June 2011 Banger Meet, Any Questions?

Well, do they need to be turned?

Seems to me that they recommended against turning the steel drums. They had a rolled finish or something like that. Most drums have a .062 ? top limit for turning, federal law or some thing. Steel drums get hot and expand more than cast and your brakes fade away quicker after hard stops. Also, they can cool out of round after parking while hot. I have seen guys trying to turn on an engine lathe and most had a chatter problem. The drum seemed to vibrate at a particular resonance. The cure tried was belts and or springs tight on the OD. Is this helpful or does it sound like BS. I am not a brake turning expert just trying to pass along some of my experiences gained while on the way to becoming a feeble old shit!

 

They do ring real good when taped. Three of the drums are in good round shape with little resisting. The other has a spot (LR) but still easy to turn by hand. If I turn them I'm only going to do the finish about .005 max. This should get them about round and if I still have a spot one the one I'm fine with that.
Also the shoes on the back look new and the fronts about 1/2 life. Are the shoes the same for the front and the back?
In time I would like to do a full brake over haul with cast drums and new parts.

 

Check the adjustment on the rears to be on the safe side. The weight of the car is transferred to the front when stopping. If the braking surface is good I wouldn't worry about .005 out of round. If it ain't broke don't fix it!

 

Turns out the drums have been turned before so I didn't bother to turn them. But I started taking the shoes off being I'd rather have more shoe on the front. Also one drum has had a stud welded in the back and has totally wrapped the drum. Brake over haul is looking better and better.

 

My rays of hope. After posting about my day from hell the other day I get home tonite and find a mystery package at my front gate it was from Pat Gary BHT8BALL on here inside was a tee shirt from this years Antique nationals this means one hell of a lot to me its not that I know Pat that well we exchange emails jokes and advice [he has good jokes but maybe HAMB not wife friendly so I wont put them here]and sure I brought a great front plate off him built by him after noticing them on some pic he posted here on the banger site PMed him and it was here on the other side of the world many thanks Pat not only that I go inside and there is a email from johnny a Swedish rodder with some great projects also a customer of Pats. He is offering support as well thanks . It use to be that I worked on my banger projects here in New Zealand alone and was considered a nutter which I probably am as there aint many other banger nutters here. This goes to show we are a community supporting each other and shareing ideas thanks guys and lets cut fellow nutters a bit of slack when a new one asks a silly question it takes practise to be nutters like us but boy you sure brightened my day Rusty

 

Glad to hear that there has been a ray of sunshine in your life.

Take care, we're all thinking of you

 

Rusty, that is so great to read. Made me smile at the end of a crap day here in Auckland. Its a great network the Hamb and Banger network. Greg

 

Quick stupid question. My belt's squealing. How tight should it be? It has a stock water pump and GM alternator if that matters.

 

The alternator probably has a real small pulley <2"? The wide, stock A belt wont transmit much power around a pulley like that. Tighten the heck out of it, but expect short life from your water pump. Is the belt shiny on the V surfaces? If so a new belt will stop the squeal for a while. If your battery is low, it might take 1-2 HP to turn the alternator. and the drive configuration isn't up to that.

Herb

 

If this is true, Speedway sells a pulley to put the wide belt on your alternator and you can back off the belt tension.

 

If you are going to screw with your brakes get or buy a brake centering tool. Then consider installing a set of Teds Floaters.

 

This guy has made a few tools and has blueprints for them on his website.
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/index.en.html

Including the centering tools

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps_bremsbacken_zentrieren_h.en.html


http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps_bremsbacken_zentrieren_v.en.html

 

Link added to the reference list at the beginning of each month.

Thanks for sharing!!!

.

 

This guy has done some great work, lots of good tips. Thanks for sharing.

 

Well after getting a new clutch installed. (i blew the last one up doing donuts in my field and raceing around my track). I took it on a test drive back around the track and did this. I guess i had more wrong then i thought.

 

Looks like you still had oil in it.
I think you just had a little more fun then the old girl could handle.
Lets see some pics of you out on the track

 

Loving your driveway...!

 

Looks like your "modification" will make it easier to drain the 600 W. oil now.

Looks like another endorsement for a late model trans conversion.


.

 

Neat looking pit area! Is the RPU the push truck? Looks like a 8N portable engine hoist just like one I have behind the coupe, Handy looking forge in the foreground. Did you hurt your hand when you made that last shift? Maybe you should just sit in the car in the driveway and practice shifting before you go racing next time. I gotta a spare A trans out side some wheres. Drive on up and I'll give it to you.

 

Yep 8n with the loader. The rpu has the broken trans. I acctuelly blew it up in neutral. It was clunking in first then no clunking in second. I reved it a little in neutral and it went. There was a pile of teeth on the ground. i should have known better. i got a spare trans im cleaning up now. but thanks.

 

This is a video right after this car was taken off the trailer. Hadnt ran since 1969. So it ran like crap, its running much better now. The rpu is the faster one. It has a crower ground crank,ansen intake, 81 carb, headers.

edit: i guess my work computer wont let me upload video

 

I also have a spare 39 trans with "commercial" gears but I ain't gonna give that one away.

 

How's the second gear cluster look?? I'm in need of one. Which one did you toast??


Jim S.

 

Not sure yet, im a little bummed about it so it will be a few weeks before i tear it out.

 

Hey guys. I just got a couple of Model A bangers and a B. Has anyone done a thread on a complete diassembly and rebuild of a B motor here?...with pics and specs etc? I wanna play with this B.

inquirin' minds...

 

Do it!!!!!

Ron

 

Yea I would also like to know more about the B. Now that I found out I have a B head and carb on my A block.

 

regards b and other motors. 28 AR motor 5 bearing cam multi plate clutch 29 motor clutch plate early motors mounted solid to chassis 30 motor good standard a motor 32 b motor non counter weighted crank 33b motor counterweights 34 b letter c cast on head counterweights g28 motor better oiling shells class header motor similar to g28 watch for light flange on crankshaft....please add to this taking into consideration this is in regard to 'hot' motors lets build up an indication as to what is the best motor to start with

 

Met "Walls" at the Lansdale carshow last night. Awsome guy, with an awsome Vicky! Too bad he didn't stay too long..........Ya gotta come down and hang out Bob! I'd like to get a better look at that Vicky.....we can bounce some stuff off each other. Take care of that car man!!

Jim S.

 

Nice meeting you. I'll stop down this summer when I get some free time. I definitely need some pointers on this car.
Anyway, I need to hear your car run. Looks like a mover