Technical Just how long will I have to use the high zinc oil

I buy only 20/50 Valvoline with high zinc for all my collector cars. It's easy to find and not that expensive. I just wish they sold it in 5 gallon containers.

 

I bought a case of VR-1 here on sale a little under 5.00 qt @ orielly , i bought my case of penn for around 6.00 qt on amazon at the same time .. Amazon was the cheapest I found with free shipping for brad penn, at the time

 

Amen to that!!!

 

Well stated, thirtytwo. WELL STATED ! ! ! Grammar nazis. I like that.

 

man i shudda stocked up on good oil back when it was $.50 a quart.

 

Yes, because grammar doesn't matter, unless of course it changes what you mean into something opposite of what you mean.

 

Showing your age!!

Ben

 

Damn DOM, I am impressed with the info here. We have to talk diesel oil next time we have a beer or three!

Woody

 

ACHTUNG! ACHTUNG! In den Zug , fickt Analphabeten Sie, SCHNELL! SCHNELL!!

 

If your problem solving skills are so poor or become so confused because someone screwed up the use of their there and they're , or you actually think grandma is going to BE a meal....

... I believe the problem is much bigger than just english101

 

Are you really gonna eat that? Its probably well past its "best before" date...

Grandma cannibalism, grammer Nazis, you guys are killin' me here

 

Used to buy Wolf's Head straight 50-wt racing oil at a discount store, like $5 a case and that was 24 can cases. This was 1981 or so.

 

I'll have to shop around for the VR-1 locally and grab a bunch. Amazon, I paid $42 for the 6-pack with shipping, not that great. Summit had it, but a lot of restrictions on the shipping. If it was beer, I'd be upset about it. Local speed shop has it for $6.97 all day every day.

 

Time for popcorn.
Oh shit, I did not compose the sentence properly!
It's time for popcorn.

 

As usual ... One more thing that turns car people into hoarders... I think I bought around June , so it maybe a summer sale type thing... Someone posted an even better price from autozone..

Oriely had only 3qts on hand but I ordered a case and they honored the sale price

I think I noticed a pretty big price differeance on amazon between. 6 and 12 qts so you might want to check that out also

 

Zinc levels in most HDEO's is still 1200 - 1400 ppm or more. There is a limit that sulfated ash levels be no more than 1%, this is achievable while still keeping zinc levels above 1200 ppm.

 

Got Lucas break in oil for a new flat tappet build. Anything wrong with continuing to use it past break in?

 

Hoarding? I have a new engine to fire up break in and will dump that oil pronto. I don't keep any more than a couple of oil changes worth around.

Still missing the days when cases were 24 quarts and priced accordingly. I'd often split a case with a buddy.

 

Well I am a lubrication Field Engineer with one of the major oil brands, and international company you all know (I'll leave it out here because I am not here representing them, nor am I trying to sell anyone any oil). I am CLS and OMA certified with the STLE, and certified MLT II and MLA I with the ICML. I strongly disagree with your assessment about both anti-foam treat rates and zinc levels in modern HDEO's.

The current API service classification for HDEO is CJ-4, which does have a limit of 1% sulfated ash, and a limit of 1200 ppm of phosphorus. Zinc levels in most major brands of HDEO's is still >1200 ppm. Most of these oils also carry the API service classification SM, meaning they are certified for use in gasoline engines as well as diesel engines.

FYI, CJ-4 oil is backwards compatible with all earlier service classifications, and performs extremely well, better than earlier formulations. The classification contains serious upgrades in multiple performance areas, and has exceeded everyone's expectations. Any oil that carries the CJ-4 classification is a very good product that has passed extensive bench and engine tests for proven performance.

 

Yes, the moly cam lube that will be mixed in with it after break-in.

 

So is what is best to run in the motor without roller cam mand for how long? Simple question that I hope gets a simple answer

 

That product is intended for break in purposes, not for continued use. On Lucas' website it says: "Not designed for passenger car use".

Something you need to understand is that motor oils do more than just protect the camshaft, they are asked to perform a whole host of duties, including anti rust and corrosion, anti-friction, multi-viscosity, and they are tasked with keeping deposits from forming on the interior surfaces of the engine, to clean deposits that have already been laid down, and to keep contaminants in suspension until they can either be removed by the filter or drained out at the end of the service cycle. They need to neutralize acids that are generated as a result of the heat from combustion, and disperse water that accumulates via condensation and also fuels that get into the crankcase by various paths. Engine oils go through extensive development to create carefully balanced additive packages that allow the oil to do all these things. When you add aftermarket additives, like a break in oil, you can substantially disrupt that careful balance. Not all chemicals play nice together, many of them can conflict with each other and have negative reactions. To get to the point, yes, there is something wrong with continuing to use it past the break in period. Drain it out and start fresh with good oil, and don't put any extra additives in it.

 

I personally like to use a heavy duty diesel engine oil (HDEO). They are formulated with a much more robust additive package than passenger car motor oils (PCMO), and they go through extensive testing for anti-wear performance, as well as deposit control and shear stability, things that are great for older engines. I also like the 15W40 & 10W30 viscosity grades these oils come in, that's just about perfect for older V8 engines.

In years past HDEO's were not so good for gasoline engines, as they contained higher levels of sulfated ash, which can lead to piston deposits; but SA is limited in modern oils to 1%, so that is no longer a problem.

 

even if you run your usual oil for flat tappet cam break-in, you should change it after break-in if you are using any moly based cam lube, it can plug the filter.

 

Jesus, this is a car forum, not a spelling bee ! If we all jumped on every little mistake another poster made that is all we would be doing.

Don

 

Woah, hope no-one took ME seriously - we was just havin' fun, mostly. Spelling didn't become standardized until relatively recently. Plenty of the most intelligent folks years ago wrote well, but they spelled words differently, sometimes in the same paragraph.

I have read or been a member of a lot of forums. It's only a problem recently mostly, some folks have never learned any punctuation whatsoever, never break anything up into paragraphs. It's painful to try and read, nobody bothers usually.

Lewis & Clark Journals are fun to read, they were both very smart men of their day - but the expedition account is full of stuff like "Muskeetors Vurry Trublesum To Day"

 

I know I was! Man, I needed a good laugh, and I had one, even if no-one else did!!!

 

Well then you should set a good example and not use multiple punctuations. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

good example of WHAT??

 

Thanks for this great info. Confirms my use of HD diesel oil in my '54 261 for the last several years.