The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 31, 2018.
Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
According to Jim Brierly's cam list Model A springs will yield 62 lbs. of seat pressure at an installed height of 2-1/8 inches. Hold one of your valves on the seat with the spring retainer installed on the valve stem and measure from the roof of the valve chamber or the bottom side of the flange on flanged valve guides to determine the installed height with no spacers. Then figure the spacer height needed to have the installed spring compressed to 2-1/8 inches.
Thanks, I must have missed that in his book
Help! Having problems finding a top water hose, 33-36 V8 water pump and stock B ratiator, slight increase in diameter and slight bend. What do you guys use? Thanks!
Hi, I fitted a V8 pump to my '30 4 banger and used a Gates 26503, 44mm and 51mm each end by 254mm long .This is a ribbed hose and fitted perfect. Hope this helps. Ron
who made your timing cover ? ......... thanks
Howdy all! Had a quick questions regarding bangers. First off, I have this F3 head, it's similiar to the Model B head. 4.6:1 and requires a b pump. What could I get for it? Also, I have no clue when it comes to creating distributors for bangers. I had a friend somehow shave down an old mag from a tractor and it worked on his banger, would this Bosch 0231150003JFU4 work if I milled down the sides and changed the gear?
Anyone able to help with this maybe? It's a 1930 coupe, I put in an updated version of points from nu-Rex. With the key on or off I have power to the driver side of the coil, it doesn't matter if the points are open or closed either.
Check for grounds or shorts. That alligator clip to the radiator rod is not a good ground should be to the frame or at least to a head bolt.
Also I have been dumb enough to not wire the condenser properly, replaced five of then before I double checked and found out that I had it connected to the positive not the negative side. My 32 distributor also had a short between the points arm and the upper plate.
Is the wiring original? With an original set up the ignition switch was wired between the coil and the points. not on the power supply to the coil. hope this helps. also check for shorts like above.
Throw Back Hot Rod Designs or @fourspd2quad here on the HAMB made the timing gear cover.
@rockman29 supplied the front cover. I don't think he has any more.
I think I found my issue, my lower distributor plate was broken and contacting the distributor housing.
It isn't on the flyer...But a word to the wise: If you want to come to the event, enjoy the BBQ Friday at the SLO Elks Club and avoid a lot of wasted time; REGISTER EARLY (before you come)!
Santa Margarita Time Trials
"Be there, or Be Square!"
I'm going to have to put it on my list...
Got to find that victim to sell the business to....
I was able to drive my coupe today for the first time around the block. It seems to be running out of fuel though as if the pump isn't pumping enough. I'm running the airtex e8902 pump and a Holley regulator set to 3.5 and also tried it at 4lbs. After accelerating the regulator gauge drops to 0 and the car dies. My starter went out as well after pushing the car home lol it doesn't engage just spins.
For those who were helping me figure out my short, it ended up being the ignition wire that runs to the distributor. They had spliced it twice and just twisted the wires together.
I’m looking at your picture and can’t figure out what’s going on with the fuel lines...looks like your fuel line is coming straight out of the glass fuel bowl, straight into the carb. If so, and you are low on fuel, you may just not have enough gravity feed pressure to keep it running on acceleration.
Unless your running an other than stock fuel tank.
The line goes under the car to the pump, then up through the regulator and out to the bowl like normal.
have you taken your undertank fuel shutoff valve off...your fuel screen may be fouled or plugged.
I have, I have a good flow out of the tank. The pump pumps up to 3.5/4psi to the carb until I apply a load to the engine the pump seems like it doesn't keep up and it drops to 0 psi.
Man...stumped...I have nearly an identicle arrangement and only run 2 psi, with no issues. The only real difference I can see is I don’t use the glass fuel bowl. Either way, there most likely has a fuel restriction somewhere...check inside the rubber fuel hoses where the push onto any metal fuel line that has been sawed or chopped off to make sure you have no flappers inside the rubber hose.
I wonder if the fuel wasn't boiling in the rubber lines maybe. At the moment the header dumps in front of the pump. (About 10 inches away.) everything was kind of warm though.
do you have a good fuel pressure test gauge ? I tried 4 holley regulators that were not working correctly . I have a very good pressure gauge . I ended up buying a cheap chrome dial regulator from auto zone & set it with my gauge . has worked well for several years now . mine is a daily driver .
I do not but I can get one and check it out. Thanks.
just some of my experiences
that sounds like fuel pump maybe bad, ive never had a pump go bad that the car wouldn't run sittin still you could rev them up and sound good put them in gear and go for a ride and they would hardly pull there self
I planned to bypass the regulator tonight after work and see what pressure I get. Should I stick with the 2-5lb pump or go with the 5-8lb and regulate it down? The carb is a Holley 94.
Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
stay with low pressure unless you need more . I would put pressure gauge directly on your pump , then go from there . mr gasket makes a nice pump that has low pressure .
Separate names with a comma.