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Technical Just need a little advice on metal shopping

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by AGELE55, Jan 14, 2021.

  1. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    General questions:
    What is the go-to size for fabbing replacement support ribs under the floor and trunk? The local metals supermarket has a good selection of cold rolled (as well as hot rolled) steel.
    I’m thinking cold rolled rectangular tubing, probably 3”x1”x.065” ? D6D6167A-2960-46A7-8C17-DB09CF90BCC0.jpeg
    Also the 39 Poncho floor is in fairly fair shape so I want to scab in 18 gauge repair pieces. I’d like to bead roll the repair patches but thinking my Horrible Freight bead roller won’t handle 18 gauge. So while I’m there I’ll pick up some thick wall square tube to beef it up. If there’s any lessons learned on that front, let me know.
    Truth be told, I’m setting up to start boxing the frame also, but trying to get my head right while I’m in the store. My X frame has no X, having been hacked out by the PO. Once I finalize my frame repair concept, I’ll run that through the murder board for advice also.
     
  2. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,974

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    i used 3/4" x 2" with 1/16" wall to extend the rusted off sub and cross rails... also the built the bulkhead, seat riser, other things...
     
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  3. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    That’s actually the size I first thought, then my overkill gene kicked in.
     
  4. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,611

    phat rat
    Member

    Are you building a race car where a little extra weight matters or a street car where you want it to be strong and lasting
     
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  5. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,370

    badshifter
    Member

    Make witches hats out of 18 gauge sheet metal. All that tubing is serious overkill.
     
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  6. Dave 39
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 55

    Dave 39
    Member

    To Badshifter, what are witches hats?? Thanks Dave
     
  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,536

    manyolcars

    No automobile manufacturer has ever thought it necessary to add the extra weight of box tubing. I agree with witches hats
     
  8. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,370

    badshifter
    Member

    IMG_2797.JPG Take a strip of sheet metal and bend on a brake so it looks like an upside down witches hat. Or top hat.

    I know. Excellent graphic.

    @Dave 39
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
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  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,190

    Mr48chev
    Member

    That is a great idea if you have a brake or free access to one. More expensive than tubing if you have to pay someone to bend them up.
     
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  10. billfunk29
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 42

    billfunk29
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Check out allmetalshaping.com Unbelievable talent.
    Often a bead roll is enough.
     
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  11. Rolling beads is almost always better than building a rusty metal sandwich.
    Extra metal layers back ups like for seat braces seatbelt mounts, Or anything else you might bolt down to the floor.
     
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  12. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    Low, slow classic cruiser.. I just need a rock solid floor.
     
  13. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,992

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    1 x 2, 16 ga. is what my supplier sells, and I use. You NEED the extra support for the seat mounting, and it works in a pinch, for body mounts. I usually run 3, under the front seat mount, , the rear mount, and under the front of the back seat.
     
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  14. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    True, but my home fab (Horrible Freight Brake) limits me to 36” pieces. I’m thinking OEMs make things simple and inexpensive. In my case tubing definitely fits the “simple” requirement and I’m not limited in length.
     
    TrailerTrashToo likes this.
  15. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    I’ll try these on shorter pieces where I need support. Great idea that I never considered. I’m just limited on my brake length.
     
  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,270

    squirrel
    Member

    most of the cars we build don't end up doing winter commutes...so being a bit more rust prone might not be that big of an issue. It would be nice if we all had stamping presses or could find OEM style replacement parts for the floor and supports, but that doesn't always happen.

    Most original support metal was around 18 gauge. But if you're redesigning things, 16 gauge is probably a good move.
     
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  17. AGELE55
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 398

    AGELE55
    Member

    But I love overkill... lol
     
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  18. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 2,192

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    I mentioned this on a thread once before, so it might be of interest here. I bought a forty ford coupe one time and a previous owner had cut a complete floorboad out of a later model car with bucket seats. All he had to do was make the outside perimeter match the 40 floor he cut out. All the bracing was already there along with a tranny tunnel and even had mounts for the bucket seats............
     
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