Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Got to work on the project today, continuing on fixing the seat. I made up some top supports to spread the load ...

This next pic shows the oak strip used to fill the gap between the seat frame and oak riser ...

I cut sone 1x2 heavy wall tubing to run the threaded rod through, and tack welded them in place ...

I will weld and clean things up good once the body comes off the frame. I still have to fill the gap between the bottom of the oak seat riser and floor pan, and from underneath the floor pan to the 1x2 tubing ...

Until thw body is off, I can move back on to gauge cluster holes and mounting and the hidden switch panel for lights, ignition, and fuel pump switch ... it felt good to finally be out in the garage. Haven't been home much and when we were we were entertaining. All for good stuff mind you but now it's time to get back to work and keep chipping away ....

 

So I have been working on the project but I am having trouble uploading photos. My phone just had an update installed .... Grrrrr! I have tried all my recent photos and none will load - all are too large - so I will fill them in later ....

First, my buddy John from LI took care of double D'ing the intermediate shaft for my steering. I checked the steering wheel location one more time and it's good to go.

With some cabinet grade 3/4" plywood I cut out what I needed to drill the holes for my 35 Buick gauges. I first cut a piece that is a snug fit into the backside if my blank gauge pod.

I then cut a blank to use as a surface to drill into. Double checking by my gauge locations on the pod one more time I moved each of the outside gauges inboard 1/8" so the outside edges of the gauges are not blocked by the stainless surround of the dash opening and drilled pilot holes ....

Today I visited Johnrodz here on the HAMB and with the use of his milling machine, we first drilled the gauge holes in the wood inside the pod to "guide" the hole cutters and keep them from oscillating when drilling through the metal ....

We then set the pod upside down onto my drill board, clamped it down onto the milling table, and cut the 4" hole with a 3 3/4" hole saw for the speedo ....

The two 3" outside gauge holes were cut with a 2 3/4" cutter next ....

The end result looks great. I will mount the pod into my dash and use a Dremel to trim out the holes to fit the speedo first then each of the outside gauges to make sure they are as straight as possible ...

Pics are here! ....

 

Despite time at both Carlisle and Hershey, I have continued to chip away at things. With the dash pod gauge holes cut, I mounted the pod in the car and installed the dash just to see how things looked and it looked straight and centered.

Using a 1 1/2" barrel sander with 80 grit sandpaper, I shaved the speedo opening and was able to place it in the dash.

For the outer two gauges I will need to tweak the pod mounting to pull it towards the interior of the car, basically angling it up from the bottom to get the clearance and look I want. But, I kind of got sidetracked with the latest news ....



My engine builder called and said he needed the rest of the stuff to fire up the engine next week. Man, I am pumped - it's been a journey but the engine shop has worked real hard to correct the issues the engine had: bent crank, elongated some of the main bearings, cam bearings not seating right. The only thing we can figure out is that the motor must have hydrolocked during initial startup. But, they worked through all of the issues and she is ready for initial breakin.

I collected all of the items I still had at home, one of them being the alt and alt bracket I made up. To be honest, the bracket I made just did not thrill me. So, a couple months ago I bought the Alan Grove bracket for the later 401 since it did not say anything about the 364. This is set to run on the center of three pulleys and I needed to be on the inner most pulley. My hope was to be able to modify it to work with the earlier 364. With my engine all together I did a mock up and lo and behold it all ready lined up with the inner most pulley perfectly.


I thought the middle "crank" pulley was the pulley I shaved off a while back. I lucked out, or shall I say, dumb lucked out on this one in that the pulley I shaved off was the outermost one for the Buick. It's now all mounted and in place and the engine should be all done after breakin sometime next week. In the instructions they say you will need a 51.5, 52, or 52.5" belt. Well, belts are not categorized by length but by application. It took me a bit to learn how to Google the info correctly but I got it since the parts store guys were just out of their element. Basically, I requested the part number from/for a specific length pulley rather than look for a pulley of a specific length since the folks at auto parts stores only work off part numbers or it's application.
Live and learn ....

Carlisle and Hershey could not have happened at a better time. I picked up all the bits and pieces I needed to finish things with the last stuff just ordered from BobDrake as they offered free shipping for show attendees. Kaching!

It's all starting to come together - there's a lot more to do but I feel like I'm turning the corner ....

 

Tom, looks like your gas shield on your mig welder was not working when you made these tack welds.

 

Thank you ....like I have said, I am a lousy welder but a great grinder! Lol! This will be done properly once I get the frame on a rotisserie ...

Got the final gauge hole trimmed out - just have to trim the pod ....



It literally just makes it and the colors are perfect .....

 

I was able to trim out the pod to clear the gauges nicely but the pod itself really had no strength. I am making up some support straps to replace what strength was removed. Using the wood template used to cut the holes to make the pod face, I got the face flat and made up the one side, the worst of the two sides ...


The self tapping screws are just there to hold things in place - it will be all bolted together ...

The gauges are finally coming together ....

 

That's funny I have always said the same thing about my welding . I recognized the weld problem as I have made a few tacks like that before I realize I have forgotten to turn on the gas.

 

Lol!

 

Back on the gauge pod - I will let the pictures tell the tale ...









I am now removing the pod as I have marked the mounting holes using a mirror and felt tip pen while the gauges were just pressed in and level.

Lighting is next and I have an idea for that .....

 

All gauges are now installed using the original mounting locations. I will get panhead slotted bolts to replace the Phillips. This will match the bolts holding the dash in place ....

Now for lighting - the original setup looks like this ...

... and slip between the gauges where there is a window that catches the light from the lights underneath ...

But - a Model A at the Jalopyrama had a 32 style dash with the center upper bolt having an led light to illuminate his gauges similar to the 28-29 Model As. I spoke with him, said it worked great but is was VERY bright at night and there are no dimmers for leds. Went to Google and found one. So, here are the lights ...

... and the dimmer - even has a remote ....

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yG4AAOSw2gxY0A1h/s-b275x275.jpg

First, I will see how mounting the new light in the original setup might work and then up on the dash. Stay tuned ....

 

So here it is in the center dash hole ....

Looks great but there's a slight shadow across the top I can't get rid of BUT all of the essential into is visible. Also I cannot get rid of the shadow on the inner (center) portion of the two outer gauges. I could run two of these but that would mean drilling into the dash and I really do not want to do that with this jenny dash.

So, on to trying the stock light setup modified with the two led bulbs first ....

I like this much better - it was only a slight modification to the original setup ...


But, after installation here is what I have ....

Need to go back to where I was light location wise in the stock holders. Oh well, I know it works nicely - need to take a break and mull it over ....

 

Indirect lighting can be a bear to deal with. Is there a way to space the speedo back to get more light around the edge? You might consider making a baffle around the odometer to limit the brightness there.
Was the lamp position different in the second picture from the last. The second picture looks better.

 

I have been battling to get what I had initially that I liked so much but to no avail. I have tried all three methods of illumination, and none is that good. I was actually thinking if using two - indirect and the light above - just so I can see the speedo.

I tried spacing the speedo back - ng - I even tried an led light strip - ng. So, I may have to settle with the combo idea and see how that works out.

Pics to come ....

 

Good to see you back on it...looks good!

 

Thanks, Tom!

 

Well, I have battled with the lighting and let's just call it a draw. It's better but not stellar ...


Although not in complete darkness it is better than what I had.

I'll get a pic in the dash in a bit ....

 

So, only marginally better in the dash ...

... but it's time to move forward and revisit this at a later time ....

It's on to seatbelts, ignition and light switch mounts, and a tach mount . ..

I keep inching forward ...

 

Got to work on my switches locations, made some brackets, but I noticed the cowl vent has the wrong pieces installed. It works and open and closed but the ratcheting arm is wrong, it has the wrong plate and the arm may be the wrong one. I had a 32 vent plate and verified it was incorrect so I can't weld in anything just in case the correct parts may interfere with something. I will order the pieces tonight.

As for the switch locations for lights and ignition pull (starter button is installed in the column mount), I like the tucked under the dash and out of sight but easily accessible. The ignition pull will be under the area between the speedo and amp/oil pressure gauge ...

The light switch which is a three position w/high beams will be between the speedo and gas/water temp gauges ... no pic of that just yet. One final item is a power port for phone and gps. I found this unit at Hershey last year and I really like the look but unfortunately it will be mostly hidden ...


... this is on the passenger side of the dash.

Anyway, changed gears and started working up a tach mount. I started with trying to make up a second short tube that would meld in with the steering column cup but it just didn't look right to me. I just wanted something simple. Started drawing up what I wanted and came up with a simple "A" frame stand that is up a bit into the steering wheel cup and uses the chrome cup strap to hold the tach ...

Once welded to the column there's enough dash clearance, it's at just about the same height if the other gauges, and is simple enough for my liking. Here's how it looks held in place. ...

My hand is mostly in the way but you get the idea. Here's a couple more pics to get the overall look ...


Tach is slightly smaller than the speedo.

Finally I will install two switches for future uses unknown at the moment. One may be for interior lights and no thoughts of the other but I would rather have them in now than have to do them later ..

Now I need to clean up the shop but it's a mess because I'm making progress!

 

Got some info on the cowl vent items - the only item incorrect is the hinge itself and I have one. So I am good to go there. Cleaned up the shop today and worked on a carb issue on my roadster. The original one was loading up so I put on my spare carb I carry - ran just as bad but in a different way. Turns out the carb base butterfly's were hanging up - swapped to the original original carb base and the new problems went away . But now I am getting a popping back through the exhaust at idle. I will swap out the plugs and check for spark plug wire issues but if that doesn't not resolve it, I will take a compression check. If it goes this far it may be a weak exhaust valve spring. My last event to do with the car is the town Christmas parade so, other than troubleshooting, I will leave things alone right now. I need to remain focused on this 5-window build. I feel like I have turned the corner finally and don't want to lose momentum .....

Yeah, I know - I'm wondering how come it took me so long to get to this point too! All I can say is time flies when you're having fun - Lol!

 

Got a late start today but I welded the tach mount in and permanently mounted the two switch locations ...


Coming together, little by little ...

 

That looks awesome!!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Thanks, Chuck - progress is progress, big or small!

 

Back at it today and got some pretty good progress, at least for me! Got the seat belts installed ...
The seat belt color makes more sense if you compare it to the Mexican blanket I will be using on the seat ...

I also mounted my accessory plug - had to shim it a bit to clear the dash wheel pulling the plug ...

So while the body is still on the frame I wanted to mount the rear lights. I am modifying the 40 pickup style rear light bracket - I first sent it to a right angle about where I thought I needed it ...

Somehow it just wasn't tucked in enough for me. I cut the bracket separating the attachment pad from the rest of the bracket and cut what was remaining at an angle. This took a bit of trial and error but I think k I now have the look I want ...



It's been tough to see it without the tank but I have double checked it against my roadster which has the same tank and rear tire size. Now on to duplicate the bracket on the other side .....

 

I bought a Vintique grill shell to use for right now as the original grill shell I have needs a lot of work but I am going to use the original insert. Put it all together a while back and things did not line up very well ...

Things were not right with the grill shell from the start. Do, today I got tired if looking at it all cockeyed and made some mods to get it right. After about 40 minutes, I think I have it just about there ...

I wanted the filler as original but the holes in the shell were off - I still need to tweak the top most hole to the right and then I think it's done.
I then jumped on the second taillight bracket, fabbed it up, and got both lights mounted for a good "look see" ...

It won't be to everyone's liking but I am very happy with it. Because if the large protruding lens, it also doubles as a side marker light which I think is a good thing. Anyway, figured I would wire them up and see how they look lit ...

These are the running lights - I am using the UPAC led 1157 styled bulb - it's pricey at $20 each but it is nice and bright. Here they are with just the brake lights ...

Tuff to see in the daylight and the running lights are not on at this time but they are pretty bright on their own as well.
Here's a pic of the modified 40 Ford pickup taillight brackets. They worked great as the 34 taillight housings have the same bolt holes as the stock 40 pickup taillights ...

The stock version actually runs from 38-56 ...

Johnrodz was over yesterday to check out my progress - he helped cut the holes for the dash gauges. He really liked how it turned out. He also sat in the car and thought the steering wheel location, gauge locations, and switches were all to his liking. Having someone to actually sit in the car other than me and feel comfortable and liking the layout was a great feeling, especially since there is a pretty big size difference between us.

BTW, on my flattie issue, changing the plugs made my roadster run better but it still has the popping noise. Will set up a compression check soon .....

 

Worked on finishing up a few things today. First I got the radiator top piece all straight and ready for the cap (when it comes in) ...

I also cleaned up the taillight brackets and got them painted ...


I then removed the steering column and made a first pass at cleaning up the tach mount and steering wheel bell/column weld areas ...



I forgot to work on the tach welds in the last pic but it's all getting there. I have actually made two more passes since and it's nearly done.
Finally I worked on the fuse panel mount and where I will be running wires through the firewall and beyond - amazing how much time it takes for all the little things ....

 

Been busy with other things but I did finish cleaning up the tach mount and put some paint on it. Pics are lousy - could not get the lighting right ...


I used Krylon's Matte Black as that seemed to match closely to the black on the steering wheel.
I have to send my tach off and have it converted from needing a sending unit to not needing one.
I've cleaned up the shop after this latest go round and I am planning out fuse box location and how the wiring will run. Like so many others do in building a 32 (and jacksandeuces has shown me this), with the firewall in place and the body off is the best way/time to do all of this. I will run the taillight/backend wiring under the body and down the framerail and I will be using the 40 Ford firewall wiring cover to route the front lighting/horn, engine wiring, and rear lighting through it. I have seen this done and it's a nice clean look. The only instrument issue will be the mech water temp gauge wire. That will need to snake back through the firewall before removing the body. I should have mounted my gauges to the firewall but did not. Live and learn. The mech oil pressure gauge line will have a disconnect inside. I also need to make a plate for my pedal setup that covers the large holes needed to lift the body up and away easily.
If all goes well, I hope to remove the body and place it back on the body dolly before Christmas, mock up my wiring, install my front and rear brakes, run brake and fuel lines, and whatever else, then blow the frame apart for finish welding, cleanup, and paint. My goal is to have the car ready for the all 32 run in the beginning of June. We shall see ...

 

I mentioned the 40 Ford wiring cover I am using on my firewall - here's a couple pics. My initial choice was to install it in this position ...

But the three exits out from under it were not the best. Although I need 3 outlets, one shoots up in the air and the other two are just not right. Played around a bit and came up with a position I like better ....


The second pic shows the water temp line going out of the lower outlet where the front lighting, horn, and yellow driving light wiring will also exit. The right most outlet will be for the rear lighting, and the left most engine wiring.
The small led signal lamps came in and I set them up under the dash by the signal lever ...

The two outer are green and the brights indicator is blue. I have red and green ones in my roadster and they are bright ...


You can't see the lights themselves from the driver's seat but you will see them flashing ...
I also worked on the pedal setup - just need to trim the floor a little so the body will lift off easily. The pedals will need some further tweaking but I will do that during final assembly with my engine and trans installed.
I keep inching forward ...

 

I finally got to doing the package tray under the seat today. This whole package tray thing is only because I needed to raise and position the seat for my height. I have a little portable table saw that I took outside - of course it's like 35 degrees out, coldest day of the year so far, froze my butt off, but it was worth it I think ...
I started with laying down some insulation ...


There are two layers to take up the void between the body "hats" as I am placing the package tray on top of the hats ...


I then cut the back "wall" of the tray making a relief for the seat belt bolts ...

For the front wall I thought I would go about as tall as the back ....

but I didn't like the height difference with the seat riser so I cut it down to the same height ...

I like this much better and there's room to slide stuff in without lifting the seat ...

I also needed a spot for my cutoff switch -so I drilled and relieved a hole, mounting it on the driver side. Remember the nailhead has the starter on the driver side ...

With it in place ...

For sides I just used some oak 1x2.
I am happy with the look/outcome - it will all be covered with something, probably carpet, so even with the seat on, it will hopefully look like it was supposed to be there ...

Once I remove the seat I can screw everything together and trim the one seat riser end as seen in the last pic. This is not something that will be removable. In removing the tray I also remembered I need to complete the screwing down of the under the seat floor piece - forgot about that!

I have also been cleaning up the garage, getting the body dolly ready for the body again (had to shore it up in the middle as it was sagging) as it became a collection are for "stuff" for the project. With Gabby's help we flipped the rolling chassis around to make things easier for 12/16.

Another coupled items are now checked off my long list - but it's getting shorter .....

 

Sometimes it's a struggle to get some quality garage time but I finally got everyday stuff out if the way enough to put some time in ... I was under a couple "deadlines" so there are no pics of my present progress as yet ...

I made the two switch mounts and added a third for a "just in case" scenario - one left by the driver door post for interior lights, two under the dash just right of the steering wheel, one for my yellow driving light, the other tbd. I also started screwing together the package tray under the seat. I would like everything, the risers and the package tray, to come out together as a unit. The seat frame will have to come out before I can screw the back side together, though.

I also started on a battery mount in my trunk. I am short and the stock seat does not fold nor flip open like a 40 seat, so the box will have to be rearward for me to easily service it. So I made up a platform with the battery between the two vertical trunk supports on the driver side (my starter is on the driver side and this car was a rumble seat). It's functional but not really what I had in mind. I am thinking of levelling the trunk floor into two separate areas. The back area over the center hump, and from the backside of the hump to the seat mount. I have to mull it over though - I am open for suggestions, btw.....

I also may change the location of the shut-off switch - this all works into the floor flattening idea so we shall see .... moving forward ....

 

So here's a pic of the battery setup ....

Like I said, I need it to be close to the back because I am short. At present but the wood is screwed together but nothing into the floor. I like the location but it has got me to thinking of maybe covering the entire trunk floor. I know my roadster is a pain but the seat back will fold down (cut down Caravan seat) - nothing like that with the stock seat.

If I covered the floor I would not use 3/4" ply - something s bit less than 1/2" but have enough support underneath because of the thinner material. I would insulate first then put the flooring down and the behind the seat floor would be lower than than of the tail section. I would carpet and I could also have straps holding things in their place vs having them sliding around. Since I am hoping to remove the body off the frame Sat, Dec 16th, I will leave things alone at the moment and think about it. I can always do that at a later date ...