The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Stephen Barrett, Nov 4, 2019.
Hopefully the studs come out easy. Good luck.
Yeah. Thanks. I've got a good feeling about them. I wish a broken stud was all it was on my old motor but I think I'm going to still try and fix it.
The temp went up a little today so I was able to paint my transmission.
Took these pictures today of my old engine. Someone did some work to it. Check out the polished crank and over sized main caps.
Nice! Just for the record, the studs in that motor were only put in maybe a week or two before you got it. All the threads were chased at that time and there were no damaged, helicoiled, or pulled threads anywhere. I checked the decks with a SS edge and they were dead on. I do not believe the block was ever decked, which on a flatty with their typically thin decks, is a good thing.
The yellow sealer on the studs is "boilermaker" sealant, which I source from a local commercial plumbing and heating supply. It is the best I've ever found for sealing flatty studs to the deck. There's a load of brands but they all work well. It's used to seal steel pipes to boilers in industrial applications. I'm sure they have it at local suppliers in your area if you'd like to try it. I've never had one stud leak using this stuff. The temps and pressures in a flatty come nowhere near the abuse of a commercial boiler and when the time comes to pull them they never seize like some sealers allow. Just remember not tighten the studs to a point where you tear a thread out. They don't need to be cranked down excessively for a good bite. Just my 2 cents.
Following this build. Can't wait to see it on the street!
Thanks for the info on the sealant. I'll do that. I knew about the studs being put in right before I got it. I'm sure I'll have no problem getting them out. I was just responding to a comment and didn't want to jinks myself. lol. PM me on that frame stuff if you can. Just a guesstimate. Thanks. I can't wait to see it on the street either.
Question: maybe I missed something, but why do you want to pull the studs now that you've been informed by Koz as to how they're sealed in and decks have been checked and are flat?????????
I'll jump in here to add the Sharp heads take longer studs as they are thicker than the Ford heads that were on the motor. Much this same with many aftermarket heads. Just don't toss those studs. They're the "good" ones...... LOL
Thanks for jumping in and don't worry I won't toss them.
I found some interesting info on what was done to my crank. Apparently I have a Mercury 4" stroker crank that has been lightened considerably and then polished. Also the main caps are pretty stout and also polished. Apparently the crank could have been lightened by up to 12lbs. That sounds like a lot of work. This info makes me really interested in trying to get my block repaired. I got a card recently from another HAMB member for Rayco Machine in Amesbury that I'm going to have to look into soon.
Here is the quote I found on The Ford Barn and a photo.
"This first picture is a 4-inch-stroke SCAT crank that was lightened (by 12-plus pounds), given a serious aero carve for reduced windage, and a bit of polish to assist the aero plus remove stress risers from the surface. The red "X" on the front cheek is an indicator for some heavy metal to be added here for balancing."
My crank appears to be the same as the one pictured. I found this interesting.
I remember Mike Bishop showing pics like that of a crank he had been working on.
It looks pretty cool. I'm wondering how much benefit it has and how much power is added having a stroker. I almost sold it all cheap. I'm glad I didn't. I wonder what it cost to do that work too. I'll bet it isn't cheap.
I just looked again at the Ford Barn and it was from Mike Bishop that I got the info from. I'm going to go back and see what else I can find.
I went back on the Ford Barn and saw more info that interested me so I thought I should register. So I did. I've got to get use to navigating on it but it looks like there is a lot of good things to read. I do prefer the format here better but I can see it being useful.
Stephen, call Ricky at Rayco. He is a very busy guy so it may take a couple tries to get him. He is very knowledgeable about these and will answer alot of your questions. Good luck, Ron
I got a heater recently I thought you might like to see. It will be a while before I put it in but someone out there this winter needs one. I got it from minimania.com. It was a little pricey at $250 but it is really high quality. If your looking for small this is it. This is going to fit perfect in my tiny car. Plus the fan is good size not one of those little computer fans like the ones from China.
Thanks. I was just looking at the card you gave me. I'll be calling him real soon.
Hope those heads are working out for you. Let me know if for any reason they are not.
Got some stuff from Speedway today and the powder coater sent me a picture of my oil filter canister. Now waiting on him to do my headers and generator bracket. I'm hoping to get my heads in the next day or two. I'll be dropping them of with him to get them polished and red coating between the fins. I'm going to do the same to my air cleaners. I also should receive the adapter for my engine stand tomorrow. Then I can pull the pan and switch out the flywheel and clutch. I'm starting to get excited about getting back on it. T hen I can give everybody more to look at. Till then here's a couple boring pics. Sorry, wish I had more for you.
So apparently my head studs cause Cancer and Reproductive Harm. WTF, really, ok. Warning do not eat. lol. Of course California.
Oh I guess my intake gasket and valve guide seals also cause Cancer but my other gaskets and crank case oil seal don't. You've got to be kidding me.
I got the engine stand adapter today thanks to @Cliff Ramsdell. I also got my heads and will be bringing the to get polished and powder coated today or tomorrow. Getting closer.
Progress is Progress! Looking Good, Gary
Thank Gary. Things are going to start coming together really soon.
I love the heads natural but can’t wait to see them finished.
Glad I could help with the adapter, makes the job go smoothly.
Love the collection of parts and your old motor looks to have a collection of killer parts even if it was kinda hacked up at some point in its life.
Keep at it brother.
I saw a flathead with a black block and polished heads with red between the fins. Looked really good. As far as my old motor I think someone broke a stud and tried to drill it out. They obviously failed. The drill probably walked and they may have also cracked it from the stud hole to the valve. I think it can be fixed but is it worth it. I don't know. If not, your right, there is a lot of cool parts I can use on a new one and I will.
That crank is GOLD. Good score even if you need to find a new block. It may be easier to use a better block and re-do the top end work then transfer the moving bits from this one over.
Mike Bishop has a few books, BTW.
How to Rebuild & Modify Ford Flathead V-8 Engines (Motorbooks Workshop)
& one of the bibles,
How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod (Motorbooks Workshop)
I got a dual carb intake for a banger with two 97’s on it.
Shipped from Arizona and showed up with BOTH fuel bowls broken.
Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
^^^^^^^^^^ No offense intended but it seems to me that contacting the shipping agency and the sender would be a great deal more likely to resolve your problem than posting it on a completely unrelated thread
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