The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jun 1, 2021.
try posting another picture on this thread.
I don’t think he posted a pic on his last thread, hard to understand what’s going on without a pic.
I can't see the picture.
Anyway, I'm checking in. Entered my first car show. OK, as far as it goes, but I think one time of that will be enough for me. Happy June.
I'm here-slowly muddling thru body work. But I did pick up a nice old Evans intake!
Today I managed to pull the front axle and dropped the oil pan. After I unscrewed the oil pump I found out that the pump was modified.
In the bore of the engine are two holes. One to the outside where's the hold srew is located. The other one is towards to the crank. From there the oil is routed to the middle main and probably to the other bearings.
So far so good - but I'm not sure if the pump is modified correctly for the G28. There's a hole drilled on the shaft towards the crank. The diameter is roughly 8mm (5/16"). So the oil is probably getting to the feeding hole in block. But the original pump has this recess and didn't allow the oil to flow to the top. Could that be a problem if this "ring" is missing? Besides that the original pump got the drills to the sides.
Banger Experts - what do you think?
Enclosed some more pictures.
The load spring is probably the yellow one.
Many greetings from Germany
I haven't driven a car to a car show in 15+ years. I don't miss it. Standing or sitting around melting on the hot pavement, getting sun burned, Loud "oldies" music blaring away that you can't even talk over, Trophy hounds in full force, quite a few rude and irresponsible people, and the majority of them could care less about our old Fliver's and Bangers.
If anything, I like the social gatherings where you show up, plenty of parking and leave when you want, whether that be 10 minutes or 6 hours.
I wish there were more HAMB type people into bangers in my area....but then they would just want to start a club, don't get me started on that.
Went to put on the thomas head today. Didn't realize it was 2.5", (0.25" taller) than a stock head (2.25"). Water outlet studs were fine.
Anyway I just replaced most of the studs with the stock length model a banger studs. I'm assuming I need 0.25" longer studs. Also, my head was quite difficult to put on. I fully tightened my studs but didnt go gorilla tight; should I have left them slightly loose? Or are they just slightly bent as I heard those repop model A studs can be? Would ARP studs in a 0.25" longer length alleviate this problem?
Also, I planned to run a mallory dist, but it wont reach the dist shaft with the taller head. Is there a taller shaft available that will acommadate the 2.5" tall Thomas head?
Anyone recommend a good place to get spark plugs for a thomas, as well as distrubutor wires for the older mallory brown/black cap YA11A dist?
Thanks for your time!
It looks like the builder of this G28 did a good job, the oil feed by drilled hole leaves the housing stronger than machining a groove around it.
I do have to ask, what made you suspicious there was a problem?
John, thanks for your reply.
No issues so far with this engine (knock on wood). The engine only ran by the builder so far. By accident I came across a picture of a high pressure oil pump with a groove similar to the original one. The owner told me that this groove is a must to guarantee acceptable lubrication.
Because of some rumors about issues with engines from this builder in the past, I was concerned. Especially because I found some minor careless mistakes on my own engine.
BTW: You where right. The original Lifter are "hollow". They got a drillers hole from bottom to the side. Guess the adjustable lifters now have not. Was searching the WWW up and down. But couldn't find hollow adjustables.
Almost done being a seamstress...Casual six..Bendix issues? Take yours to the local tractor parts cat,have him match it up to one of these.
Turns out, that won't solve the problem. From what I can tell, I have a V8 flywheel installed, and that puts the flywheel ring gear further away from the starter. A standard Bendix can't go back far enough to engage the flywheel ring gear.
There may be an article about using a V8 flywheel on a Model A engine in the Jan 2016 issue of the Secrets of Speed Society (SOSS) magazine. Anyone have that issue to look up?
I am a little late to the party this month. Checking in from Cheyoming.
When you fit the V8 flywheel, you reverse the bendix on the shaft .
Checking in got the steering gearbox and wheel dialed in on the roadster and the high performance head tuned up on the coupe
Correct, but the issue is the lack of support for the shaft.
Especially if you are running any kind of compression...
All questions on how to modify the starter drive to use a V8 flywheel on a Model A engine is covered in a great article in the Secrets of Speed Society (SOSS) publication:
V8 Flywheel & Starter Conversion - R. MacHale V25.3 22-25 Jan 2016
There's more to it than just turning the Bendix drive around.
The article is copywrite protected, so I can't post a copy of it here. Reprints are available directly from the publisher: https://www.secretsofspeed.com/
Checking in. Waiting for my T5 adapters from Dave at Vintage Metalworks to get done. Getting both the T5 to AA bell housing and S10 4x4 T5 to torque tube adapters.
These are what I use for anodes see attached link engine.html
How long would one of these take to corrode in a cooling system?
Can a peice of alloy do the same job?
A chunk of zinc is all you need.. I used one like the boat ones above, the water inlet was drilled and tapped to accept it. Pretty amazing, I used 50/50 antifreeze and the white goo that was stuck to it after a year was impressive, so much so I went back to cast iron..
The LONG anode that is sold everywhere…. for water heater preservation… is an economic way to purchase/use for auto/ alum use.
Cut to desired length/size needed. One rod makes enough anode sections to last years.
Great info,,,,Thanks for the replies. I just found a source for these down here.
Got some track time at the Jalopy Showdown in PA with my OHV banger sprint car. Fun times but hard keeping the speeds down. She just wanted to go fast. Hope to do a few more events over the summer and then get back on the sand in the fall for The Race of Gentlemen.
Found this photo of the Showdown somewhere. I was driving so didn't take many pictures.
Duel Bangers don't get any better than that...
Great looking car, love the lines of it.
What speeds do they let you run?
They had more modern sprint cars and modifieds and let them rum em hard. I was with a few slower cars so I was just trying to not run into the back of them or be too aggressive with passing. It was just for fun so we all took it easy.
The sprint car was built in the late 30s and raced in New England thru the late 40s. Originally had a 4 port Riley OHV but it was separated from the car before I got it. Have a full write up on the car and photos from various stages.
I couldn't find 4 port riley head so got an original Miller-Cragar head and had Al Clarke from Go Devil Garage in NY build the engine. Won the banger class at 2019 Race of Gentlemen and hope to defend my title this fall. Such a fun car to drive.
Your pictures are great, thanks much for sharing.
That Riley looked more correct … was it destroyed…. Just curious why not retained ! More power too I’d bet.
They are still around…if this pic comes thru… would make your car run HARD !!
At some point in the ownership change, someone pulled the engine and sold the car without it. The car went from New England to Virginia and then Texas before I bought it and brought to NJ.
I was looking for 4port for a few months and couldn't find one. I was able to find original Miller Schofield head at Hershey so had the engine built around that. If you are interested in selling that Riley 4 port, let me know. I'm already too deep into my engine but would be neat to get a riley back in it some day.
. I’ll PM you if dont mind ?
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