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Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TomT, Jul 13, 2015.

  1. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    So I am back from the LSRU (had a blast btw) and for the next several weeks will have only short stints of time to work on the project. But, I did squeeze in some time today ....
    So I am using a 39 Ford p-up column drop. It had a stock switch and locking steering column mechanism still installed but I wanted to update it a bit to match what I needed for my project. So, I removed the stock switch and gutted the column drop of the locking mechanism. Jacksandeuces had an idea to put a modern switch for something where the original resided and use the keyway of the locking mechanism for a starter button. So, I started with the switch first ...
    I bought a 2-pole switch for my 2-speed heater that just about fit in the backside of the column drop ...
    IMG_20170414_153231874.jpg
    Using trial and error I opened up the opening so the switch would slip in leaving enough thread showing to lock it down ..
    IMG_20170414_153154264.jpg
    To "gut" the opening I made up my own setup using my table-top drill press and a carbide bit ...
    IMG_20170414_155352262.jpg
    ... my own home made, small, mill. The result wasn't too bad ....
    IMG_20170414_153141330.jpg
    I am satisfied with this and I will wrap the switch connectors with electrical tape just to be sure to keep things from grounding where they should not ....
    Tomorrow I will work on the starter button hole, opening it up to use a stock 40 Ford starter button .... I will pick up a starter button at Carlisle next week. If you are attending, I am in II29, 3 rows down from Gate 3 - stop by and say hey ...
     
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  2. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Things sometimes do not go as planned and it turned out to be an interesting day ....

    I was looking for and I found stuff to take to Spring Carlisle but then I find a whole bunch of rear brake parts. I don't even remember getting half of this stuff but I thought I would go through what have for the project just to be sure.

    I have 4 sets of rear drums all taking different shoe widths - 1.75", 2", 2.25", and 2.5". Way back in this thread I assembled what I thought I was going to use for backing plates, shoes, etc. - a 2" shoe setup from an 8" rear for a Granada/Monarch . Thinking about what I had, I would like to use the most braking power for the fastest or torquiest car which is my project since I am using F-100 brakes up front. I started checking my backing plates and 3 of the 4 sets had about 2.25" of offset from the bolt point of the backing plate to the axle to the underside of the center lip of the drum I put on it. The 4th 2.5" width shoe drum was 2.5" away. That one was therefore the anomally and I had the wrong backing plates assembled. Let me say that all were 8" and small bearing 9" rear backing plates I was messing with.

    Called a few buds and my parts supplier, and got no real definitive answer. Looking around the shop, I have a Bronco 9" rear w/backing plates but no drums sitting in the garage. I removed one backing plate and tried it with the 2.5" drum and voila, it was a match. Tried it on the 9" in my project, using both the Bronco drum and backing plate, and it fit perfectly. Since I am going to Carlisle, I will bring the old shoes and backing plate and drum for reference as there will be vendors there that I can get the parts from to assemble my rear brakes - again.

    Now, if I hadn't been looking for stuff to sell at Carlisle, found the brake stuff, and got side tracked doing a rear brake mock up I never would have known I had the wrong parts installed and would have gotten jammed up when attempting to install the rear brakes, down the line, etc, etc .... who knows what trouble I would have gotten into then ....

    I guess I must have either CRS - Car Rebuilder Stupidity - or I am brilliant - which cannot be - as I never knew what I actually had and it was just dumb luck that I really did have the right stuff but was not using it.

    Hmmmm - is it just me or do others go through this in a build? Ya screw up and then the right way appears and you are back on track.

    Pretty damn funny when you thing about it - anyway, I think it's time for a cold one ....
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2017
    Jet96, loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  3. Grandadeo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 655

    Grandadeo
    Member

    Tom this may sound a little bizarre but I just realized something. As I'm ready your thread and since I know you my feeble brain is hearing it in your voice. Sure makes reading a thread more personal. Not that your thread wouldn't be interesting - it just adds to it. I'll shut up now.

    Lee
     
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  4. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Uh oh Lee - we've officially been declared ummmmm I forgot ...... Lol!
     
  5. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Spring Carlisle was kind to me for purchases, not so much for selling. I did get to purchase this 35 Buick gauge cluster that I hope will be in my project. Glass over the gauges is curved slightly and I really like the look...
    IMG_20170423_151654433.jpg
    Bought this off hamb'r greenie-ready who was nice enough to bring them to Spring Carlisle ( he was going to be there anyway) so I could see them. There were others in line to purchase the unit but he gave me first crack. Thank you!

    A possible issue with the gauges are their size - the speedo is 4" in diameter and the two side gauges are 3" in diameter - and whether the pod should remain engine turned or perhaps painted a color. Somehow I hope to make them work and look right in my stock 32 gauge opening. They have a unique mounting system that will be helpful so stay tuned ....

    At Carlisle I bought starter buttons to finish my column mount. With a little more grinding I got it to where I had envisioned it ...
    IMG_20170423_151535459.jpg
    IMG_20170423_151629534.jpg
    I am busy with other things the next 2+ weeks but will post any updates that may happen .....
     
  6. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Well, 2+ weeks turned out to be almost 2 months - life takes over some times. I was pretty busy though, just not on my project. But, some progress was made ....

    I ordered and received all of my brake hardware - I am using the 2.5" brake shoe setup, backing plates are all cleaned up and painted so that's one of the first things I'll be installing everything and bolt them to the rear ....

    Engine assembly has finally begun - really! So far, so good - the rods needed some machine work that required some different sized bearings but all is well now. I will provide updates as they happen ....

    Gauges - I checked over the 35 Buick gauges and right off the bat, the temp gauge was a non-op. Oil pressure gauge worked fine, amp gauge showed continuity so I should be good there. Speedo looks real good - needle does not bounce, held 70 mph for a couple minutes, but I need a speedo cable. The gas gauge I could not check so I started checking around for outfits that repair gauges - facially the gauges do not need to be refirbushed so that is good. Finally decided on "the gauge guys" out of MN. They will repair and convert the water temp gauge to 12 volts, amp gauge is fine as is and will take 12 volts, oil pressure needs nothing, they will make up a 6' speedo cable for me, and the gas gauge will be converted to 12 volts. But, I may have a small problem ....

    The Buick gas gauge has a standard 30's GM 0 ohms when empty, 30 when full (or do I have that reversed?). So I need a right hand swing 12 volt sender that has that range for my 16 gallon Vintique gas tank. In my first cursory look around, I did not find one - I am going to continue looking but has anyone else run into this and knows of a sending unit source?

    I will keep y'all posted ....
     
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  7. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Got to work on the rear brakes today - cleaned up the drums I got at pic-n-pull as they were nearly new. Got everything painted and assembled them ...
    IMG_20170614_160016297_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg
    IMG_20170614_160003162.jpg
    IMG_20170614_160234519.jpg
    Now on to the F100 front brakes - ordered the shoes today and I have everything else including self adjusters .... should be fun!
     
  8. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    My new F100 shoes came in late yesterday so I started on them today.

    Backing plates, hubs, and grease shields were bought from fellow Hamber bloody knuckles. They are all nice and powder coated so it was nice starting off with all clean stuff. Got the passenger side almost assembled when I noticed the top stud did not have the depth to accommodate the extra of the self adjusting cable. With a little pressure the outer top spring could pop off .... not good ...

    First thing I tried was to grind down the big oval washer that holds the shoes in at the top stud. Got it close but still did not enough to make me feel comfortable. Removing everything but the shoes here is what I had ...
    IMG_20170616_150634835.jpg
    You can see that the area where the shoe ends ride, rises above the surface of the shoes. So, with no other tools save for a grinder, I ground down that ledge to almost meet the shoes ...
    IMG_20170616_152806981_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg
    Between shaving the top washer and grinding the ledge, I reassembled and felt good about the bite I had with the springs in place ...
    IMG_20170616_153845349.jpg
    To use the grease shield you need to modify or discard it - I decided to keep it. I cut away and rolled the lip in to retain grease that might collect and the passenger side front brakes are done ....
    IMG_20170616_155925638.jpg

    IMG_20170616_155933682.jpg
    Turning to the driver side, if you have ever played with 53-56 F100 front backing plates, the passenger has the manual adjustment slot in the back so you are all set. The driver side has the slot towards the front however, and I will have to cut a rear slot hole for the self adjusters. But, that's for tomorrow - for now I'm getting cleaned up and going to cruise night ....
     
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  9. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Right side is now done .... I drilled the second slot ...
    IMG_20170618_140224865.jpg
    Made the same modifications as I did the first side and all went pretty well. Boring, I know, but it's done ....
    IMG_20170618_151831197.jpg
    Next up is to weld in the steering support - finally ....
     
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  10. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 5,830

    loudbang
    Member

    Nothing "Stopping" you now LOL. :)
     
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  11. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Hey, day ain't over yet! Lol!o_O
     
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  12. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Pretty good progress today (for me that is). Welded in the column support today after checking clearances with the steering wheel to door handles, height, etc ....
    IMG_20170619_122923798.jpg
    IMG_20170619_123008349.jpg
    I then reinstalled the dash to scribe a line in the pod area of what's "viewable" so I know where to install the gauges ....
    IMG_20170619_122414541.jpg
    IMG_20170619_122346771.jpg
    IMG_20170619_122942500.jpg
    The 35 Buick gauges are pretty big with the speedo being 4" and the other two 3" in diameter. This puts the outer two gauges at the razor edge of the pod opening. Also these gauges have no overlap - you cut the hole and the gauge is inserted from the back ...
    IMG_20170619_184910308.jpg
    So cuts for the holes have to be perfect and clean. With my scribed line on the pod, I located center for all three gauges bringing the end gauges in about 1/4" each. You can faintly see the three black dots for each of the gauges ....
    IMG_20170619_184804098.jpg
    I am going to check with Johnrodz as he has a milling machine that may be able to make the clean cuts I need. If I remember my days in metalworking shop, you cut from the backside having wood on the front side so when the cut goes through it does not shred. Of course, I never worked with a milling machine ....

    I also started making the template to complete the removeable floor hump area. Not much to see now but I need to trim the hump via the blue line you see on the hump in this pic ....
    IMG_20170322_145838714.jpg
    In trying to make the template, I have decided to make an upper lip and a lower lip to attach the removeable piece to. Here's my template so far ...
    IMG_20170619_184600539.jpg
    IMG_20170619_184543165.jpg
    A good day in the garage for me - I even managed to complete several
    honey-dos ....
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2017 at 6:52 PM
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  13. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Well, I had about 1.5 hours today open to me since it's my anniversary and we have company, and I tried to make the best if it. I was able to do some additional work on the floor tunnel. I trimmed out the floor tunnel piece, not quite as far back as my "blue" line, giving myself some "ahhh crap I cut it too short" factor. I then ran some blue tape to simulate the angle between the upper and lower lips and started making a template for the lower lip ...
    IMG_20170621_165019540.jpg
    IMG_20170621_165105303.jpg
    This lip will be butt welded to the tunnel and the removeable cover plate will go behind or under it no air and/or water flows or is pushed into the interior. I then transferred this to steel.

    The upper lip should be the mirror image of the lower, just a bit longer. That worked out correctly with a few pieces tacked on for gaps ...
    IMG_20170621_170221073.jpg
    IMG_20170621_170241136.jpg
    This piece will be under the removeable plate which will screw into it from the top, again trying to keep water and air from entering the interior. Leaving myself some mistake room, I transferred this to my steel ...
    IMG_20170621_171043955.jpg
    Not the best pic I know but you get the idea. To emulate the "blue tape" angle between the upper and lower areas, I will make a metal piece that will get clamped in when welding the pieces into the floor. That will be tomorrow (I hope!) ..... I keep chipping away at it and feels good that this part of the floor is getting completed ....
     
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  14. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    I had another small block of time today to work on the project. I cut out the pieces I had transferred to steel. I made up a piece of bar from the scrap pile to keep the lips I will be welding on in sync, and TAC welded the hump to the floor ...
    IMG_20170622_135931940.jpg
    With the bar I made, I began tack welding the lower lip to the hump IMG_20170622_145107755.jpg

    IMG_20170622_150701971.jpg
    This was a tedious process, moving my bar about 1" at a time and doing a tack weld. I then filled with a few more tack welds and started on the upper lip ....
    IMG_20170622_154144220.jpg
    I this point I was unfortunately out of time ....
     
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  15. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 5,830

    loudbang
    Member

    Does this TACK make my lips look fat LOL :rolleyes:
     
  16. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
    Posts: 2,308

    TomT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    No - you look maaaavelous! Lol!
     
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