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Hot Rods Just another 34 5W

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Revived 265, Sep 27, 2015.

  1. Well, I've been asked to post my 5w, we've finally put the body back on the chassis, So many details yet to finish......yes, all steel and will be full fendered, unlike my 33 hiboy., ATTACH=full]3014670[/ATTACH]
     

    Attached Files:

    Rich B., Shamus, Johnboy34 and 2 others like this.
  2. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,274

    brady1929
    Member

  3. Looks great....Keep us posted..
     
  4. bostonhemi
    Joined: Dec 1, 2011
    Posts: 696

    bostonhemi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


  5. Getting ready for the interior guy.... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444300993.266927.jpg
     
  6. Progress has been so slow, so over the past few days ( won't say how many due to the laughter ) I've managed to install the door handles and connect to the bear claw latches.....I know this is really simple for a lot of the talent here on the H.A.M.B., but here's how I did this. As I acquired the coupe in an " all the hard stuff is done" state, the bear claws were installed in the doors, door frame welled up but little thought was given to the hook up. I have the original 34 door latches which would have probably operated the bear claws, but I just couldn't bear to cut up such a pristine set. So I first made an interior door bracket and handle pivot. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453064466.358502.jpg

    All of this is simply accomplished with a drill and files, later I did take my door handles to a friend that has a lathe. The bracket with the "hook" acts as the return to neutral position with a screw as the stop. Of course a return spring is also needed. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453064698.647942.jpg ....and here it is installed
     
  7. Next I installed a reproduction door handle,bound it much too long for the thickness of the door, I also wanted to have it a pivot point on the inside of the door. If you look at the above picture you can see where the outside door handle should come out of the inside in the half moon area. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453065118.929320.jpg I made a small bracket that would require to be welded or screwed in place. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453065207.707749.jpg ....it's now in place and spot welded...
     
  8. The next trick was to make a cam of some sort to operate the bear claw latch. This would require that the both door handles lift to open. Inside not an issue but the outside door handle had very limited space between the frame of the door and the square start of the door handle. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453065518.563319.jpg ...I went through a lot of ideas including the poss I lite of adding a bell crank so I could use a push down instead of a lift.....and finally decided on this small collar... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453065702.130922.jpg welded a couple of tabs to the collar, filed it out to match the square shaft of the door handle.
     
  9. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453065841.760814.jpg bent a couple of rods, added a pivot to the bear claw and started adjusting so that each would operate correctly. You might notice that I used "stop" on the rods at the bear claw connection. The reason is to allow each rid to move independent without operating the other door handle. The rods were filed flat and drilled to accept the screws in the stops for a better grip on the rods. Those stops were from a European type terminal strip that had the same diameter for the wire as the rods....they won't slip
     
  10. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453066701.401256.jpg i hope you can see the springs, I added these so the outside door handle retains a neutral position after its operated, I just couldn't find an easier way. One other thing that I didn't note was that on the collar, the flat square extension prevents over rotation which will either bend the levers on the bear claw coach or stretch the rod( guess how I know this!!!) ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1453066892.967603.jpg so in the end, I'm happy with the look.....I just wish I had better skills
     

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