The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jun 1, 2020.
For a trans that's almost 100 years old it would have to be real cheap. What is he hiding?
If it's like mine then chipped teeth?
No arguments from me. Just looks pretty busy for my tastes. I generally like a simple appearance.
looks like it has been burnt
The cat said his shop burned down,so its highly possible it was in the fire.Im going to open it up or no sale,need to check it out,the gears are the money shot.I was just grousing about sellers who dont let you open shit up...
Generally he has a good reason he doesn't want you to look inside.
Checking in...my buddy Cody and his 31 pickup moved 2 1/2 miles down the road from me so I gotta sidekick now for my banger powered cruises around town...
exactly..it has to be a 26t in good condition or no dice.. he has a bunch of stuff,either Ill get a sandwich or a steak dinner but I wont go away hungry.
VARA's "British Extravaganza" couple of weeks ago went off without "A Hitch"! Just got word that none of the participants got "The Virus". I had no competition so I didn't push it for any lap records! About six weeks from now on July 18th there are plans to have the F.A.S.T. Time Trials at the Santa Margarita Ranch. The Ranch owner tells me that he is hoping the restrictions will be raised before that time.
The LZ cluster gear had passed somthing through high gear a couple of teeth were galled so I passed.Did get a pair of 59AB's,a 3 deuce intake with 97's for the 59AB and an 8BA edmunds intake with 2 94's..
A little late to the party this month. I was on vacation last week and was slaving away in the wife’s upholstery shop. I did however take Saturday and Sunday to put my coupe back together. Excited about the twin 81s and geardrive intake and lake header. I still need to get air cleaners set up and adjust idle air a bit. Pretty happy with how it runs.
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Hi here are some pictures I took when removing centre oil feed tube and then tapping 1/8"NPT
Existing oil tube was .381 diameter and tap drill for 1/8 NPT is .332 " so .050" over size I originally thought I could have tap aligned with existing oil feed tube but tap O.D. is too large as it contacted the block so I decided to tap the existing os a slight angle so tap body would clear and fitting would also fit without grinding clearance into the block .
to remove tube I cut it in half put a vice grip on the cut half and drove it out with a hammer
So tapped using 1/4" drive using 1/4" square socket fit okay and tapped hole is good looks like enough threads to make tight and hold pressure but will use epoxy thread lock on thread when finally assemble bad news is centre bearing is shot so will remove and make an align boring fixture and bore a new centre bearing
Wonder if it it would be easier leaving the tube in place and plumbing in the valve gallery like Yapp does,I realize its tight working to feed the front bearing around #1 tappet stand but you might end up with more flow,by the time you're done sleeving the ID of the sleeve might be less than the existing tube ID.Id take Yapps method a bit further,and counter bore the tube hole and match ID of tubing and tube as close as I could,brazing steel tube to ford grey iron is easy work.The higher the flow the faster the bearing is fed on startup.
This how i plumbed oil to the center bearing.I wanted the feed line to go directly into the relief area on the main insert.Im not running full pressure as i do not intend to run at high rmps with this engine yet.I did rebuild the and modify the pump for more volume/pressure.I used from info from Jim Brierlys and other experts to come up with a plan.Still need to figure out how to plumb my external pressure relief valve to the filter system.
damn nice car ................ steve
Thank you! The car will be together for 4 years come September!! I went back and looked at my build thread for it and I cant believe how busy my summer was while thrashing on the car to get it to the Colorado Hill Climb. Now Nearly 4 Years later I think there is nothing else I would like to do to it with an exception of putting my Super Winfield head on it.
4Bangerbob- please don't use those style compression fittings inside an engine. Vibration will eventually crack the tubing around the ferrule. Not quite as bad if you use steel line, but I would not take the chanve Either use Swagelok fittings or flare nuts/flared tube that support the tubing better.
Thanks for the refresher, used the flared nuts on my T. Recall it being a huge PITA to get everything tucked in. Appreciate why so many people just drill out the main caps, but then you are injecting the oil at the point of the highest pressure.
The other issue on feeding oil into the cap is reducing bearing surface area. BUT, you can do this by properly grooving the bearing.
The problem with drilling the cap is the hydrodynamic principle,the oil clearance needed (.001 per 1 inch of shaft) doesn't exist in the feed area, basically the hole is drilled at the highest load point on the bearing..John's bearing surface reference..other than that its a good idea,my engine is drilled like bingers,with a full flow oil filter it develops some pressure on the center feed line..
thanks for the comments. I was considering JNielson's suggestion to braze in the steel lines on to the brass fitting or flare the steel line. Single or double flare? which is has been used successfully?
Hey Binger, how does the coupe do in the snow?
HAHA I don't know. The official snow tally for Tuesday in Laramie 50 miles west was 8"! I do remember my dad telling me how good the coupe was for donuts when he was a kid.
they work well , groove tires
Met up with Steve (Vibration free) on Friday. The Stirling dampers have rollers and no ball bearings inside as Winduptoy posted. Took an A block for his idea of a flat 8. We'll see what he's up to soon. Covid etc. meant my flywheel was not ready yet but hopefully not too long now.
Will a V8 9” clutch cover bolt up to a 1932 B flywheel ? We are building a new B motor and I know the original B clutch was getting near its end. New motor will have a lot more power than the stock original as we are going to fit an OHV conversion and some other period tricks . The last thing we want is a slipping clutch .
The B flywheel is basically like the A, just a little lighter. It will have to be modified with machine work, to accept a V8 clutch.
** my lines are flares .............. 8 yrs now with no problem
The B flywheel is 10lbs lighter it can be identified by two steps on the outside instead of three..
Winduptoy is correct it has to be machined to accept the v8 clutch
Might want to mention that this is NOT machined for the 9" clutch.
I am hearing that the Ranger diagram clutch is better? than the 9"
This will be going in my coupe next.
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