: May 6, 2009
    Posts: 253

    heatmiser
    Member
    from mia

    someone say ladder bars?
    Apr 76 - (6).jpg
     
  15. Terry O
    Joined: Oct 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,060

    Terry O
    Member

    Under the Vicky...


    Terry
     

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  16. Has anyone seen or heard of ladder bars using a central pivot at the front monting? I have thought of using long gasser style ladder bars on the '42 that are close at the front like a Model A but bolt to a pivoting mount that has a large bolt in line with the driveshaft under the front U-joint so that the suspension will not be in a bind on a street car obviously with some sort of floater at the back leaf spring. Ideas??
     
  17. Okay, I'm no artist and don't have CAD but a quick sketch might help relay what I am thinking of, I know, its a pain in the ass to build but the idea of a pivoting streetable ladder bar mount is the whole point. Look past the lack of artistic skill and lets hear it ......
    [​IMG]
     
  18. granny
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 56

    granny
    Member
    from WA state

    Here's an extreme version of that, i use it on OT cars...I call it a torque arm.
    Shackle plates that go around the driveshaft, big rubber pucks mount the nose up in the tunnel...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No floater required...the shackle does the floating.
     
  19. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,603

    Kirk Hanning
    Member

    These are made utilizing 36' wishbones under a 34' chassis.
     

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  20. How about the idea I am trying to convey as an "articulating ladder bar mount"? Just throwing ideas out there, not trying to reinvent the wheel.........:D
     
  21. Deke
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 12

    Deke
    Member

    Oldguard, I think your design has merrit but I would add a way to lock it in place on each end if you want to race it...Loose on the street, locked to rock!
     
  22. granny
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 56

    granny
    Member
    from WA state

    Your design looks kinda like a ladder bar setup, but I see it's function as drawn to be pure torque arm. I like it.

    Adding springs or rubber dampers at the outboard ends of your yoke assy could serve somewhat like an adjustable anti-sway bar...increased roll stiffness in the rear without increasing rear spring rate.
     
  23. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I put mine in rubber rod ends.
    [​IMG]
    Then boxed all my rear end brackets: ignore the shock bolt on the bottom.:rolleyes:
    [​IMG]
     
  24. usmc50lx
    Joined: Oct 3, 2006
    Posts: 711

    usmc50lx
    Member
    from St.Louis

    Here are mine with old aluminum bushed heims on the front for said side roll factor so she dont tip! They run all the way to my driveshaft loop
     

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    Last edited: Jun 23, 2010
  25. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 11,165

    AHotRod
    Member

    Lots of cool ideas and designs.......
     
  26. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    Picture I robbed from another thread.
     

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  27. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

     
  28. POLYFRIED 35
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 888

    POLYFRIED 35
    Member

    Here is one that came on my 35 ford pickup ... they tend to fall out at the front, they are coming off!

    [​IMG]
     
  29. 69fury
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,419

    69fury
    Member

    to address binding- the o/t torque arm guys use a shackle at the front but it's in tension, not compression. This lets the front of the bar pick up on the mount/car with a vertical pull.

    I'd think that a bar mounted under the shackle (compression) would tend to angle the shackle (swing it forward or back) which could tear something up at the back end (or make leaf springs do some funny things....)


    rick
     
  30. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 6,251

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Here's the ones I bought to build the rear suspension on my Austin gasser. $199 new at JEG's.

    [​IMG]
     

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