Technical ***July 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Already?***

If you are running a single it will support up to 100 hp
Ford made some on later v8s with larger venturies a little bit more flow than the original 94
J

 

Yes just a single carb. I wouldn't want to go dual unless I upgraded cam and valve size.

 

Out in the shop today workin on the next Winfield piece of the puzzle. Completed a small batch of all new SR accelerator pump check valves and the tool to install/remove. I had never really considered exactly how the SR pump worked… until now!

The SR check valve is surprisingly intricate. The main housing is ported to allow fuel to pass thru and charge the diaphragm, and also redirect fuel into the accelerator passages when flow is reversed. There is also a pressed in ring that captures a sealing disc. The fit of this sealing disk turns out to be a fairly delicate situation! Too tight and no fuel will get to the diaphragm. Too loose and the check valve will not redirect fuel to complete the circuit.


I also cut a socket into the special spanner wrench required to install/remove the check valve

 

Thanks! I'm about to tear into an SR and rebuild the pump.

 

First time my older brother changed a clutch, he put it in backwards. Mechanic at the local garage said people with more experience had done the same thing.

 

Lots of info and advice about running a Holley 94 on a banger in this build thread https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...vintage-hotrod-salvage-project.1231056/page-2

 

On looking hard at what I have.... is this the wrong pressure plate? When it is installed with the disc there is not a lot of play left in the fingers. If I put a straight edge (2x4) accross the top the fingers are almost an inch in when installed. I am also including a shot of the plate when it sits on the table. As this is a lightened flywheel is it possible this is for a stock flywheel?

 

Just measured the clutch fingers on on an engine here with the disc installed. From the surface where you have the 2 x 4 sitting on your cover to the tips of the fingers is 0.580". (To clarify, the finger tips are 0.580 forward from the flat rear side of the pressure plate.) Again, this is with the disc installed and the pressure plate mounted on the flywheel and torqued. The pressure plate in you picture looks correct for a converted flywheel. I don't understand your 1" dimension- that would mean that the friction surface of the pressure plate and the springs are compressed WAY too much. How thick is your disc?? the one in this engine is new and measures pretty close to 11/32" (0.343"). The overall height of my pressure plate from the flywheel to the rear most surface is 2.790"

 

Something is off the arms don’t look like in the right position
It looks to me the pivot points are too low in the cover like the fulcrum blocks are too long
These are the ones located under the 3 bolts shown in the last picture

J

 

My observations. I run a 9" long style clutch on my banger lightened flywheel with no issues. I have not personally used a 10-10.5" pressure plate, but I have read on several occasions that the pressure plates with the external counter balance as shown in your pictures cause interference and bad contact. Those counter balancers have been removed to get good contact.
Warren

 

. From fingers to the rearmost part of the pressure plate is .75". Other measurements are similar. it does also look like the clearance from the fingers to the springs on the clutch is very small .40"

 

I got one from Brattons about month ago, but they seem to be out of stock now.

 

at this point the stock flywheel and clutch are going in so I can drive while I figure out if I really need the lightened flywheel

 

This is a rare Harry Ricardo designed head for a Morris Cowley, made in Aluminum -
If you haven't heard of Harry look him up, he helped develop many early engines for higher performance.

It's flat across the top of the cylinders.
I'm not sure when it was made, I'm guessing quite early? They (The cars) were built from the early mid 20's.

 

After reading that thread I noticed the black burns intake was just like the one I have.....looked at whos thread it was, turns out it is THE intake I have, what a small world.

 

I think my dentist might have one of those!

 

Has anyone tried the Rich Fox maneuver of adapting a Ford Y block head to a 4 cyl. Plymouth PB ? I would like to try this but don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone has already done it and can tell me where the pitfalls lie.

 

Makin progress today on another thing I don’t really need for the Akron-Hed motor. Will get out the tiny tools tomorrow morning and finish the raised lettering detail. I’ve only got a couple of the tiny tools… if I break em both this thing gets the smooth look!

 

Do you need to just lengthen your clutch linkage rod?
Seems to me that I had to do that at some point in the past to make all the parts play well together for the V8 clutch. Also, the pads on your pressure plate fingers are threaded. You can run them out some to get them closer to the throw out bearing....again, seems like I've done that too at some point in the past.
My personal experience is that a lightened flywheel and V8 clutch is a modification that makes an A more drivable than any other....good luck

 

Only took 4 hours but the little .030” ball mill survived the whole thing! Will carve the back off tomorrow, then a crappy polish job to finish

 

Only now, can you all truly grasp the udder ridiculousness of this side cover project!

 

From you Kevin it is not at all surprising! Does it improve the performance at all? It's gotta be worth at least half a gigawatt!

 

I had the clutch pedal adjustment all the way out. It really seems like there is not enough movement. The clutch sat at the machinists for a couple years. I wonder if it is flat out the wrong one. I also have a stripped out hole on the flywheel preassure plate mounting. At this point I am very skilled at pulling the engine, so I will look at getting a burtz flywheel and clutch and change it over the winter.

 

I've had to lengthen the clutch rod...which is different than adjusting your current one all the way out
I use the Speedway pressure plate https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathead-9-Inch-Long-Style-Clutch-Pressure-Plate,25142.html with good success

..and it is my understanding it comes without the starter ring gear...just be advised

Good luck

 

We 've moved two starter ring gears from the stock flywheel to the Burtz 30 lb flywheel. Just involves a little heat. We have also used the Speedway 9" pressure plate. Depending on which transmission you are using, you may have to go with a custom disk. I think this only applies if you are using a T5 otherwise the speedway disk works. Just to reiterate, I really think your current problem lies in the pressure plate you are using.
Warren

 

Pretty sure the Speedway one linked above is actually a 9N Ford tractor pressure plate without the counterbalance weights and non-adjustable fingers. They work ok, but require extra pedal pressure to disengage.

 

That is the one I run. As stated above, the counter weights interfere on some bell housings. I find this clutch plate quite comfortable and my 80 year old legs know.
Warren

 

Haven’t had time to drive it yet… buy my rudimentary arithmetic skills suggest about .0000000001 gigawatt if installed with no gasket in a salt water environment. The advantage should be most noticeable below sea level!

 

oh hell, you get 3hp if you paint it farm implement RED!!

 

Did that on the wheels hoping for 3hp each… turns out I must have used the wrong shade of red…!