The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trevorsworth, Aug 4, 2020.
Learned how to weld on a Tombstone
Sure hope you got some kind of leads with it.
I did lol. The leads are brand new. Just took them off for transit.
Heading east today to pick up rjgideon's offered front springs. This morning I saw a Facebook marketplace listing for two A front axles, one dropped and one straight. Planning to swing around and pick up the straight one while I'm out that way if the guy answers me. What should I be looking out for on axles other than straightness?
Here's the picture from his listing.
The spindles and backing plates in the picture aren't mentioned in the listing... but if they are available I plan to take them too.
Just curious, why the straight and not the dropped?
I want the truck to sit high - I like the look - and have been planning to go with just a reverse eye front spring and otherwise stock suspension.
Youd be alot better off with a 32-36 front axle. Not a crazy drop but lower than the A. That axle is gonna look 4x4 even with reverse eye. Ive done it. To each his own its your car. You can always change it later. If they're cheap buy both and resell the dropped one
That dropped axle is not Model A, not even early Ford passenger car. Looks really odd.
Around here the going rate for good stock A axles is about $50. Check the kingpin holes for rust and wallering. Also make sure the thing's not too rusty elsewhere.
The dropped axle looks like a 46-48 axle. They're wide. 48 has the boss between the kingpin and perch pin boss
This may help with your axle ID.
OK, think I made a mistake. I didn't end up taking the A axle, but I took another setup that he had that he thought was a 32-36. It came with spindles and bones, but checking that chart there I think it's actually 37-41. I will probably strip the spindles off since I know I can use them on an A axle, and then sell the axle and bones.
I paid 120 for all of it which I think is fine, even with the busted perch bolt on the driver side. Wasn't worried about that at the time since I knew I'd have to replace it anyway.
Also got front shackles, kingpin bushings, and a stock top leaf.
You can certainly use those spindles. How are the threads on them. Good round back spindles bring $125 $150 a pair.
The threads are fine. I have nuts for them and they thread on/off just fine.
I'll probably swing back by and get the A front axle too. Should have bought it while I was there lol but I didn't think I'd need it.
Changing gears... forgot to mention I was able to get the C-clip off the drive shaft but haven't been able to get the speedo gear to budge.
Got the castle nuts off but still can't get the drums loose. Not a good sign for this rear end I think.
Your going to need a wheel puller to get the drums off. The shoes are probably rusted to the drums.
I wouldnt be surprised if that rear axle is fine. Seriously when I blew the gears outta my model a axle some years back I bought a 50 dollar banjo rear that had been sitting. I poured the water out of it, put gear oil in and ran it.
Drums always come off hard. Theyre on a key and taper and require a puller. Even if its been wet, if the parts clean up then use it. If a couple pieces are messed up replace those. I would be very surprised if what you have isnt fixable. A rear axle isnt one part, its a collection of many parts. Working with stuff this old you often have to rebuild/ repair or modify almost everything. You got lucky with that engine. Some of the other stuff is gonna give you a hassle. Thats just how it goes.
Oh yeah don't get me wrong I knew going in I wasn't gonna just be bolting this sucker up and driving down the road. Just saying the fact that it's still draining water over a week later is a little worrying lol.
I was able to get one of the drums off...
But the other side is not cooperating.
It’s shearing chunks off the hub and the drum is not even budging. This is the side that had the ant colony in it.
Tried flooding with PB, tried gently heating with a torch, tried tapping around where the brake pads are probably stuck with a mallet, tried all 3 at once, tried all 3 while applying pressure with the puller... nothing. I think the bearing in the hub is seized to the axle.
I haven't kept up with everything rear axle related but I'm sure somebody has told you your using a No Win style of puller. On top of that your probably turning the Axle itself into Scrap Iron. Your not the first person to learn a lesson from making a Mistake. I suspect you'll soon be shopping for more parts if not another complete Rear Axle.
I haven't learned anything so far except that disc brakes are a lot easier than drums. I think I understand how the brakes work now at least.
Other than the obvious tiny chips it's taking off the hub when it slips, what's wrong with this type of puller? How is it damaging the rear axle?
Fair question. My first observation is that you don't have the Nut put back on the Axle Threads to keep from crushing the first 1/2" of threads and closing up the Cotter key hole. You are trying to brake a tapper seal much like a very long Ball Joint Stud. Pulling from 2 spots and and using Heat causes the Tapper to compress in those 2 locations making it Tighter in those 2 spots and adding heat to expand the hub transfers same heat to the Axle Shaft making it expand also. It's a No Win deal. There is a special puller for doing that job and still having parts you can reuse when done. I'll take a photo of it tomorrow. Not a common tool anymore.
Thanks, that makes a lot more sense. Hopefully I haven't destroyed anything already.
I Googled pre 1948 ford rear hub puller tool. This is a photo of almost exactly what I have. I does a direct draw of the tapered hub section without making 2 draw points. It's also close coupled and stays true to Axle Shaft center line.
Installing the nut backwards to protect the Threads and key hole is a must.
Looks like I somehow dodged that bullet. I can still thread the castle nuts on both sides by hand without any snags or tightness but will definitely be leaving it on for the next try. Going to order the right kind of puller as well.
Crushing the axle like that didn't even occur to me but it makes sense. Good thing the drum gave first due to the cheapo puller I suppose. If I had had the right tool it definitely would have ruined that axle.
For any future readers I found this thread while looking for the tool... has a good procedural breakdown for how to do it right. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-ford-brake-drum-removal-with-krw-tool.343596/
I'll place the order for the special tool tomorrow and until it arrives, focus on getting the torque tube off.
And the tool gathering begins....I know you have a small collection of tools, but this hobby will MAKE you have a LARGE collection of tools. But that's ok with me! I like tools. I have gathered a shit ton of sheet metal tools in the past 4.75 years so when you find the right clapped out Model A truck body, load 'er up and bring her on over. We can fix her up and you wont have to buy all the tools needed!
Started tearing down the 37 front axle today. What's the trick for getting the kingpins out? I have the retainers out already. I know every Tom, Dick, and Harry didn't have a 30 ton press in his garage in the 1930s.
Could also use some advice on getting the speedo gear off the drive shaft. It seems like it's stuck real good like and I can't get any kind of leverage on it. C-clip is out.
I know nothing about early Ford shit but I have read enough to know you are going to have to have some machine work done at some point (reaming) whether you do it yourself or have a machine shop do it. Might start making friends with a machine shop that is Early Ford friendly. I'd think there would be a couple grey beards out there around you somewhere.
Before I had a 20 ton press I got the king pins out with PB Blaster or some other rust buster and a BFH. It takes a while but they eventually will break loose.
As far rear drums I use a large wheel puller that has (3) legs that bolt to the wheel studs and again a lot of rust buster. You can leave it under pressure over night and sometimes they pop off by themselves. That's the way some guys do the front king pins if the axle is still in the car and the car has a motor. They jack it up with a bottle jack with all the contact on the king pin and let the weight of the car free them up. Another way is to use an air chisel if you have a big enough compressor. Once they start moving it's all over.
A pretty good rust buster is a 50 50 mix of acetone and ATF. It works as good as the stuff you buy in the store.
I think I'm going to break something if I keep pounding on this thing so I'm gonna let it sit.
Once I kind of recover financially from working part time during school I will be able to start buying things like presses and air tools. Right now I am trying to avoid spending money that can go toward parts. If I can't do the job right now I can just wait, I don't want to spend $200 on a press and then be $200 short when a body comes up...
I will probably run it up to a local shop soon and see if they wouldn't mind pressing them out for me.
Separate names with a comma.