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Projects KIWI 1939 COUPE DE JURE - Runnin from Johnny Law!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by woodbox, Dec 23, 2013.

  1. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1437646465960.jpg
    The release is off the latch. Held closed with a cam on the end of the red handle.
    1437646484207.jpg
    All the way off the TDC, gets the lower wheel out of the way to remove the work and replace without altering the tension. Also handy to get past swages, flanges or the like.
    1437646501570.jpg
    Back on the top position ready to rock and roll.
    1437646545139.jpg

    That's it. Back to work in the morning! Paying work that is!
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2015
    daddio211 likes this.
  2. You have done a fantastic job on the wheeling machine Wade. The off subject Estate Wagon beside the machine looks absolutely good too, very straight and no rust that I can see in the photo's of the machine. So now can you push the machine around to the front of the Estate Wagon and take some more detailed photo's of the wheel machine, we will be able to check out the rest of it. ;);)
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  3. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Damn Wade, is there anything you can't do?
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  4. I don't think so !! JW :D
     
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  5. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    My son was home from school today, so I made the most of an extra pair of hands to bolt the front fenders back together after a bit of hammer and dolly work on the flanges. I tried the right inner fender on the rail and found that it interfered with the inner end of the top suspension arm. I grabbed the leather bag and the wooden teardrop mallet and increased the clearance a tad. I will run it over the wheel once I have stripped the paint etc. The bottom edge of the panel has been butchered somewhat so will require some more attention later. I am making a support frame to hold the pieces of fender. Once they are cut, to enable the pieces to be adjusted, it will all be able to slide out from the centre line of the car while we run the wheels and tires through a full travel of the suspension. Once satisfied with the clearances I will lock it all down and start wheeling and welding. The fenders have definitely seen better days, so I am not too bothered by cutting them up.....anyway, I enjoy a bit of a challenge! I will post pictures when the frame is complete.
     
  6. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    All braced up ready to start cutting. The tubes are fastened to the body at the fire wall, grill and the chassis table. Onto those tubes are pieces of half tube sitting on top of the long tube and clamped on with hose clamps. These pieces of tube are then fastened to the fenders with bits of 3/4" x 1/8" flat bar. The bars are fixed with Cleco clamps to the fenders.
    1438841146828.jpg
    I have marked out a small flange around the headlight mounting area. I have since cut these out.
    1438841167690.jpg
    The mounts and fastening methods.
    1438841179132.jpg
    I have since started slicing and dicing the fenders into bits, but the frames etc will hold them in position while I slide them out on the frames to the desired width.
    I need to borrow some wheels and tires from a friend that are the size that I plan to use, then I can gauge the clearances required before locking it all down and filling the gaps.
    1438841191260.jpg T
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
    kiwijeff, pcbart, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  7. That's clever !!:cool: JW
     
  8. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    Not just a pretty face! I need to do this sort of thing when I am working alone all the time.
     
  9. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,927

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Great idea! There is always something new to learn on your thread. Thanks for posting.
     
  10. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1438848212276.jpg
    The radius of the cross section of the top part of the fender is 8", so the 8" anvil on the english wheel will be spot on for a bit of shape in the filler strip. Down the front below the headlight hole is 4"radius so I might just practice on that one first. I better grab a sheet of panel steel tomorrow too! Any one know the thickness of the steel off the top of the head?

    1438848225391.jpg There can be no turning back now!
    All laid out like a filet of fish. I have set the outer at 2" and the inner section at 1" to spread the distance over the curves. I marked out the highest line of the radius and the lowest line of the hollow adjacent to the hood opening for the cuts.
    I have just been on the phone to a friend and will pick up a wheel and tire combo that I plan to use in the morning.
    It will only take a couple of hours to confirm clearances then lock the jig in position. Then the fun begins! Filling the gaps. ..........stay tuned!
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
    daddio211 and pcbart like this.
  11. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 31,379

    loudbang
    Member

    FRANKENCAR :eek: LOL but hey if it works go for it.
     
  12. Looks great
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  13. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    As the adventure continues a fat fender becomes a fatter fender. :D
     
  14. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Reminds me of my sister's orthodontic head gear when we were kids!
    1438885632345.jpg

    No, that's not my sister. LMAO



    .
     
  15. Kiwi Tinbender
    Joined: Feb 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,155

    Kiwi Tinbender
    Member

    Wade......Early Ford sheetmetal is 19 gauge, about .038, so if you buy 1mm, you should be fine. ( I think that is about .0394, nominal. Take your caliper and try it, then take the measurement and caliper with you when you buy the steel. You`ll be surprised at the variation. When you are wheeling your strips, go easy. Many light wheelings are better than a few heavy ones, and make your strips qiute a bit wider so you can slide them around a bit for perfect fit.....but you know all that, ay.....
     
    LIFESTYLZ likes this.
  16. Eric........................that eyebrow is very scary :eek::confused:o_O JW:D
     
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  17. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1439025851565.jpg
    I cut a bunch of pieces off the sheet metal and folded some yesterday. Today started putting some shape in with the shrinker and the wheel. I decided to take the inner section right into the edge rather than just add a strip into the cut. That will eliminate a second full length weld and give a nice new edge in the engine bay.
    1439025863604.jpg
    The shrinker was giving me grief all afternoon. The fulcrum bar that presses on the teeth is bent and cracked so I can't get a decent bite at the metal. I need to get another one or make a new fulcrum with a few improvements!
    1439025876002.jpg With the wheels on I worked out the clearances, and came to the conclusion that I will be making new openings that aren't as fat. I will also raise them carefully 1" for full lock clearances.


    1439025892155.jpg
    Back to work in the morning!
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  18. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,927

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I know I should just wait and watch what you do with the headlight area.........but....... I have to ask. Whats the plan for the headlights? Are you going to add metal there so that you can use the stock headlight and buckets and trim? That jig you built to support the fenders is just ingenious!
     
  19. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    I am going to visit the headlight problem in more detail once I have locked down the rest of the fenders. The plan is to reuse the buckets and probably do a bit of shrinking around the openings to blend things in. Time will tell!
    The jig seemed to be a good way to hold everything so I could do the job on my own. No extra hands around to hold stuff when I need it. It seemed logical to spend a little time at the outset of the job to save a heap of time during the job.
    Now I just have to sort out the shrinker stretcher, that is not working right.
     
  20. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1439251368835.jpg This morning saw a little production line set up in the shop. I borrowed a panel clamp from a friend and made a dozen for myself.
    1" long pieces of 1" RHS, 6mm bolts and nuts, 5mm bright round bar, some 20 gauge sheet metal, lots of hacksawing, some drilling and a bit of brazing. Total outlay......not much!

    1439251384915.jpg I had considered mig welding in the hole but decided to braze instead.
    1439251397036.jpg Here is one on the job, in action. Operation successful!
    Now, off to bed for work tonight!
    Oh yeah, and I ordered a new stretcher/shrinker....it should be on the courier today or tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2015
    daddio211 likes this.
  21. Yep. They are damn useful.
    Got a few myself.
    Also the clecos are well worth it too.
    I have several sizes.

    Looking good so far Wade.
     
  22. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1439545603799.jpg One side nearly fabricated. I decided to replace the top inner part of the fender completely, rather than to have two welds all the way along. this gave me fresh tin to bolt onto the inner fender. I am just sorting the light opening, this may involve a couple of slices to relieve a bit of tension on the inner edge.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
    daddio211 likes this.
  23. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Nicely done. Should be interesting to see it parked side by side with a stock one.
     
  24. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1439701071672.jpg Today I attacked the rear of the fender. Due to the widening process, this area increased by the full amount, rather than being shared by two joins. Once again I decided to replace the whole piece including the flanged edge to cu down on the welds. The problem I encountered was that the rear end was going to look ugly and "widened with a strip added" which I didn't want. I had though I could cut the rear section off just behind the rear of the wheel opening and slide it all forward a touch to fair it in better.
    1439701136972.jpg So I marked out the cut lines and started the cut from the top and headed down the side. less than half way down I stopped because the fender began to flap around a bit. While it was flapping I noticed that if I pushed it in toward the car.....it started to fit quite well! I cut a little further to relieve tension and checked again. This was going to work without cutting it all off and moving it ahead. I found a sweet point, scribed a line, grew some balls and chopped off the excess!
    1439701153284.jpg
    All this done and some expected shrinkage from the welding on the verticle weld things should turn out OK! I am not terribly concerned about the fenders finish. As you can see from these pictures they have been hacked up, leaded up, filled up and generally messed up by all and sundry before me!
    A skim of filler over it all will not be the end of the world. 1439701170118.jpg 1439701185773.jpg
    That is one side nearly done, just a couple more hours to tidy a few more bits, then on to the drivers side, maybe next week. Off to work in the morning.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015
  25. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Bitchin' Wade!
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  26. That's some cool work there, you must be pleased with it. :cool::D JW
     
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  27. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    Cheers mate!

    I am, it all seems to be working out. I love it when a plan comes together!
     
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  28. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,120

    woodbox
    Member

    1447996663713.jpg I haven't posted for such a long time, I am sure you were wondering if I had fallen from the planet!
    Both guards/fenders are nearly completely welded. I need to do a couple of bits with them off the car.

    1447996676534.jpg I lowered the headlights 1/2" and leaned them back 1/2" at the top to help fair them back into the fenders. Their adjustment will take up any changes needed.

    1447996690101.jpg
    I blew on a little bit of primer to shadow low points. i have some shirinking and dolly work to get them fully sorted, but they are pretty close.

    1447996704464.jpg
    I haven't trimmed the back off the new piece yet.

    1447996720116.jpg
    The rear 1/4 of the fender has been replaced some years ago and leaded up, so we will have to deal with that.

    1447996733847.jpg
    These crappy cell pictures don't show it very well.

    1447996760826.jpg
    I want to take them off the car next week to finish a couple of welds and do some dolly work.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2015
  29. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,927

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Looking good Woodbox!
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  30. That looks real good, Wade, its coming alive.:cool: JW
     
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