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Projects Jumping in the deep end

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trevorsworth, Aug 4, 2020.

  1. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,432

    rusty valley
    Member

    for the speedo gear, i would lube it up good, then use a piece of pipe and try to drive it in further just to break it loose. they have some free play when assembled. so, knock it loose, then start going the other way to get it off. get creative...slide hammer pulling on the tube? drive hardwood wedges in between the tube and diff? even drive screwdrivers in until it seems like you may be hurting the gasket surface. if no slide hammer, a chain and a piece of heavy wall pipe works too... violence is sometimes required with stubborn old fords. for the pins, i used to fight with an air hammer, or a regular hammer and punch, and usually wreck stuff. now in my old age have a press, and a lathe to make the correct thing to press on. sometimes they come rite out, sometimes the need lots of heat on the end of the axle. really, i would not try to hard before just taking it to a shop with a press. now, the puller. the new thing from vintage precision is certainly a good thing, never heard a bad note about them, but pricey, as all good tools are. now me being a cheap ass, i made this puller about 30 years ago with a torch and welder and it has not failed me, nor any of the many times i have loaned it out yet. the u shaped cut is very tight, i have to drive it on with a hammer, its 3/8 thick, same as the groove in the hub, used a long fine thread nut from a U bolt for a rear axle, and a fine thread bolt from one of my other big pullers. every time i show this it gets poo pooed, but it has worked for decades for me! IMG_1172.JPG
     
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  2. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There's some play where the tube meets the diff and I can move it forward and backward just a bit. If I slide hammer the tube itself will the speedo gear want to come out with it? I wasn't really sure about doing that.

    Thought about making my own puller the same way but without a cutting torch for now I'd probably go through the price of the tool just in cutting/abrasive wheels to get the shape right.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,432

    rusty valley
    Member

    when you pull the tube, the gear, and thrust washer, and bearing will all come out the front with the tube. probably will want to replace that bearing anyway, so dont worry about wrecking it. there is an outer bearing race in the front too to replace also, and a good surface on the shaft for the bearing would be nice too.
     
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  4. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,960

    48fordnut
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    FF39, I was about to say the same thing about the rust buster. I have it in several small spray bottles.
     
  5. rjgideon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 540

    rjgideon
    Member

    MAPP Gas torches get things pretty hot and might be worth getting until you get yourself an oxy/acetylene torch.

    I have a 20ton press and a port-a-torch if you need some help with that stuff. To get my old perch pins out, I had to heat and beat with a drift and a 2lb ball peen hammer which was the biggest hammer I had at the time.
     
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  6. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I was going at it yesterday with my MAPP torch and a 5lb sledge and it wouldn’t budge. Might be that I’m too chicken to heat the axle to glowing but I had it pretty toasty.
     
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  7. rjgideon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 540

    rjgideon
    Member

    After a heat cycle, just keep spraying it with some penetrating lubricant and it should help release eventually. It did take me a while of banging on it and I nearly broke a vise using a cheater bar and some sockets to try and press it out. That was before I bought the actual press I have now.
     
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  8. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,674

    treb11
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  9. Rivets are Kool items for a lot of jobs. Some rivets are as large as 2" in dia. To install them often involves heat. Heat travels a lot. Heat a large aria and Beat on the shank end and you have a nice Rivet. Done right and you can make a Rivet out of a King Pin and a Perch bolt. Use caution my friend.
     
  10. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
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    That was a long drive! I got to drive through Dallas, with no traffic, at sunset on the way back though. It's actually real pretty when you have time to take in the surroundings a little.

    [​IMG]

    So here's the prize. The kingpin and spring perch holes are pretty much completely perfect. Clean, straight and shiny with no pitting.

    [​IMG]

    This axle will clean up real nice. I also got my first jackstands today... lol.
     
  11. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,432

    rusty valley
    Member

    thats a nice axle. not the deep pitted shit we use up here in the swamp. pay attention to piston broke, beat the thing to death and it expands and you will never get it out. get a press my friend
     
  12. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
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    Yep. No more kingpin hammering here. Going to take it to a shop to have it done. Eventually I will have my own press, but I would like to get this done so I can put the frame together.
     
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  13. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,522

    RodStRace
    Member

    Call around and get pricing on
    1. Removing spindles
    2. Fitting and reaming new bushings in the A axle.
    3. Bringing in all your stuff and having them hand you a done front axle.

    The old days would have you do it all in your own shed, but these parts aren't sitting behind every farm house now. No shame having it done right if you don't have the tools to do it on hand. Besides, that way you know who still works on this stuff and what it costs. If it's too much, you can try to 'save' that much.
    If it's reasonable, pay the man with a smile and say there may be more work headed his way (spread the word and ask when you get stuck again).
     
  14. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,463

    King ford
    Member
    from 08302

    Marty, that is one SWEET F8!!.... one of the few things as cool as HAMB friendly hotrods is HAMB era trucks....
     
  15. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I now have a battery for the engine stand as opposed to robbing the one from my Golf every time I want to start the engine and I guess that means I should wire up the generator so it can recharge.

    Step one: figure out if the generator even works?

    I suppose the generator was intended for a 6 volt system. Does it know the difference?
     
  16. The stock Gen on a Flathead will Not work with a 12-V Batt.
     
  17. I should have said "Not Charge" a 12-V Batt.
     
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  18. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    Just another opinion here.

    The regulator sets the voltage. Put a 12 volt regulator on and see what happens.

    I have two generators on 12 volts. Both started as 6 volt Ford generators. One, I just put on a 12 volt regulator. The other I switched the stator to a 12 volt along with a 12 volt regulator.

    As I understand it, by changing the stator you will gain amps.
     
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  19. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [​IMG]

    Little by little...
     
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  20. The question asked was;
    The simple answer is;
    Helping with this kind of answer;
    Get's new Guys sorting there way into the Hobby in trouble and serves no purpose unless you can give specifics like part numbers and/or a wiring diagram with clear explanations.
    J'st Wandering, how about picking up where you left off and explain how to make this work? Notice in my answer I said Stock Gen as in his question.
     
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  21. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    Ok. I have a stock generator (6 volt) with a 12 volt regulator (Ford) on a '35 Ford with stock wiring. It has been there for around five years with no problem. He is looking to charge a battery while the motor is on a stand. He has the generator. What is to loose? We are not talking a need for high amps.

    Second one. A 6 volt Ford generator with 12 volt stator (Ford). Been on a flathead in a Model A, no problem. To get more information, do a search. Has been discussed before.

    All newbies should become familiar with the search button, I have. Giving a list of part numbers and wiring diagrams is fine and if I had them in front of me, I would be happy to share but again, do a search, they are not tough to find.

    I used a regulator for a late 50's Ford when they switched to 12 volts. Wiring is the same as for a 6 volt. What else can I give to help?

    Some of this stuff really is not rocket surgery. ;)
     
  22. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,187

    RMONTY
    Member

    Looks like a decent compressor there Trevor! Go man go!
     
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  23. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Unsurprisingly the 49 truck radiator has a couple leaks. Since I can't use it on the car there's no real reason to fix it. I'll throw it up on HAMB classifieds for anyone who can use it and wants to come get it.

    Having an air compressor is great. This isn't quite shop grade but it builds air faster than my impact can use it so it's animal enough for me. Next big tool will probably be a media blaster.

    Still missing a lot of fiddly parts I need to really get moving. I can't start making up the rear spring perches until I get a rear spring. Can't put the front axle on the frame until I get the front perch pins and get the spindles on. Can't make up motor mounts until I get a cowl and grille...
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2020
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  24. Sculptive Design Co.
    Joined: Jul 23, 2018
    Posts: 77

    Sculptive Design Co.
    Member

    Hey Trevor, this might help with the rear hub situation. Cheapest option I've seen, I will probably get one too. Once I have the cash. Here
     
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  25. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I was able to get the torque tube off. I figured if I could get the drive shaft to rotate inside the torque tube it might break everything loose. I sat there for a little while trying to think of a way to do that, then I remembered my shiny new impact wrench.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Everything looks salvageable so far. You can really easily tell where the shaft had seized to the bearing inside the torque tube.
     
  26. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,187

    RMONTY
    Member

    You tool whore! New (to you) compressor and welder, shiney new impact.....whats next? A blast cabinet? ;)
     
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  27. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bear with me as I don't know what anything is called in this part of the car.

    I suppose what I am looking at here is a sleeve that fits over the drive shaft and a shorter shaft that comes out of the differential, and it is pinned to both shafts make them act as one.

    [​IMG]

    It would seem then that to separate the drive shaft from the differential, I would want to remove the pin closest to the rear end, then I could take the drive shaft off without removing the sleeve from it and set it aside.

    That pin has clearly already been removed and reinstalled before I got in here. I am assuming this pin is tapered, and the head on the narrower side has been beaten flat and mushroomed out.

    [​IMG]

    If I am correct and I need to remove this pin, how should I proceed? I'm not sure I could grind it off without nicking the sleeve.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2020
  28. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 366

    sdroadster
    Member

    The pin is not tapered. Grind, or chisel off the end that has been mushroomed, and drive the pin out with a small punch
     
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  29. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 604

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [​IMG]

    I nicked the sleeve a little but I think that's OK. Not looking so bad so far. I should mention the diff is apparently working fine, it turns freely and the unstuck side of the axle is spinning. Now that this thing is a little easier to maneuver around the garage I can hopefully get the stuck drum off.

    Best move is probably to replace all the guts of the brakes but without checking I'm assuming that will be kind of spendy.
     
  30. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,746

    flatford39
    Member

    Good job....sleeve is a coupling.
     
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