I am looking to put a regular dist. cap on my A. Does anyone know what color (cloth covered) spark plug wire was available in the late 30's, early 40's?
Quite a bit of it back then was black rubber covered with black cloth and lacquered. But some of it also had colored tracers woven into the black. It was pretty common on V-8 Fords up to at least WWII. I do not know what was used on other brands during that period so maybe someone else will chime in.
You can buy yellow or orange from restoration supply. One of the photos in a Riley add had light colored wires. I'm using orange but I like the yellow better just too lazy to change.
thanks for the info Scott, I have a buddy who has a governor similar to the one on the farmall motor, I will ask about if your interested.
88dayrl88- The second combustion chamber pictured in your post #19 shows a head configuration that Indian tried in the late thirties. Only lasted in production a short time, because while it improved low end performance. it gave a very poor top end. They were called "trench heads". Herb Kephart
That doesn't surprise me Herb. During 1930's, besides developing the Vincent-HRD motor-cycle, Phil Irving published inumerable articles in Motorcycle & Automotive magazines and many of these were incorporated in later post-war editions of his books. Information, like the side-valve stuff was retained for the benefit of restorers & historic racers. He did mention that the "straight" port shape was often a consequence of V-Twin engines with horizontal inlet manifolds.
Yep, been around forever, don't think I've found a more passionate 'can do' family of 4 banger lovers ever.. here's a shot of the rail 2 weeks before it came out of 'storage' back in August 05 Note: it was stored on a big bench, under which was a complete 28 rpu....amongst many other things... from memory that statement of the dry concrete bed is correct. Cheers, Drewfus
Look at this 32 three window with Wood Lites and General wheels. I doubt its a B but I think you folks might find it interesting.
I'd like to thank Crazydaddyo for all his help with my questions about my engine and trans. combo, if I was better with the search function on here I would have seen that he's already answered those same questions several times yet he was very patient and returned my pm's on all my dumb questions. So Thanks man your what the HAMB is all about. Having said that I want to give the banger guys a heads up that I think I have a buyer for the car minus the engine and trans. set up. Seems to be very little interest in the engine which I think is the coolest part of the car. I'm not a big fan of the trans. which is a 200r auto. and after talking with several people I've decided that I don't want to go to all the trouble of changing it out to a T-5. So if I can find a buyer for the eng. & trans. I'll sell everything that way. There's now 1400 miles on the car since built it's only had synthetic oil in it. The build sheet is in the classified ads for the '29 roadster but I'll try to ad it here also even though it seems to want to load sideways. I want $8,500 for the complete set up ready to plug in.
I love that car doodlrodz I thought about buying it when it was in OK and wish i hadnt bought my truck i would be real serious about it now. it is a shame to see the motor come out of it. dean
Whats wrong with that transmission combo? I was thinking of running that same tranny behind my motor. I have no choice on the auto trans do to having to use a wheelchair. Is that that $1200 adapter from Bendtsen's?
I just don't like the automatic, yes it is the $1,200 conversion and 200r trans. I'd consider selling the trans. and adapter set up or trading for a complete T-5 setup.
any chance on the trans package only I have a B setup bell b trans with 39 gears light flywheel 9 in clutch fits right into a model A in place of the stock unit dont have the brackets for the clutch brake linkage but they are simple to make. only intrested because my wife is blond and cant drive a model A stick shift. I have 2 od them. already got a hot rod motor so dont need that. and what youre asking is a lot less than build prices this day and age
Sent ya a PM. Kenagain, and yes the price is way below what it would cost if you can't do the work yourself.
I've question about stock "A" rear ends I want to build a 35-37 period "A" banger powered car. I read about these guy with Mildly warmed over engines and Over drive or 4spd trans going down the highway at 55-60 mph some say even higher.So what I would like to know is how are rear ends holding up in these cars? Are there modification made to them to hold up? I was always told in the past, that stock Model A rears are worthless and to be only used in 100% stock As
you will be fine don't listen to the masses untill you have broken one first. yes a model a doesn't have a pinion support like the later rears but seriosly are you going to be doing hole shots with a big tire....and 60 hp put in the OD and cruise down the highway tk
Tub in da dirt is right- An idiot can destroy a stock A rear with a stock engine- but with a road car I wouldn't worry with anything under 100 HP--unless driven by an idiot Herb Kephart
Putting my '28 project together and have to make a decision on shocks. The car hasn't had shocks on in 33 years, I thought the ride was pretty good. Pros or cons with stock shocks vs. modern vs. none. Any insight appreciated.
Last night I adjusted the floats in my carbs up and gained a much better idle and more performance. They were set a little too low.
Picked up this Model B powered generator off of Craigslist. It looks like a counterweighted crank through the oil fill hole. It was complete with the Model B rad/shell/insert/trim, but I removed them and some other parts before I took any pics. Looks like they used a Model B trans cut just behind where the trans top would start. The clutch is still in there, but no release shaft. Had some questions on the natural gas/propane carb setup on it. The intake looks a little different to me with the vacuum port at front, the cable hold down boss at rear and the flat/squared top center. Is that how all B manifolds are and I just didn't notice? Anyone know anything about the carb/regulator and parts? Was it an available kit specifically for A/B engines, or adapted from something else? Carb and regulator are both Ensign brand.
What is the easies way to identify a B motor vs an A motor? B's have a fuel pump, and A's dont, I think that is all i know about the difference...... Would like to be able to spot one in case I come across a deal...... Thanks!!! James ALSO.... I Figured out why the coupe kept blowing exhaust manifold gaskets on the banger!!! I thought the manifold was warped, but when I lined the straight-edge up along the bottoms of the ports on the manfold, the one farthest back twards the firewall (where the exhaust connects) was 3/16" lower than all the rest!!! Musta got red fucking hot at some point in its life and drooped..... Problem fixed!!! Albeit, with an Otwell heater manifold, not the coolest looking thing, but hopefully it works!! She fired right up after a 4 week slumber!!! I'll be at the SINS Of STEEL Show tomorrow with it pending no catastrophic failures, just follow my oil slick...... Gotta pull the motor out and change the rope seal on the main.... But first I am going to put it on a friends lift, and pull the pan. From seeing the GOOP that once passed as oil when I drained it, I think that little tube in the rear main cap may be plugged. Lets hope. James
Getting better efficiency out of a car through good aerodynamics is certainly not a new idea; Bucky Fuller did it in the Dymaxion car and Chrysler did it with the Airflow. However before either of them, Harry Stevinson of Bashaw, Alberta took a junked model T Ford (top speed 45 MPH), "aeromodded" it and got it to go 70 MPH. The fuel economy also went from 25 miles per gallon to 38 mpg.
The Jalopy Journal
