Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Keeping orig. paint + patina, how to?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bummer, Mar 9, 2017.

  1. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Like said, want to keep what´s left of the old paint but needs some protection, right?
    Matt clear coat is the easy answer (?) but what else?
    I´ve read / heard about wd40ing or just waxing but I´m not convinced on those.
    What have you done?
     
  2. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,850

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    patina is a natural state, once you start messing with it, it becomes something else.
     
    bali-rod, Beau, Muttley and 1 other person like this.
  3. Flood corporation makes a product called Penetrol that is a oil base paint additive,it will help preserve and give a little life to the finish,applied straight from the can it will be sticky until dry,you can wipe off the excess.

    It will also renew faded fiberglass to look new again. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
    Spoggie likes this.
  4. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 5,729

    A Boner
    Member

    Automotive wax?
     
    Corvette Fever likes this.

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,862

    squirrel
    Member

    It didn't have any protection for the past fifty years, why does it suddenly need it, now?

    and storing it indoors is probably way better protection than it ever had before.
     
  6. Pinstriper40
    Joined: Sep 24, 2007
    Posts: 3,334

    Pinstriper40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with Mr. Squirrel and the rest of the guys... DON'T do a flat clear over old patina, DO use the penetrol or simply store it inside and wash it as usual. I plan on just cleaning the interior of my old panel truck and leaving the exterior to the elements as it's been for the last 50 years... I have the luxury of living in Colorado where rust isn't really an issue, though a coat of flat clear won't stop rust either.
    16938981_10100843288257010_4787821707477417110_n.jpg
    Those who know their custom car history might recognize the name... I'll be building this panel truck into the "hot rod panel that never was".
    14650115_1011191145656014_7912711091986848829_n.jpg
     
    Squablow, Barn Find, fordfrk and 2 others like this.
  7. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,215

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Here's a members 61 Parkwood wagon before and after CLR. A quick coat of clear over the finished product.
     
  8. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Yes, that is familiar topic.
    In this case I don´t want it to be shiny at all, just want to keep it as is as much as possible.
     
  9. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Only reason for coating is to keep it look the same, wet or dry. Tha patina / paint is so dull / matt that when it gets wet it gets much darker. In the drizzle it looks very bad.

    Also, it was sitting under sun & rain since 1988 until I bought it a few years ago.
    Not very much paint left...
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2017
  10. trailer-Ed
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,762

    trailer-Ed
    Member
    from JC, MO

    We use boiled linseed oil, cut with acetone. Protects well, gives a light sheen. And very inexpensive.
     
    Spoggie and Bummer like this.
  11. wisdonm
    Joined: Jun 20, 2011
    Posts: 443

    wisdonm
    Member

    I know some old timers that use diesel fuel on their tractors. Just enough paraffin to keep them from rusting.
     
  12. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 4,974

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    In Kansas, we use diesel fuel IN our tractors. o_O:D Lippy
     
    falcongeorge and Spoggie like this.
  13. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,148

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Anyone using Gibbs oil?
     
    modified likes this.
  14. flat 39
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 230

    flat 39
    Member

    I use cheap car wax on mine.
     
    Spoggie likes this.
  15. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,059

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    A picture is welcome, desired, needed, better...
     
  16. afaulk
    Joined: Jul 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,189

    afaulk
    Member

    I like to keep patina/old paint in my garbage can until the garbage truck runs. They pick the shit up and haul it to the landfill.
     
  17. Maybe if we saw what you are trying to preserve it would be easier to answer. When I got an old car that still has paint I wax it or if it is bad rusty I just try to not let it rust in piece (RIP) until I can repair it or trade it.
     
    clem likes this.
  18. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,000

    southcross2631
    Member

    58 morris minor original paint. Wet sanded with 400 and light coat of satin clear thinned by 40 percent. Only sanded because it had been spray can bombed with gray primer before I got it.
    Wanted to get rid of primer ,but keep the OEM paint. Then pin striped. DSCF0951.JPG
     
    Lone Star Mopar, Barn Find and Bummer like this.
  19. fordf1trucknut
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,114

    fordf1trucknut
    Member

    I use boiled linseed oil as well to protect anything that I have that is rusty or weathered that I didnt have the time or money to repaint at the time.
     
    Spoggie likes this.
  20. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Really? That´s some tough mixture. Won´t that acetone soften the paint too much?
    How much acetone (%) do you add on the linseed oil?
     
  21. trailer-Ed
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,762

    trailer-Ed
    Member
    from JC, MO

    We use 50/50 wipe it on with a lint free rag, wear rubber gloves. Let set for 5-10 minutes. Acetone in this mixture will not bother that old paint. I've done it on many cars. You mainly use it on the rust area's, it's really not needed on paint, but it will protect it too, it will also enhance old lettering. It's kind of like wax though, as in you need to reapply it every year or so, as it will eventually wash and fade off.
     
  22. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Looks good! Pretty much thinned clear coat. At least it dries fast, right.
     
  23. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Really interesting.
    One reason why I don´t want to go with clear coating is that then I need to mask a lot not to let the spray get to wrong areas. With this method no such problem.
    What will I have to do if I want to paint later? How do I remove it?
     
  24. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,059

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Many of us dislike the use of 'patina' as term to describe what's basically worn the fuck out. Here's an example of what I think is true patina, the original paint on my 39:
    031.jpg
    Now, if you look close you'll see rust on the hood sides. There's a measurable amount of paint missing on the tops of the front fenders, and a softball size dent on 1, a crack on the other. There's several little chips and scratches here n there too. Still it's slick and shiny Henry Ford black. The parts books have no listings that call out rust. And lets suppose it's 1947. What would somebody do with the finish on this car? They'd paint the tops of the fenders and the hood sides too. Probably keep a good layer of Simonize on it as well. All that rubbing, some minor scars earned in use, well that's true Patina. Not rust, barn fresh bird shit, mud, decades old layers of dirt. So when I fix the wear and tear will I be disingenuous to call my car "original paint"? No. Most of it is and being kept up. Still with all the input we're sharing no picture of the car in the topic. WTF bud? I put one up of mine so we can't blame me for not sharing. Pics, Pics, Pics, Pics,Pics...
     
    K13, mooreboy and BamaMav like this.
  25. I personally like the look of old paint. It never looks like a modern show car but if you find an old lacquered beauty that the paint is still solid it has just that perfect crazing and hazing once it is waxed. I see these faux-tina cars and they seriously drop the ball you just cannot duplicate 50 years or weathering. Not rust or wear through but just the perfection that only MOM nature can produce.
     
    Back2school likes this.
  26. Bummer
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Bummer
    Member

    Man, you are demanding! :D
    I'm on my phone now so no pics available until tomorrow. Sorry! Also I quess I will disappoint u all, 'cause I know that rat rod is a no no word here and I'm afraid my wagon is one of those:(
     
  27. Well maybe its a ragged rod.;)
     
  28. 46stude
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,711

    46stude
    Member

    I wash my OT '72 Cheyenne w/ Comet cleanser & a green scrubbie pad. That gets rid of a bunch of the light oxidation, and most all of the dirt. Then I put on a coat of wax. Not exactly recommended for a nicer paint job, but for a "patina" look w/ some protection from the elements, I haven't found anything that beats it.
     
  29. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,059

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    A minor level of being a dick is also quite traditional ya know. Just sayin...;)
     
    BrandonB likes this.
  30. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 6,262

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    When we were young, we'd wash the whole car with Ajax or Dutch Boy and wax the paint. Any rust got sanded to metal & primed, bearing in mind the more colors, the more "worked on" it looked. Nobody drove cars that purposely looked like junk, unless they were sleeper race cars.
     
    Spoggie and Russ B like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.