Technical ***June 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Remember your Dad this month***

Link to previous month: May 2024 Banger Meet

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: [email protected]
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there may be more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

Present

Antique Nats was a pretty good show
Lots of good racing and participation
CDO, Steve Serr, Brierley all showed up.

J

 

Still looking for a throw out bearing for my A with a T-5

 

What model t5, S10, S10 4x4, Jeep, mustang, camaro? Whose adaptor, Speedway, Vintage metalworks, Vintage precision? Do you have the adaptor sleeve on the front bearing retainer? Most systems use the Ford flathead V8 clutch release bearing but I'd check with whoever built your adaptor.
Warren

 

The guy that built the adapter has long been dead. This was one if not the first S-10 kit that I purchased 20 years ago. I bought a brand new S-10 transmission from the local Chevy dealer and reinforced the stock wishbones.

 

Spent the day doing an oil change and cleaned the plugs in #45 getting ready for the Santa Clara 200 mile endurance run next weekend. Rumor is they have 30 cars registered this year. This will be the 53rd running of this event in the SF Bay Area.

 

Checking in. First day of winter here, and it's cold. Shed time coming.

 

David, even Ballarat isn't as cold as where I am!!!

Cradle Mountain in Tasmania.

So no hot rod doings for me

 

I went for a jaunt in the jalopy on Saturday to mark the start of Winter & terrorised the neighborhood with the kids, it was great fun! I also dropped onto a couple of brothers up the road, to check in on progress of their project's.
I still have much to do before I will be willing to travel too far, but we will get there.

 

No SoCal Father's Day weekend is complete without a visit to the LA Roadster show.

 

Checking in. I’ll be spending more time here at the Banger Meet as I get closer to starting on the jalopy’s engine.

 

Checking in with what I think is a common problem.

What needs to be done about this crack, attempt to weld it, braze it, bolt a stiffening patch across it, or pretend it's a tractor and slap some JB Weld all over it on both sides?

Or my favourite, drill a hole at the end of it then ignore it.

 

Put it back together and if the clutch doesn't judder, ignore it.
Meantime, keep buying more and more engines in the hope of finding a flywheel housing without a crack...

 

I may have revealed too much about my addiction there.

 

Reckon I'll be doing just that, if the clutch does judder a decent bracket from the hole below it to a pan bolt would most likely cure it.

 

I also watch the Vintage Ford Forum every day and threads about fuel valves, leaky carbs and electrical shut off switches are pretty common. Every time I see one of these threads and some of the casual replies it makes me think of a picture I saw on one of these sites of a Model A (coupe, I believe) fully engulfed in flame. Only the shape of the body was recognizable though the flames. I've searched a few times to find that picture again, unsuccessfully. Does anyone know where that picture is? It's terrifying. Perhaps it would help wake up some of those guys that usually don't bother to shut off their gravity feed fuel systems and maybe save a car or two.

 

I remember seeing a coupe(?) on fire on this site years ago. Ran into a tree with 2 fatalities(?). I don't know how to find it.

 

As I recall, this one was in a parking lot, or sitting by a curb. Also several years ago.

 

Some 10 or so years ago, Ron Moshers shop burned down
Started from a Model "A" with old wiring, complete loss.

I may be paranoid but I installed battery disconnects in my A's, and a Buddy of mine just lost a 1913 Pierce Arrow roadster to a building fire.

As the saying goes, safety gear dos nothing, until you need it.

J

 

So today I should have some time to dig into jalopy projects. I need to add gaskets at the universal clamshell and hope to get into the rear brakes and sort out my shock situation. Maybe spend some time sanding on the body.

I’m getting close to going through the engine and I’ve been thinking a lot about it. I’ve recently worked through banger projects with Matt and Zach off-forum, ranging from rewiring the ignition circuit to run a period fuel pump to investigating babbit in B blocks. So my mind has been on making my car move. Here’s what I’m working with…

• A stock Model A engine that seems to run strong but is currently a mystery inside. Fingers crossed!
  
• The infamous “Brass Blob” Winfield 6:1 Yellow Head.
  
• Rebuilt B distributor that @winduptoy kindly sold me.
  
• Coil… not sure yet… could use suggestions.
• Exhaust… my stock manifold is a pitted mess so I’ll likely buy a new reproduction from Snyder’s. Muffler and pipe are stock and new-ish.
  
• Intake/Carb Option 1 - Model B intake (thanks Zach @SUHRsc!) with a single Winfield size A updraft.
  
• Intake/Carb Option 2 - Miller dual updraft (thanks Matt @Hitchhiker!) intake with a pair of Winfield size A updrafts.

Lots to consider and lots of small bits and bobs to collect to put the banger together.

The major components under consideration…

 

I hog the cracks out V grooving chasing the crack....drill the end of the crack...
Then preheat the whole schebang using a propane weed burner .....not getting too carried away, Oxy-acetylene silver braze the groove up using Harris Stay-Silv flux and 15% silver. Flip and repeat on the back side.
I've had really good luck doing this over the years and done it for others.
Don't have a photo of one but here is a oil pump someone dropped and busted the drive end.. I repaired the cast the same way with silver

 

(Almost) all the previous Banger Meet Monthly Threads are pointed to by This but unfortunately there is no cross thread index but almost everything is still accessible (I believe).

 

I am looking to buy this cover, where can I find one?

 

I believe that was made by Retson the Racer

 

Hey guys. All my years on the Hamb, this is my first time posting to this thread. Sorry it's such a basic basic question, but here goes.

What's the connecting rod torque spec for a Model B? (Caps to rods.)

I've checked my books, the resource links posted at beginning of this thread, and Google. All I found was Model A specs. And those specs varied: some say 30-35, some say 40-45.

It's a babbit motor and I'm using 12-point ARP nuts, if that makes a difference.

Eager to button the thing up and get it into the car.

 

You can pull those nuts to 50 ft-lbs with no problem. Probably more, but no need to.

If they are fresh rods, they should be torqued to the same value they were torqued to when they were bored- in a perfect world!

 

Dan the Man
That’s what I use
J

 

Thanks guys! Good to know. That's higher than I expected.

The history of this engine is that it was rebuilt, run for a short time, and then stored for 15 years or so. I'm assuming the rods are original. It ran great when we tested it, but since I had to remove and cut the oil pan anyway, I decided to dismantle and check things while I was in there.

 

You could try torquing the rod to 40 swing it on the crank, then 45 then 50 & you will feel which one ia most free. This would give you an indication on tq when bored...

 

Kong Girdles all ruff machine work finished today

Going fast, not doing any more runs for awhile

J