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Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TomT, Jul 13, 2015.

  1. Tom, congratulations my friend, the coupe turned out beautiful.

    Hope to see it someday, now go out and rack up some miles. HRP
     
  2. You will see it at the All 32 Year in - looking forward to it!
     
    loudbang and Bowtie Coupe like this.
  3. Looks & sounds great! Congrats on that first drive.
     
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  4. That's even better, Tom!!!:):cool: I haven't seen the list yet. We have a big show meeting this w/e. Probably see it then. I'll be running the merchandise table as usual. Please stop by and say howdy, if I don't see you at set up.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  5. Please drop by the merchandise table and say hello.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. Took my time but managed to read your entire build. Learned some new things. Thanks for sharing. Beautiful car and neighborhood. Sad to say, so far I've been an arm chair Hotrodder, but I have a couple builds going and when one is done I'll know what it is like to drive one. Thanks for the inspiration.
     
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  7. I will do that .....
     
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  8. Thank you and thanks for your support during the build - I appreciate it .....
     
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  9. Thank you for taking the time to look through the build- it definitely had some interesting twists and turns! My advice to you - spend 15 minutes a day on a build and believe it or not, it gets done somehow. Should you have a build thread started please let me know so I can follow along . Good luck!
     
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  10. Yes Tom, one of my builds is here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...at-a-snails-pace-in-ultra-slow-motion.647348/ . This car is the focus of my collection, and my only active build thread. I figured having one build thread at a time would condense focus, but I'm failing miserably. It appears my joy is in the journey no matter the destination.

    Doug.
     
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  11. That's great Tom, we always have some new Deuces show up,I can't wait for the All Deuce Run # 19 . HRP
     
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  12. Me neither - I’ve missed too many ....
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2019
    loudbang likes this.
  13. So I have been chipping away at the small punch list with the biggest issue so far still being my soft brake pedal. I am using a Wildwood proportioning valve for the first time and I have been chasing a several leaks. As of right now it stops but I do not have a warm fuzzy for any panic stops.

    I had fixed my sticky passenger door latch and it WAS working fine save for one time today when I heard some parts fall to the boot on of the door when I turned the outside handle to open it and it will not open at all (again) from the outside. I can maneuver the interior handle will allowing the door to open , close, and lock and latch. I just cannot lock the car at the moment or I am sol to try and get back in ..... I may not attempt to fix it until after Jalopyrama but we shall see. Life is starting to get busy again .....

    I have been driving it more and for longer distances - it does ride and handle nice but I did have a steering wheel shimmy today at 50-55. Windshield gasket is in so I will start on that once I get the car up on jack stands to work on the brakes, windshield gasket, and clutch return spring since the weather looks lousy through Wednesday or more.

    After all that’s done I want to drive it longer distances in prep for the Jalopyrana drive - about 60 miles or so. That will really be it’s debut of which I am really looking forward to ....
    95362431-483F-4BE5-B214-E41EB6B323AF.jpeg
     
  14. Absolutely love it. Easily one of best builds on here in a long time.

    If you don’t mind my asking what size tires and wheels did you end up running? I don’t do bias ply tires and those really look good to me.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. Thank you ! Fronts are Austones from Universal tire, 5:50-5:75/16 (600s are just too tall in my opinion and these are about an inch shorter?) and the rears are Duvais LT235/85-r16, almost 32” tall .... (on Tirerack) tread patterns are close considering they are two different make tires .....
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  16. WOWSIR!!
    What a great car! I've followed it since day one; hope to see you on the road. Maybe All
    Deuce Run.
     
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  17. Thank you very much and my plans are to be at the All Deuce run - look forward to seeing you there.....
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. Spent most of the day driving the new ride - cruised around in the morning, just trying to feel the car out. It seems the speedo is only about 2-3 mph higher in gears 1-4, and in 5th the speedo registers about 10% higher.

    Then I decided to take a longer ride to visit my engine builder involving speeds 60+ and maybe 15 miles away. Started out and once we hit about 63 or 64, I had a pretty good wobble up front. Came home, tightened the front lug nuts, readjusted the front brakes and off we went again (I was with my neighbor Dennis). No more wobble but definitely a slight wheel hop. Also at some point I heard a noise when I depressed the clutch pedal I hadn’t had before and it has happened a few more times. Need to check that out....

    My engine builder loved the car and as we talked he looked over things with a fresh eye. The front brake line hose connections to the two front wheel cylinder were leaking ever so slightly, found a couple nuts to tighten - a pair of fresh eyes really helps. Then we stopped by johnrodz shop and shot the baloney for a bit, got some gas and I made my way home via an interstate. Things felt really good, so downnwrntvthe pedal and at 83 she was a icky solid - no wander, not jerking on road seams and at 83 mph my speedo read 92-93 - about 10%. Also the numbers I had figured out for the rpm at 75 also worked out great. Around town, she’s docile, in 4th say at 45 she’s at 1900 rpm - a little high but not terrible. My roadster is 1700 rpm at 45 in 4th. But in 5th with the torqey Nailhead, 73 mph at 1800 rpm. Don’t she purrrrrrr!

    The brakes - so far the Wildwood adjustable prop valve is at two turns out from all the way in and this is my best pedal to date. I will fill the mc, bleed it again, check fluid level and maybe lengthen the pedal shaft a bit and see how that feels. Biggest thing is that I am making progress ....

    So, my final punch list is as follows and some repeat what’s said above :

    • check for leaks
    • bleed brakes final time
    • adjust brake pedal throw?
    • remove ws, prep, install new gasket
    • right hand outside mirror setup - right now I can
    only see the moon in it
    • clutch return spring replace to lighter on
    • investigate clutch pedal noise
    • check all bolts underneath
    • gas gauge has been flakey - works then not - I am
    thinking loose connection somewhere
    • wheel hop - need to investigate that, more than
    likely tire needs to have the bead broken and be
    reseated on the rim
    • hood straps - right now length is set just with
    tension - need to set length and make a hole for the
    nipple to hold its length
    • aim headlights after checking them at night
    • fix/replace pass door latch if time permits before
    Jalopyrama
    • long term items
    • redo the roof insert
    • perhaps move the brake pad left and away from
    the gas pedal - it’s tight right now

    That's it - we are nearly there....
     
  19. The car looks great, Tom.

    What a subtle blend of traditional and vintage-inspired. Definitely not a barn find, but not slavish to contemporary styling ideas either. Nothing sticks out and shouts, "Look at me!", and yet the combination of stance, build, parts, and paints looks fresh and new to the eye. That interior, for example, is just killer. Quite an achievement.

    Who says that there are no new ideas to bring to a '32 build?

    Well done, sir, well done.
     
  20. Pete - I really appreciate your kind words. Your description is absolutely spot on imho - thank you so much, Pete .....
     
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  21. Been working on my punch list - so here goes .....

    Clutch rattle was a loose exhaust baffle - shimmed that, hood strap holes have been done, found and fixed 2 leaks:
    1- rear axle housing breather was leaking
    2- oil pressure gauge line was leaking at the block
    Started working on the passenger door latch as it was getting to the point where it wouldn’t hold the door closed. Took the door apart but was not able to remove it. It was the spring that had fallen to the bottom of the door - a piece broken off on the inside of the spring. Made some calls and I have to get the window out of the way. I have a few things going on the next two or three days so we shall see. I replaced the clutch return spring - a much better feel on my left leg! Got a better handle on the Wildwood proportioning valve - decrease direction was not reducing just front braking but reducing it for all 4 wheels. I have to try it but the pedal feels much better knowing that info and adjusting it accordingly. The gas gauge is not getting 12 volts - still checking ....

    I am getting there - I ordered parts for the passenger latch fix and hopefully they will get here soon. I still have that big smile on my face though!
     
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  22. ZZLEGEND
    Joined: Jul 20, 2008
    Posts: 207

    ZZLEGEND
    Member

    Just watched your two videos again Tom. That coupe looks great. You did good. Mark.
     
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  23. Thank you, Mark - I really do appreciate it .....
     
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  24. Got some time after my Dads 95 Birthday luncheon to get everything out of the door except the window itself.

    Got the door panel off and happily began removing the window latch. Dummy me, I have done enough 40 Ford windows to realize the door latch is the first thing to be installed and the LAST to be removed. Called around, posted on the Fordbarn, then spoke to my good friend jacksandeuces. So, the window has to be out of the track to remove it. I removed the screw at the top of the metal channel ....
    A4F1BA1B-EAA4-4F67-8A54-F3483CBA876D.jpeg
    I then removed the window stops so I could drop the window down far enough to get disco’d from the window riser mechanism .... the short black lines are marks of where they were installed. I cut the heads down of the rivets and then drilled them out
    FD4AAD1E-82C1-4C9B-9CED-47004FCDCF7B.jpeg
    2F3A4232-FA23-405C-9F75-E65D3F5DDAF4.jpeg

    Now I halteady had the door latch disconnected from the door but it wraps around the channel. I got it out of the way enough to drop the window down ....
    24C0E153-9695-4026-827D-CFF587D68AF5.jpeg
    F6362D4E-22A7-4AB3-85C7-F0C6EC07AE90.jpeg
    ... and got the door latch out and the window riser out. Of course after doing all of that I removed the tack strip rails .... duuuuhhhhh
    3FC6851F-5BA2-40D3-B34D-81A04AC3265F.jpeg
    These were riveted also ....
    6069B89C-849E-4B98-9BAE-C8FE6D48AF35.jpeg
    So I am now left with the window in the door. I did not trust myself to get this out on my own so I hope to enlist my neighbor Dennis tomorrow to help me out.

    I have ordered a UPAC door latch mechanism, a spring for the old unit, the outside door thin metal channel, and a set of window felts. The thin metal chanel was partly broken sometime in the past or by me and the felt on that side was chewed up definitely by me working the door latch out. I have a tendency to be a bull in a china shop sometimes - live and learn I guess.

    I also made a few fixes from my punch list - the headlight hold down bolts have a square shank at the head to fit into the slot of the ball end for ease of adjustment. However, the square portion of the shank was too long and the bolt would not seat right in the headlight bar sockets. Ground off a little from all 4 edges and I am golden, and drilled the bottom holes of the rear lights having been satisfied with their position. I will rust protect the parts I have removed from the door and the areas I can reach within the door. Sometimes you take steps backward in order to go forward.....
     
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  25. Got the new door latch, striker plate, and a couple other things. Door latch change is in and works fine,l and the window riser is in as well. Just waiting for the window felt and metal track for the handle side of the door. Unfortunately the parts are still 6-8 days out so I will start on the front windshield gasket as soon as the time permits. Things will be hectic up until Fri-Sat but we’ll see what kind of time I can carve out to remove the shield ......
     
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  26. Keep chipping away, you’re making good progress!
     
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  27. Thank you - trying to dot my “i’s” and cross my “t’s” so she’s ready to DRIVE! I have at least 3-4 trips planned in the 1000-1500 mile round trip range this year .....
     
  28. AHHH, the joys of 32 window removal.
    I've had my glass in and out so much, I finally got a procedure down. You are correct, the window reg. has to come out in order to get the latch pieces out. But you do not have to remove the tack strip rails.
    Too little, too late for you now; I'm sorry I did not see your need on FB.
    Maybe the next guy can use it.

    What I figured out, after many tries and expletives, was:

    *Pull up and out the front and rear felts from the metal channels. Hopefully they're not permanently attached. Mine were new and I was able to disengage the clips. The glass at varying heights helps this procedure.

    *Roll the glass down far enough to disengage the lift arm rollers from the track slots.

    *Lower the glass down in the door to the bottom, and support on a 2x4 turned sideways. My doors did not have the riveted on stops. Apparently there was a change in production, and the later regulators had built in stops. The UP parts have the built in stops also.

    *The glass and track will now slip forward and rearward enough to get it out of the vertical metal tracks. Leave it laying in the bottom of the door.

    *Crank the reg. arms up halfway, and remove from the door. (6 screws)

    *Remove the rear metal channel (2screws), then have your way with the latch mechanism.

    *In case you want/need to remove the glass, rotate it clockwise as you raise it up, the angled cut at the front allows this.

    *Once it's accessible, pull the glass up and out the slot. I found that if the rear metal track is removed, it will come up and out without tilting.

    Bill
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019
  29. Thank you hotrodA! It may be too late for this go round but I am sure I will need it in the future. I think my feltvstrip on the hingecside is glued in - it will not move.

    So, the window is still in the door. I am thinking I will have both felt strips installed and there should be enough room in the hinge side felt to move the glass forward/into that strip so the glass will be able to swing in and slide into the rear felt track by sliding the glass back and into that back felt channel. At that point I can slide the glass up in the tracks and connect the window riser arms. Is this going to work? Should I be able to do this?
     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.
  30. Tom,
    It wouldn't work for me. Just not enough space. I tried that first. Here's what I came up with. Takes just a few minutes

    *If the wide front fuzzy channel is fixed, I would slide the glass all the way forward in to it, still supported by the2x4 at the bottom. Then slide the removable rear metal channel down through the opening slot and attach with the two screws. The glass should be snug in the front fuzzy but very loose in the bare rear channel. Raise up the glass about half way without attaching the lift arms. If your 2x4 is the right length, stand it on end to prop up the glass.

    *Take the rear fuzzy channel and lube the back and the metal channel with some Windex. Start sliding it down between the metal channel and edge of the glass. Since the glass isn't attached to the lift arms, and is angle cut at the front, you can wiggle it front and back and up/down to create some clearance. As the fuzzy tightens up, push up the glass a couple of inches and lower it and the fuzzy together. Repeat, repeat, repeat. You'll need to bend the fuzzy in a gentle radius toward the front to get it to arc down between the channel and glass. When it's in place, lower and raise the glass and seat the fuzzy in to the metal channel all the way with a piece of 1/4" plywood.

    *The repro fuzzy channels may have the lower clip riveted in the wrong place, so you'll have to either reposition it, remove it, or redrill the round hole in the metal channel . It can't go upward once the top's in place. Tighten up the upper clip and hook it over the lip at the top of the channel. Use a spacer in the fuzzy groove so you don't crush it and crimp the clip tight with pliers.
    Try moving the glass up and down by hand. If it's all good, lower it and reattach the lift arm rollers.

    *You might find it easier to leave the regulator to last. Raise the glass all the way to the top and hold it in place with a couple of screwdrivers through the triangle shaped holes in the inner panel. Reattach the regulator, hook up the rollers and take a break.

    Sorry to be so long winded, but since I have no pics, it took a 1000 words.
    Bill
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019
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