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Projects Just A Big Model (T)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by BigJoeArt, Oct 4, 2022.

  1. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

  2. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    well slow progress is still progress, didn't get much done Sunday, and didn't have time to get dirty yesterday, but I had time to replace my engine mount biscuits with the new ones I got from Third Gen Auto, they are the bob drake ones, cause my speedway ones flattened and tried to squish over the mount. These are a much better quality product (for the same price :eek:)
    I also was gonna use an old vw tank I had, just for the neck and cap, but I put it in the turtledeck and it fits perfect!
    I am gonna modify the bottom of it, so it will have a drop down section on the drivers side. I'm hoping for at least 16 gallons but wouldn't mind more. (the stock vw is 12.5)
    I've also been making deals on like 5 or 6 different parts over the last couple days.
     
    Vic Walter, Lil'Alb, Sancho and 4 others like this.
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Wonder where you got that idea…… ;)

    looks good, the speedway engine mounts are notoriously bad. Seems that the mount that come with kits are ok but the ones that come solo are trash. Though by now maybe they are all trash.

    cory down at rjays also stocks the good ones for anyone looking
     
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  4. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    mostly that I had one I couldn't sell, but it fits much better than I expected, though I am gonna modify the bottom extensively for more capacity.


    good to know Rjays has them.
    the ones in @Austin kays coupe are from a kit and seemed fine.
     
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  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Wayne’s t also has a vw tank in it
     
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  6. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    Well last night I broke the streak and got dirty.

    I didn't take pictures of the first 2 hours of work, cause it was just me cutting and grinding stock spring perches off the axle.

    after that fun was out of the way, I tacked the perches onto the rear end
    (measured 5 times and I'm still 1/8 inch to far in on both of them.)
    and went over to bolt it in and mock it up.
    So, I finally cut the rear of the frame off.
    I blocked up the front of the pinion yoke so I can put on the hairpin brackets.
    its now set at 3 degrees down, and the trans is 2 degrees up.

    I was gonna tack on the hairpin brackets, but I need to grind the axle relief bigger.
    So instead of grinding more today, I decided to mock up my turtledeck.
    once I mount the rear hairpins, I'm going to start on the rear of the body, so I know exactly where the turtledeck will wind up.
     
  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    So the 2/3 angles should be close enough but with the tail of your drive train pointed up 2 deg your carb base is 5 deg off level. Plan on fucking with that or just let it ride and see what happens?

    I see people mill the carb base/s level to true level at ride height but I also know of plenty of cars with crazy rubber rake and there’s no way that carb is anywhere near level.

    five degrees isn’t probably enough to worry about, it’s not like your rock climbing with the thing just a detail I think about when setting stuff up and thought it could make for good
    Convo in the thread
     
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  8. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Oh, and looks good! Any plans for an under deck filler panel? With the spring and frame rail sitting further out than the sides you’ve got some
    Room to be creative for sure
     
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  9. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    I don't think it will really care, I and I'm not interested in messing with it, since it wont be on there forever. (HINT at future upgrades that @Tim already knows about...)

    I'm probably gonna run a roll pan type thing like @Anderson did on his T, but I think I'll make mine out of an old 36 ford hood I have laying around.
    I also have plans to build some filler panels from the spring perches up the side of the deck.
     
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  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    Like floating panels? That could be cool.

    my first thought was to put a big radius on the top side of the frame rails to finish it off but I don’t know that you e got the room with the spring mount to pull that off.

    Really looking forward to seeing how you fill in these gaps
     
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  11. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
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    Tonight was hairpin night,
    After mounting the driver side one in the wrong place on the axle 3 times and finally getting it where I wanted it, I stepped back and realized I don't like the extreme angle of the hairpins. so I'm gonna order up a new set of brackets that mount the hairpin lower on the axle. but for now it holds itself up for pictures!

    I also finally got the door loose from its bondo encrusted opening only to realize that the bottom of the door WAS bondo.
    not to mention that the "flat" center looks like the surface of the moon. it also has a layer of bondo almost 1/4 inch thick.

    I'm currently surveying options for the door, and working on bracing the body to start cutting it up.
     
  12. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Good call on different brackets. In my head the springs and hair pins set up like that would move in radically different arcs.

    should be ideal with them level. Looking good, wish you were closer I’d pop in all the time
    to see what’s going on.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2022
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  13. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    I'm not THAT far away. you've still never seen my shop.
     
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  14. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    ok so I got my steering arms from @terry k here in the classifieds, and I was interested in them cause they looked like I could use them.. differently.

    I threw them on the car, and as suspected, in the normal position they place the tie-rod right into the frame rail. (who designed this frame anyway?)
    so I implemented my usual mis-use of parts, and decided to use them on top! the arms fit perfect upside down on the spindles, and the tie-rod will miss everything important with inches to spare.
    so I mocked it up with a square rod with two washers on the end, so I could get a length measurement, and roll it outside.
    the next problem to solve was how to attach the steering hoop with the steering arm in the way.
    After me and my buddy Mike threw around ideas, ranging from easy to ridiculous, we fell into the easy solution.
    make it bolt on.
    so I made tabs from a drop of 5/16" I had in my scrap bin,
    drilled some holes, cut the threads off the arm leaving just an 1/8" or so to locate it in the tabs.
    then welded it to the tabs all around, and rosette welded it through the tabs.
    I've always loved shrouded steering arms, (like on the orange crate) and I figured this would be a perfect opportunity to add extra strength and style.
    out came the 1/8" plate..
    and then the grinder...
    I gotta say I'm pretty proud with how it turned out, its now attached with grade 8 bolts and will have castle nuts and cotter pins when im done.

    It places the steering arm in the perfect place to direct the drag link to the steering box, under the header.
    Its a tight fit but It's working out.
     
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  15. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    If I’ve never seen your shop how did I take this photo of it! 6BECD630-23A9-4025-80F9-147E7E7E4EEA.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2022
  16. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    today's progress began late after helping my dad replace a starter in his daily driver 68 c10 (how can a vehicle thats so big be so difficult and tight to replace a starter?)
    anyway, I started by scraping the insane amount of bondo off the outside of the door.
    the door above a friend dropped off so i could use some peices out of it to repair mine, it looks like its gonna be less work than I thought to straighten it out.
    while i was fiddling with that, a package came from speedway! tie rod and drag link! and new rearend brackets!
    so after modifing the brackets, and taking a trip to the hardware store for some grade 8 bolts ($ouch$) I was ready to start bolting things together.

    I think these photos show it was worth moving the hairpins down in the back.
    after I took a bunch of pictures outside, dad helped me mock up the headlights, and I determined shock placement. theres alot of stuff in a small place. The plan is to figure out the correct angle of the bottom shock mount and then weld them to the bottom of the hairpin batwings. that way they dont go wopperjawed on me.
    its working out well and ill build the front framerails to hold the bottom of the F1 mounts.
    stealing another one of @Anderson ideas, ill be using the shock mounts to hold the headlights.
    once I place shocks and headlights, the front end will be complete enough to move to the rear, and im excited about that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2022
    brEad, Vic Walter, Lil'Alb and 4 others like this.
  17. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,152

    Anderson
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    The shock/headlight bar thing is a cool trick but such a pain in the ass to assemble everything! Looking good man.
     
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  18. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
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    yeah, why do you think im doing it? I hate myself and try to make everything as difficult as possible.
     
  19. Love it!
     
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  20. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    Well not much happened yesterday, but I found some more parts, Including a door!
    but that has to come from ohio,
    So I went to my buddies house and picked up some C10 parts for the clutch. including a Z bar and the ball to put in the block. its a tight fit around the steering box, but I think it should work just like my last car.
    my header looks like it was made for this, with a kink right where the arm is.
    I also got a package in the mail, that had my new lid for my original coil box / turned glovebox

    hopefully this week has some good progress.
     
  21. 32fenderless
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 351

    32fenderless
    Member

    Glovebox! You building a street rod now? This is going to be a riot to drive.
     
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  22. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 608

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    This looks like pure creativity and fun. I dig it
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    that’s where he staches his back up hopup hat
     
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  24. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
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    Its the little things.
    my wife thought I was dumb sending an old guy a box, in a box, with postage paid both ways so he would sell me the gauge he had on craigslist. (it even had cash in the box) but the guys name was Joe and I felt like I could trust him. so off it went last week and after another email saying he got it and a picture of the receipt for the tracking number, yesterday I pulled out a near perfect 160mph speedometer. even after shipping I still have less that half of what the next cheapest one I saw was. (it wound up under $75)
    with that and my $28 FB marketplace tach, my dash is coming together.
    I still need a fuel gauge (I sold the good one I had years ago:confused: dumb mistake)
    and then the dash will be pretty much as I want it.
    after sitting in the car for awhile looking at the dash, and then putting up a couple closet rods in our entryway, I decided to get something more done on the car for the day. so I started back with the clutch setup/steering box mount, and tried to find the least ugly way to tie it into the rest of the car. this is what I came up with, it continues the curve of the body and the top of the clutch bracket will get clipped off.
    It always seems like all the tools wind up in a circle around me by the time I'm done. if I had been smart, I would have turned the car around so it was right by the bench.
     
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  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    Tweety pie vibes.

    that dash is my favorite part of the car
     
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  26. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    I didnt have much motivation last night, but I still got stuff done. cut a hole for my clutch linkage, (will be finished nicely later) and hooked up the clutch pedal.
    works like a charm and is mostly hidden/disguised by the big header out in front of it.
    I also did some hacking and beating on things with hammers.
    a little bit of round tube bracing, and I'm gonna roll it outside later today and make sure I like where we are headed before I start the other side. the patch panel I'm using is for a 26-7 roadster.
    I'm using them cause I have them so they are free. hopefully I can get it straightened out decent.
    I'm a chassis fab guy, not a metalshaper.
     
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  27. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,824

    J.Ukrop
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    Go man go!
     
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  28. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    Got the car out last night to check and make sure I liked how the bun patches were placed.
    Its still a little rough, but you get the idea, and I think I figured out how I'm gonna finish the rear of the body.
    My wife was outside with our daughter, so I convinced her to take a few pictures of me in it, since I've had people ask how I fit in it. (I'm 6 foot tall)
    I had to see how Bettie (my daughter) fit in there. she seemed to enjoy herself.
    then I pulled it back inside and moved it over so I could work on the passenger side.
    and I of course took more pictures..
    and once again I started stripping bondo off the body. I swear the guy who had this must have not had a welder, just a big can of bondo. there was a button head 10/24 screw covered in 1/4 inch of bondo in the rocker.
    I cut out the bottom of the rocker, but by that time Bettie was asleep and I wasn't looking to get in trouble for waking her up, so no beating on stuff with hammers.

    so I moved onto a quieter task, making a footrest for my heel while I drive.
    I also moved my column support up the column so its better supported. I have plenty of room for my feet, and the brake pedal has plenty of room to move.
    hopefully tonight I can get the passenger side tacked together.
     
  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    I’m curious what your gaining by having the floor at the bottom of the frame rails if your making foot rests at basically stock floor height?
     
  30. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 498

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    Storage space, and a place to drop my left foot down under the column.
    It makes WAY more difference on the passenger side.
    It also means I don't have to put a trans tunnel, which would greatly decrease the space.
    It really always seemed like a waste of space to me, to have the floor up high, when there's just empty space under the floor, space is at a premium in this thing, I'll take every bit I can.
     

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