Technical ***June 2022 Banger Meet Thread - June Already?***

Link to previous month: May 2022

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
September 18 Auburn, CA NorCal F.A.S.T. Fall Hill Climb
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: [email protected]
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there maybe more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

New Banger Block in the Works
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-banger-block-in-the-works.616056/

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

I’m in,
Nothing exciting just getting the old girl ready for a week of racing around a desert claypan (dry lakebed) Lake Perkolilli in September.
Just cleaned up the multi disc clutch pack and fit better steels ,built up the throw out fork shaft with the mig and machined back to standard ,made ,fit and reamed new bushes in the b/housing ,
Pulled the brake and clutch pedals, reamed their shaft bores out(good steel those), removed and welded up the worn areas on the shaft and turned it to suit the pedal bores, repaired the clutch adjuster bore, made a new threaded pivot rod to suit and fit new pins and woodruff keys and she’s all like new again.
Just doing what I think is needed to give me a trouble free week. More to do yet, we’ll get there.

 

Holy crap, it's 88 degrees. Car shows just about every weekend.

 

A year ago this month, my '29 CCPU crapped out at the Speedster Reunion in Lincoln. Finally got around to replacing the fuel system with a new tank and plumbing. Put a 10 gallon spun aluminum tank in the bed with new pump, lines and filter. Since it now runs great, can only figure that there was a lot of crap in the stock gas tank.

 

Checking in.
My aluminum finned and standard timing covers are almost to the foundry.
Hoping to get this mag running on my banger pretty soon. Just gotta get new wire and plugs

 

Done in May...

• Decision on seating position, seat ordered (Glide)
• 6:1 head painted, collected parts for install + tuneup
• Horn fixed and obnoxious again
• Created template for custom windshield
• Decision on upgraded transmission + conversion approach (Thanks HAMB)

Goals for June...

• Get fitment solved for Kelseys vs. rear cast iron drums + order tires
• Make progress on stanchion design/rework
• Find a T170 anywhere I can
• Locate source(s) of engine leak
• Prep for 6:1 head install + tuneup
• Decide on seatbelt mount points + order seatbelts

...and drive as much as possible.

 

We're experiencing a cold snap and early start to the snow season here in the southern states of Australia - I occasionally drive my coupe to work - it didn't like the 40 degree F (4 Celsius) weather - but it managed to get me there and back.

Next job on it is to pull the motor, replace the front seal, balancer and clutch bearing.

 

I forget who was modifying the SBC Fluidamper to fit, anyone know if they are still available...?

 

Im here as well

 

@Crazydaddyo I did, I bought a stock one from a local supplier.
I don't do too many freeway jaunts, and there are no cooling issues, so I believe a replacement should suffice.

 

Checking in... Drove to Tomball a few weeks ago for Deuce Days and got alot of attention and love for the banger and as always pissed off some Easter egg painted car guys.

Just trying to get a few things dialed in here and there needing to swap a AC shock for a CW shock my AC is in good working condition. Need the CW to be the same.

Deuce days...

 

I'm not sure I like shocks on a Model A. I live a few miles out of town and my street is gravel that sometimes has a few washboard areas. My dad's 29 Tudor never had shocks during the 60 years that I knew it and it would just float over the washboard areas with barely a wiggle in the seat of your pants. Better than any modern car I've ever ridden in over that same washboard.

When my dad got away from us I sold his Tudor to one of his friends that really wanted it and got another 29 Tudor in better condition for myself. It has shocks all around and the washboard road makes the darned thing dance all over and try to toss you out of your seat. I'm half tempted to pull the links off those shocks and try it without.

That's one more reason I need to get around to installing the lap belts I bought for it a couple years ago, haha.

 

The original V-raditor, hood, cowl, single seat and gas tank for the 1913 T racer where stolen by scrapers 15 or 20 years ago. Have been looking for replacements and was lucky to find this older replica of a Livingston V- radiator for half the price new replias sell for today.

I'm happy that friend Want37HD liked what was going on with this car and was kind enough to sell this original 1910 -'13 Ford Factory racing car seat to use on it. It survived and was in The Henry Ford Museum parts collection until it was sold at a parts sale 15 to 20 years ago.





This racing steering box was installed in the racer in the mid-1920s. The aluminum bottom housing is assembled using three castings welded together. Can anyone ID the maker? It's not a Franklin box.

 

Check'n in from Buttonwillow Raceway. We had to quit Sunday before the event ended; as I was running low on fuel (the race fuel pumps were close). And the tires were wearing fast. I have to save on tires for the rest of the season. These are my last! New tires have to be ordered near a year in advance. And they have become very expensive! What we go through in our old age! LOL!

 

Not sure exactly what it came out of; but I had a Franklin steering box out of a 20's passenger car much like yours. I kept it in my race car. Dumb me! It broke on the track TWICE! I gave the broken contraption to a friend on the proviso that he use it for the good (crack checked) parts. I put a new Schroeder Box in my race car! Just saying.

 

need ideas on stuck rear drum . possible caught on key way . ideas appreciated ... steve

 

Simply jaw dropping..........

 

Old Dawg, Thanks for the heads up, have all ready checked it out and this box is not from a Franklin although many where prewar. I'll magnaflux all of it along with of the box and the key engine and trans parts, rear axle, and shafts. If they pass that test the critical pieces of vintage race cars that pass thru the shop that are going to see race track use are cryogenically treated by Nitro Freeze Cryogenic Solutions in Worcester, MA.

 

The engine that is in my coupe has a very well made damper that does not seam to be an adaptation. I don't know the maker or where it came from. It came on the engine when I got it.

 

CDO, isn't that the Murray Horn from NZ?

 

That seat looks a lot nicer in your yard than mine. Once you put everything together this will be the view most Vintage competitors will see of the car.

 

Still looking for leads and photos of this Two Man car I sold to Jim Etter in the late 1970's. This shot is from 1952 going up Mt Equinox in Vermont. All I had from it was the frame, cowl, and tail.

 

Checking in. Really enjoying the downdraft conversion with a Stromberg 97 however since I have an Edmunds air cleaner with an exposed filter with a screen cover, time to put the half hood back on since we are in the rainy season. Not worried about driving in the rain but don’t want to take a chance drowning my air cleaner.

 

Can you unbolt the backing plate from the housing to get the whole assembly out - then get it in the press ? Kinda like pressing a bearing off an axle .

 

I think alot has to be on what kind of surfaces your driving on, around here I have alot of concrete that is not super smooth but I need the control in the intersections as it unloads the suspension alot driving thru them. But I do tend to agree, I think if you set your shocks softer you would get the best of both worlds.

 

the backing plate bolts (nuts are inside) thank you for the thought ......... steve

 

In your travels keep your eyes open for one of these Model T Ford Green Super Power-Plus heads. Or the Power-Plus passenger car version below. I have the rest of the engine that has survived in good condition and need one or both of these heads for it. Thanks!

 

I have no idea. I would like to know if more were available.

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