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Projects Kicking the T bucket build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by raven, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    Does anyone have an extra T frame front cross member they would part with. I’m trying to use as much original T parts on the frame as I can. No use building a cross member when Ford already made them.
    r


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  2. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,402

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Riiight!
     
  3. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

     
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  4. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    hotrods and dogs 001.jpg
    Hard to see the front plate, best picture I have.
     
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  5. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 23,660

    loudbang
    Member


    A little bigger shot :)

    1.jpg
     
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  6. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    With the spring on top of the mount did you realize any difference in handling?
    r


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  7. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    Not really as it was set up that way when I built it for lowness. It had 4.10 gears with a 5 speed that was non overdrive. Handled like it was on rails:). Blast to drive with the 153" Chevy II motor.
    It handled lots better than "fad T" I had in 80's (sold in the late 80's).
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
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  8. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

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  9. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    Steel came in and I was able to complete the perimeter of the frame. I’ll need to make some adjustments before I move to the next thing, but it’s closer to rolling now.
    r

    [​IMG]


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  10. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    Just a note, never be afraid to redo something. I wasn’t happy with the frame and started to remeasure everything. Was a little out of square. Realized tha one frame rail was ahead of the other a little. Came up with a plan of action and started cutting specific spot welds to relieve the frame. On the last cut, the game did it’s best Jenga impersonation. I just had to laugh. I had rushed a bit of the first time. Took it almost all apart and started again. Got it back together and am much happier with it now.
    r


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  11. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 18,829

    Roothawg
    Member

    Go man Go! I have a similar pile of parts I may throw together.
     
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  12. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 41,143

    porknbeaner
    Member

    You're not going to run those hairpins like that are you? Don't you know that it will turn your rear end into a sway bar? :rolleyes:

    Sorry I just could not resist. :D

    Movin right along looks good.
     
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  13. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    :p
    Got the rear suspension tacked in.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now to start making upper mounts for the coil overs.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Just need to cut the tubing and weld.
    Mounts from scratch.
    r


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  14. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    A little update, got the rear half of the frame sitting on its own.
    Coil overs mounted with the adapters I had to build to go from stud mount to eye mounts. Had to redesign a couple of times but moderately pleased with the outcome.
    The coil overs can be changed out to eye mounts at both ends of someone wanted to. I just used what I had.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Test fit the body to discover what needs to change and found a couple of things that I will have to redo or rethink.
    First the ladder bars interfere with the turtle deck.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



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  15. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    I think that I will bring in the rear mount another 1.5” on each side and move the front mounts out to be flush with the outside of the frame. I’ll have less angle to the ladder bars in relation to the outside of the frame but as light as the car will be, it shouldn’t pose a problem. It will be more like the rear ladder bars on my 27 roadster and it’s worked exceptionally well over the years.

    Another issue is that I can’t use the fuel cell I had for this.
    It fits where I wanted to mount it towards the front of the turtle deck but the center of the rear end is in the way of the sump on the rear of the fuel cell.
    So I’ll be using a cylindrical tank instead.
    [​IMG]

    With the body sitting on the frame, I can start designing how I’m going to mount it on the frame.
    I hate the actual fiberglassing so I am toying with the idea of building everything on the frame (floor, seats/mounts, dash hoop) and making the body just slip on over everything.
    There are a couple 60’s T buckets that were built like that although they were drag cars, but I’m thinking why not?
    There is one in particular I am referring to. It was a cover car with a chrome frame and the body was panel painted white with green metallic panels.
    r


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  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,406

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As an homage to the Grasshopper, you could name yours after an insect too. How about paint it orange and call it the Lady Bug?
     
  17. sodas38
    Joined: Sep 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,232

    sodas38
    Member

    Looking good Raven!
     
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  18. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 18,829

    Roothawg
    Member

    Insect names on cars is gay...
     
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  19. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    YES, that’s it!
    I love that car.
    r


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  20. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    There will be nothing ‘lady-like’ about this car...
    r


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  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,406

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    HAMB Drags Battle of the Insects!
     
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  22. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    LOL

    r


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  23. Grudge race between the "Fly" and the "Grasshopper"! Runnin for pinks at MoKan!
     
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  24. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 10,037

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

  25. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,090

    upspirate
    Member

    No pan hard bar or watts link?
     
  26. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 10,037

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    It’s literally tacked together dude give him a minute lmao
     
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  27. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    It will have a panhard bar. I learned my lesson on my first roadster, tack everything first, then when you have caught all the gotchas, do a final weld. The body will be on and off several times during this build. That’s just the way it goes.
    r


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  28. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,313

    raven
    Member

    Tim, thanks for that video.
    I want to do a roll bar like that, it mounts to the side of the frame.
    r


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  29. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 699

    lake_harley
    Member

    Interesting coilovers. The bottom looks like a homemade bracket to mount them, but the top (and they appear inverted) looks more like a regular coilover with the adjuster sleeve. Care to educate us?

    Lynn
     

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