*** June 2013 BANGER MEET ***

What is a good distributor to run? I've seen the FS one but its electronic. I would prefer to keep points. I know that Mallory makes a dual point but I here their quality has gone down hill in the past few years.
Thanks, Todd



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I have an FS , electronic , self advance dist. times like a chevy . the distributor turns to advance or retard ............. best money I have spent since my weber !

 

Shop for a B distributor, FS makes an advance kit for it. Don't shop points or condensor or point cams. Buy parts from Renner's. Older Mallory's come up on ebay from time to time as do the fat Mallory coils and condensors.

 

Long time ago, ask Dan Price, he manufactured later Thomas heads and manifolds. I think he changed the patterns a little, the original Thomas Manifold had a bigger radius, I think. I didn't know there was a "full HAMB compliance" just run watcha got, if they point and laugh, ignore them although I might snicker bout a Lyin head that guy in Tx got a lot a power outta them. Just go out an beat them in a race

 

I'm on a roll here answering all a these questions just laying out here, If you don't want to go too fast and you have good babbit you might be okay. What is gonna happen is the center main is going to come loose if you insist on running faster than 3,000 RPM's. An if you run with too much advance you will loosen up the rods cause they will start to hammer. Bout' the only thing you can do is route the oil thru a filter and keep the radiator full, throw yer head back n drive keep'n it under 55 if ya can. Them good ol boys, I happened to know a couple, planned ahead an opened up the oil holes in the rod caps and built the scoops up with braze. Chevy 6's with dip and squirt ran up to 7 grand in South America in the late 40's early 50's. I read that in Hot Rod Magazine back then in an article about where Juan Fangio got his start road racing in 40 fords and 39 Chevy's.

 

Don't know if this is a repeat or not but I ran across this brake conversion.
http://www.lainefamily.com/ModelAFiles/ModelABrakeUpgrade.htm
Enjoy!

 

I did a few that way, but I mounted the backing plate 15 deg the opposite way to make running lines easier
Tk


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So I think I am going to go with a Winfield head. Looks like they might be the best bang for the buck. looks like they come in 6.4:1, 6.7:1, 8.5:1. I'm thinking one of the first two. Is there really that big of a difference between the two? Will either be okay with stock pistons?

I will have my new engine Friday its rebuilt, but been sitting. I plan on firing it up on the stock parts and swapping out the upgrades over a couple days after I break it in.

So far I have a Thomas reproduction dual intake. A vintage Mallory distributor and a Reds B header.

The engine is a counterbalanced A with lightened flywheel. It's babbitt still. I'd like to install bigger valves and pressurized oiling, but will probably wait till the next engine. I do have a machinist friend that will help me with that, but I haven't found a good explanation of the process to give him.
I think basically I will run it till it breaks while searching for and building a B.

 

I've been reading http://www.billsbangers.com/

Is this reliable information?

 

Regarding rear backing plates: If not running stock shocks the backing plates can be mounted upright by just notching them for the spring perch and filling the relieved part. One or two beer cans or the axle shims supplied by everybody and its all good. I did this in 1956 and again last year. I'm surprised no one mentions it anymore.

 

I've been reading http://www.billsbangers.com/

See if you can find a copy of Restorer #5 and check Urb Stairs article on pressurizing the A,. S O S S has had some articles on this subject. S O S S has a good index on their archives. Most of the info is in the first 3 issues. This info is out there for free except you may have to buy the Restorer.

I use converted flat head V8 long shaft oil pumps that have a built in pressure relief valve, Jim Brierley just did an article that gave the how to on converting the V8 pump in the FAST magazine. Some modify the A pump and buy inexpensive relief valves from McMaster Carr or Graingers that dump into the valve chamber or plumb them to dump on timing gear. Basic rule on pressure is 10 lbs for every 1,000 RPM's, (3,000 RPM's = 30 lbs)

Jim Brierley has a book out on the building and modifying these engines, I haven't seen it yet but I'm sure it will become the "bible" on this subject. [email protected]

 

[QUOTE__________________
. You know, I read the Barn every morning and learn a lot from those guys.[/QUOTE]

I do that too Bill, sometimes I learn things I didnt want to know....I bet you got a kick out of all the guys that said an "A" wasnt safe to operate at 60mph.

 

Just got in from a swap meet picked up a couple of old tacometers.
3000 rpm smiths diesel I think and a generic. I was thinking of grafting the generic into to smiths. Then recalibrating which I think could be done buy adjusting the trim pot. Has any one ever fitted a diesel taco to a banger? It has a nice rev range, I wonder if the smiths could be made to work?
Brendan

 

Got the smiths open. Does the pin out ring bell to anyone?
Brendan

 

They are polarity sensitive , but can be changed.

http://www.lotus-cortina.com/electric/convert.htm

From memory the red and white and the black wire are just positive and negative for the light bulb. The other wire is a signal wire, it replaces the wire from the coil to the distributor..... the tach reads pulses by induction as it loops through the block.
Can't remember how but most of them can be setup for 4-6-8 cylinders either internally or with a resistor.
You can calibrate them with a downloaded program and a laptop
http://www.accutach.com/Documents/SmithsCalibratorUserManualR2-2.pdf

 

Sorry all the tachs I have are mechanical so I know very little about the electric ones

 

Can any one give me some dimensions so I can make my own header plate? I know they are cheap to buy but I have material and time and thought if I'm going to have a go at a custom set up, I might as well make everything. Thanks.

 

You mean like this?? You will have to click on it to see anything... I dunno how to make it bigger... These images are a bit of a nosebleed for me.

I make NO PROMISES as to the accuracy....

 

That's perfect, thanks.

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One comment, The factory hole location may not be that exact. I take a measurement over studs or threaded pins in mounting holes in block to locate holes. Sometimes they are off.

 

Thanks for the link, lots of information. The testing method for coil polarity is interesting using a lead pencil. I think I will give it a try.
See below

Brendan

Testing Ignition Coil Wiring Reversal.


You REALLY need to test this. With the ignition off, engine off, pull a spark plug wire loose from a spark plug. Place it loosely back in place.

Now start the engine. Hold a no.2 lead pencil carefully in one hand. With the other hand, pull the loosened spark plug wire slowly away from the plug. You shoud see a good size spark jumping from the wire to the plug. Now... CAREFULLY place the sharpened lead point of the pencil into the path of the spark... you should see a "flare" of particles flying from the pencil lead TOWARDS the spark plug. If you see a "flare" of particles flying from the pencil lead TOWARDS the wire... you have the coil hooked up backwards. Remove the pencil lead from the spark path. Replace the wire. Shut the engine off, and re-reverse the coil low-tension wires and re-test. Get it right!

Why does this matter? If you got this wrong, you will be losing about 50% of your voltage at the spark plugs! Weak spark! Essentially, if the ignition low tension coil wiring is reversed, the coil will... "pull" spark, rather than... "push" the spark. Electrons prefer to leave a high-temperature (high energy) surface (like the center electrode of the spark plug) rather than a low-temperature (low energy) surface (like the arm of the spark plug). More voltage (more spark) is available if the electrons move in the correct direction, in the direction they prefer, from the high-temperature center electrode of the spark plug to the (relatively) low-temperature arm of the spark plug. Test it! Get it right!

 

Gave it a try video link below
Brendan

http://youtu.be/9eAHeKDelF0

 

As alway you are right Bill.
I have 3 blocks and they are all a little different. Gaskets are not even all the same.


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July meet here :

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813613

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