The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Jun 1, 2011.
Thanks for the ride... DaddyO
Looks like you had a lot of fun.
What RPM did you leave the line?
Thanks for posting, I've been kicking myself for two days for not running! Next year for sure.
Looks like a good find Walls. I picked up a Vicky a few weeks ago and I'm having fun driving it around. They are really great cars. Hope the wood subrails in yours is ok!
Well we went to the Antique Nationals, son made 1 run 78.89 16.5 engine now has noise so shut it down. It is on the back burner so won't know for a while. Probably the crank!
I don't know, my tach is not working correctly. I think it reads half speed. If it is, then it's turning @ 2,000 - 2,200 rpm. And @ 3,800 rpm at the finish line.
Good to see you out there Sunday Bill. Sorry to here you had problems. Your car looked good as usual.
Doesn't that mean it's set up for an eight cylinder engine? Or maybe that's a two cylinder? Anyway, it seems to me many tachometers I've seen have a switch on the back for different cylinder configurations.
The tach is an old Sun tach with the external control box that was modernized and I haven't found the switch that changes the number of cylinders it reads. I just installed it Saturday and haven't had time to look at it.
Last year 82 Mph computed to 3640 RPM with 3.94's in the rear end, this year 78.9 at 3400 RPM's with 3.78's in the rear end. Or this year #1 change gears last year #2 gear set. What was your speed and ET this year? Post tire size and gears to double check
17.551 @ 74 mph was my best time. 30" tall rear tires. 4.11 rear gear. 4th gear (1-1) at the stripe.
are you still running the the B cam? And are you running spacers under your springs
ok went from this
b with stipe cam and aluminum front cover
same as above but with a snyder head/zepher/81's/b fuel pump
i used a "best" copper gasket with copper coat and a leakless h2o pump
i still have to plumb the carbs and link the two together.....oh and i painted the fan
yep painting the fan does it every time
look-in good...do you know what Stipes cam you have?
You didn't paint the fan whilst it was running. Wished I'd thought of that...!
330 i do believe
Looks good. Let us know how you like the changes.
When I had the engine out a few weeks ago, I swapped out the cam for one of Jim's 1R cams. I have been running 1/4" spacers under stock springs. I also replaced the 2 Stromberg 81's for two Stromberg 97's.
I have the same cam for my B .
I am thinking of putting it in the A just for fun my B won't be done til end of summer at the best.
Did you get to drive it on the street yet.
Was it night and day power wise. I have a cam with just little more lift then a B now
i went 70 mph with it a few days ago. that was using the tom tom as a speedo, and i still had more pedal to go. (my nuts kind of tucked back inside at that speed though)
it still has a zenith and stock a muffler/manifold/intake/dizzy
it does have a lightened flywheel and v8 clutch/p plate
it will smoke the shit out of my dads stock coupe
My Pop painted the fan years ago when he zinged his hand, I had to do it the same when I did the car........
Pie; Your "Mill" looks great !
What head is that??
Looks like a Lion head to me.
I reckon you've got more to come from that engine, Daddyo.
I ran a Brierley-1R, but with a Winfield 6-1 head and a single 97, plus larger intake valves, isky springs with spacers from Taylor, and my own porting of the inlet tracts, and ran a best of 17.3 @ 77mph. That was through 4.11 gears and a Volvo four-speed trans, with the T-touring body that Monkeybiker is currently attaching fenders to.
ok so it runs now
but how do i set up the carbs
if i retard the timing it idles low(still a little fast)
i advance the timing it revs to like a grand
never messed with strombergs before (only holleys)...let alone 2
i have a uni set (sinc)...
also the idle screws are completely closed
Set your timing at 0 to @ 8 deg. advanced at idle. (@ 600-700 rpm)
If your idle adjusting screws can't be backed off enough to get the idle speed where you want it, you will have to bend the bracket that the screw is in forward at the idle screw. I've done this with a light tap with a hammer and pin punch. Yes I know, hammers and carbs are bad, so take it easy.
Make sure your float levels are set @ 1/2" from the top of the float bowl edge.
Dry float setting is the top of the float is level when closed.
Next, disconnect the linkage that connects the two carbs.
Adjust the idle mixture screws. With a two Stromberg set up like this start by screwing in the screws until they stop and back them out @ 3/4 of a turn.
Start the engine.
As it is idling, adjust each screw IN until you notice the idle getting rough. then back it OUT until it soothes back out. Do this slow so that the engine has a chance to recover. Do each screw a couple of times until you get a feel that the idle is running smooth.
Now with the Unisink, adjust the idle screws until they both read the same flow. Start with the one that flows the most and back it down half the difference of the two readings. Then adjust the other up to match the reading of the first one. Keep doing this untill the carbs flow the same AND the idle is where you want it.
Now that they are flowing the same, connect the two carbs. Now take a flow reading with the Unisink and make sure they are reading the same. If not, then adjust the linkage that connects the two carbs so that they read the same as they did before you attached the linkage.
Now you are set. At this point, I like to back off one of the idle screws and check the flow again. If there is a change, then the linkage will have to be adjusted again. I do this because I like to run only one idle screw so that when I adjust the idle, I only need to adjust one screw.
I hope this helps.
And make sure you've no intake leak!!
printed it out
leaving early form, work to go give it hell...i have a race tomorrow
hunnert car heads up here i come
Questions about the FS ignitions:
Are you able to retain the manual spark advance? One of them looks like maybe you could, one probably not and one isnt really clear, from the pics on their website.
Do you find you miss being able to manually control the spark, or are you just happy with the straight centrifugal advance?
Any real good reason to switch over to the later style cap/wires?
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