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Projects Jumping in the deep end

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trevorsworth, Aug 4, 2020.

  1. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Gas flows great all the way down to the carburetor, but there seems to be a flow problem somewhere between the jet and the inlet.

    The car will run strong for ~30 seconds at a time before it starts to stumble. While stumbling, if I touch the throttle it dies instantly, otherwise it will splutter for about 10 seconds before dying on its own. If I try to restart it immediately, it will pop-pop-pop like it wants to start but it can't quite manage. If I give it some time, it will run for another 30 seconds or so again.

    This tells me it's sending out more fuel than it's taking in, but like I said it flows great down to the carb. Maybe the ball valve thing isn't opening fully to let fuel in? Might be a fordbarn question but I still haven’t made an account over there. Any thoughts? I will have to tear it down again regardless but I’m not sure what to look for.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2021
  2. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [​IMG]

    Floor acquired. Not gonna have time to mess with it much this week. A lot of guys weld these, but I'm probably just going to drill it and run bolts through the rivet holes.

    I've been putting off cleaning the car until I could safely roll it outside since I don't want all this Houston sediment all over my garage. So I can finally do that soon.
     
    brEad likes this.
  3. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,053

    chopped
    Member

    Take some advice from an old guy? Clean up your shop before you hurt yourself. Love the build.
     
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  4. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm really bad about that. Once I've been in the shop for a couple hours I just put stuff down and where it lands is where it lives until I need it again. Cleanup takes as long as the job I was tackling. I gotta break that habit.
     
  5. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 79

    milosmith
    Member

    Try opening the the GAV (Gas adjusting valve) 1/4 - 1/2 turn. If that doesn't help, check the fuel strainer at the back of the carb for blockage. If the strainer is clean, there is likely sediment in the carb secondary circuit that is restricting flow from the main bowl. Below is a link to a really good theory of operation for these carbs:

    http://modelabasics.com/carb basics 2.htm
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2021
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  6. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My carburetor is pretty rotten. The moving parts are all crusty/hesitant and it has tons of build up inside. I cleaned it up as much as I could, but the mating surfaces on the two halves are warped and the GAV is wonky, I think someone forced it and damaged it. I decided to order a professionally rebuilt carburetor to guarantee I'm giving my engine the best chance I can give it and I will rebuild this one later for practice. The new carburetor is real pretty like, can't wait to get it.

    The brakes are finally hooked up again. I took the time to straighten the rods, clean up the threads and replace all the anti rattle springs. I started doing that a while back, but I ran into a hitch with one of the rods and it got sidelined while I worked on other stuff. They will of course need adjustment but they function and the pedal even returns. My first-drive checklist is down to just four things.

    I'm looking at ordering a wood kit for the car. The car has a steel roof, do I need the top ribs? Not sure if they are structural, or just there to support the fabric top. The doors are square and open/close fine, and the body is squared up nicely.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021
    J.Ukrop likes this.
  7. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    AF275164-D7D9-4165-A3D4-E9A72504FFB8.jpeg Ok Trev, I’ve spent a few days repeatedly sneaking in boughts of reading your thread. That should tell you how much draw it has on us. I have tons of comments but will limit them hopefully to short bursts like so many helpful others have done.
    Emotionally you remind me of a even younger hot rod version of myself and even more excited or “got the itch”. So entertaining and suspenseful to follow.
    I cannot for the life of me figure out how you’ve made it so far so fast with all your trips to harbor freight and haven’t got yourself into the 4.5” grinder club yet. Something like this above. I’d be nowhere without my pile of these guys. Now I don’t want to be the one to tell you to run them without their guard and I’ve had my share of close calls and even accidents. I tend to try to be scared of it so I remember what it’s capable of doing to ya. With cut off wheels of a decent quality I can do it seems like everything sometimes on these traditional builds.
    Brush or roller painting is exactly what you need for this type of project. It can look awesome and yes period as hell.
    Eye protection? Don’t F around with that getting your eyeball drilled sucks. I’ve checked this box thrice now and the last one really kicked my ass.
    Do t let the wood rot get you down you will be able to tackle that soon enough as well. Look where you started. You are now kinda quite into the AV8 and Banger world already! So cool!
    Have you thought of a piece of old radiator hose in the steering column drop? Oh and don’t forget your fellow Flathead savor was going to help you with the floor. Possibly the easiest part of the entire project.
    Go man Go!!!
     
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  8. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey, thanks! I can't wait to see your next moves on Hubba Hubba. You gotta get back on it!

    I do have a HF grinder and it is a handy dandy tool but I've hardly used it since getting my air tools except to clean up welds. When it comes to sanding, I just find the angle awkward to work with and I prefer to mount the wheels on my air drill, and the die grinder is a lot smaller and easier to maneuver in tight spaces. But I've seen some of the stuff you've made up for Hubba Hubba with your grinder and I'm definitely slacking.

    I didn't post about it because it seemed about the least noteworthy thing ever but I did end up getting the floor in. I just used the rivet holes in the subframe as a guide to drill matching holes in the floor pan, then bolted it down. The only real work was to straighten an area of the subframe where a substantial section of the lip was bowed up by about 3/4". To get it straight I carefully heated the bent part of the lip to cherry and massaged it flat with a ball peen hammer.

    [​IMG]

    I could add more screws, particularly on the sides, but not sure if it is necessary. The floor pan fits flat in the subframe and it's rigid enough that I can't lift it from below, so it shouldn't rattle.

    I threw a post up on Fordbarn hoping someone knows some trick for replacing the top wood without removing the top. Frankly I would do just about anything to avoid having to remove the 300 screws holding the tin roof down and then replace them.

    The radiator hose in the column drop is a good idea. I keep forgetting to order the rubber bushing. I'll probably just do that instead.

    Today I went to bolt the seat down and found that the seat rails interfere with the body to frame bolt heads, so I will have to make some spacers up out of half inch plywood. No biggie but I don't have any on hand so I guess I'll do that tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
    Jrs50 likes this.
  9. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 6,786

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Just discovered your build thread, and thoroughly enjoying it! I've been playing with cars for over 55 years, but it' still fun to see youthful enthusiasm and determination get so much done quickly!
     
    trevorsworth likes this.
  10. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Honestly, I have a major case of imposter syndrome when it comes to the car. I still feel like I have no clue what I'm doing, and like what I have done isn't even worth documenting. I appreciate the kind words to remind me that I am making progress, and I guess really I am. I'm glad yall are enjoying following along, it's a big confidence booster. Between the supportive thoughts, advice, and in person help, all from the HAMB, I can safely say I'd be nowhere without yall. This is really a great place.

    I kind of figured out a paint scheme recently but I want to find someone to sketch it for me so I can visualize it because it's definitely different. I think it will be really cool. More on that later.
     
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  11. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Damn in that long winded speech I forgot to say continue to crank out that beaut the way you’ve been headed. Have a blast for awhile, gain some more expertise like you’re doin, keep collecting more bits and the next thing you’ll be getting offers for it from people wanting a taste of what it’s like to have the same shit eating grin on their face.
    Then get that pickup tin you want and finish up that V8 roller using the lessons you’ve learned for a cooler beast. So don’t waste your time selling the 40 rear.
     
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  12. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm off today! I got to work on getting the seat mounted. There are a couple small hitches here. One, the body to frame bolts are in the way of the seat rails. Two, passenger side legs are shorter than the driver side to accommodate the Suburban's floor design. The answer to both of these problems is spacers.

    [​IMG]

    On the driver side, I used some thin "project boards" from Lowes. I relieved them to clear the body to frame bolt heads, then positioned them to line up with the holes I wanted to use on the seat rails. The subframe slopes slightly in the front, leading to a gap. It's ugly but when it comes time to properly do up the interior, I will make it look better if I'm still using this seat. I would still like to get an original coupe seat eventually.

    On the passenger side, I found that the old body blocks were the perfect thickness. In the picture I haven't done anything to them yet but I trimmed them down and smoothed them out with my sander.

    [​IMG]

    To level the seat, I had to make fine adjustments to the driver side spacer blocks with my sander. Here's one.

    [​IMG]

    As the old adage goes, to the man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail. I quickly got distracted and began attacking the body with the palm sander. That was the initial reason I purchased this tool and I hadn't got around to trying it yet.

    [​IMG]

    Under a ridiculous amount of bondo I found these holes. I wonder if they're related to the car's race history? The bondo was applied over the electric blue paint from its racing days. I don't know much about race cars so maybe someone has an idea. Could they have something to do with a roll cage? Anyway, more holes to fill!

    I'm taking a lunch break for now but will be back at the seating situation in a bit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2021
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  13. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,233

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Could have been a antenna mount
     
  14. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Looks like two different caliber coincidental bullet holes to me or punched holes not drilled?
     
  15. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,762

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I have two very similar bullet holes in both of my roadster's doors.
     
  16. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    .45 up top, .357 magnum below or is that .38? Small lol.
     
  17. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,233

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They are definitely punched image.jpg
     
  18. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not a bullet hole, unless it took a stray musket ball! They are punched but too wide to be anything smaller than .50. A .44mag cartridge drops straight through the hole with plenty of wiggle room.

    C55DD309-079C-4E1D-92EA-41BA78F7C5F3.jpeg

    Antenna mount or perhaps a grab handle would make sense. If those are bullet holes, it would be a heck of a bullet.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2021
  19. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,233

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Grab handle for a rumble seat
     
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  20. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,233

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Maybe a 28 gauge slug?
     
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  22. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Alright! That was a lot of work, but it's done.

    [​IMG]

    I knew the two bolts in the rear were going to go through the body blocks. They ended up being too close to the frame to get a nut on, so I had to weld nuts on the inside of the subframe crossmember and relieve the body blocks to make room for the nuts to sit inside them. Someone more experienced than me probably would have just reworked the feet on the seat to move the bolt holes to a more convenient position, but I'm not there yet - I think this is probably the best way I can solve this problem with what I've got. It might be a little hokey but it's not going anywhere... on to the next challenge. The carburetor will be here tomorrow.

    For now... time for a beer.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2021
  23. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,188

    RMONTY
    Member

    Trev I think I have a piece of plywood that I marked out to replace the one in a Model A I worked on for a friend some time back. When you get ready to start figuring out the floors let me know and I will come by and check it out, and bring the one floorboard that I have. You are so close to driving that banger!
     
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  24. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,579

    RodStRace
    Member

    Great progress. I probably would have drilled another hole in the seat base rather than modify the car, but it's done and can be fixed later if need be. Those seat bases are HARD steel, too.
    Do you have enough room to slide in under the wheel? Looks tight. Have you made Vroom noises and checked operation of the controls yet?

    As for the holes, I agree that it looks like a grab handle for rumble seat, but who cares? They will get fixed when you get to that point on the body.
     
  25. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey, good to hear from you! The new carburetor will be here today - that’s the last major obstacle. I’m so psyched! I’ll let you know first thing when it’s time to tackle the floors.

    I would have had to cut and reweld the feet to change the position enough to not have to modify anything beyond drilling bolt holes. I figured I can always patch the holes I drilled, it’s just a couple more holes to fill. I did have to drill a new hole in the seat base and it was indeed very hard steel.

    I have made lots of vroom vroom noises and spent some time rowing through the gears and trying the clutch out. I’m not a big guy, so I like this position pretty well. It is a little tight getting in - I might have preferred if it was an inch or two lower but it’s not a big deal, there’s room enough. It’s nice to have a solid seat now.
     
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  26. Jack1937fordpu
    Joined: Jun 10, 2014
    Posts: 13

    Jack1937fordpu

    Does anyone on here know how to contact a member named Mark T. He had an item posted for sell on here 3 days ago and I started a conversation to buy it from him. He has never responded to me and I do not know how to contact him or if the item is already sold. Please help. Thanks Jack Satterwhite
     
  27. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,053

    chopped
    Member

  28. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Got busy after work, even though I just wanted to take a nap.

    The first order of business was to sort out the ignition wiring. I'm still not ready to finalize the wiring by any means, so it remains temporary, but it's at least secured now. Someone had already drilled a hole for a switch or maybe a light in the dash rail. I resent whoever did that and I will patch it later, but for now it gave me a convenient place to mount the ignition switch. So that's taken care of now.

    I think in the long run I want to relocate the battery to the trunk, and I will of course need a fuse box. But one thing at a time. After that, I moved on to the rest of the body blocks.

    The body blocks under the cowl were a challenge. There were some kind of welded in reinforcements under the subframe at the cowl - diagonal plates stick welded in. I opted to relieve the blocks to clear them and everything fits snug. While I was doing that, the new carburetor came in the mail.

    [​IMG]

    Got the new carburetor installed, along with a nice shiny chrome choke rod I got from Brian, the guy who I helped out with his AV8. It's straighter than the old one. Observations:
    • Runs a LOT better. With the old carburetor, no amount of adjustment could keep the engine from occasionally chugging and stumbling. This one, after adjusting, runs really nice. The GAV and choke operate so smoothly that I'm now 100% confident the old carburetor was definitely fucked up somehow.
    • Still only runs in short bursts from the gas tank. If I unhook the line from the carburetor, the fuel flow is very strong - but hesitant. There is a good 2 or 3 seconds before fuel actually starts flowing when I remove the line. I think there's some kind of suction preventing gas from flowing, but it doesn't work even with the gas cap off the tank.
    • Unlike the old carburetor, it DOES run from the lawnmower gas tank, and boy does it run.
    • The new choke rod, being straight, rattles. The old one was slightly bent so it was always under tension and didn't rattle. Now I have to make a bushing for it. :rolleyes:
    So my dreams of driving the car tomorrow are probably snuffed but I'm right up against that goal. I just need to sort out the onboard fuel.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2021
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  29. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 660

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I pulled the tank and blew it out again. There's no debris or discoloration in the water coming from the tank, so I'm confident it's clean. I guess I'm going to dry it out, fill it with vinegar and let it soak. The fuel valve also flows good, no issues there that I can see.
     
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  30. It's very common to find a hole in the dash rail... most often to mount a light switch to replace a troublesome light switch at the bottom of the steering box (quite often the steering gear lower cover/gasket leaked and raised hell with the switch, not one of Henry's better ideas, that he hung onto too long).
    While your tank is taking a vinegar bath, google a cutaway picture of a Model A tank. You'll see the baffles that make it difficult to clean, and have a better idea about how to flush/clean them.
    Good luck!
     
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